2006 liberty 2.8 crd not crancking and not starting

mrhemi · **Joined:** Tue Dec 08, 2015 10:46 am **Posts:** 180

jrsavoie wrote:

Both

Sometimes a volt meter will show correct voltage but the fault will not carry enough juice to illuminate a test light.

Correct, which is why the FSM spells out both methods where appropriate.

mrhemi · **Joined:** Tue Dec 08, 2015 10:46 am **Posts:** 180

"FSM basically wants you to do a few basic measurements and then take it to a Dealer!"

Not really. The FSM is written for the dealer technicians (oxymoron noted), not the vehicle owners.

Billybob · **Posted:** Wed Dec 08, 2021 12:29 pm

Yeah "Oxymoron" Noted

Hope OP gets back to us as to what year his KJ is...makes a big difference!

Landyfan · **Joined:** Mon Nov 01, 2021 2:49 am **Posts:** 18

Hi guys, thanks for the reply, Billybob I will go and check the VIN number and the other stuff to make sure about the yearmodel. Reg papers state 2006 but you cannot be sure about those.

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Landyfan · **Joined:** Mon Nov 01, 2021 2:49 am **Posts:** 18

Hi Guys, when I check the VIN number as was layed out by Billybop this must be a 2007 model. 1J8GM58557W551427

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Landyfan · **Joined:** Mon Nov 01, 2021 2:49 am **Posts:** 18

On Saturday I couls find someone with the correct software to read faultcodes and it states Transponder not reading. He checked all components and the outcome as stated by the autolec is that the immobilser section in the ECM are faulty, when the vehicle is switched on the one corner at the bottom are hot and the rest off the pc board are icecold.

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Billybob · **Posted:** Tue Dec 21, 2021 10:58 am

A new ECM has to have the VIN number programmed into it and the SKIS data for the ignition keys to be recognized. Probably only a Jeep Dealer could do that.
You could post your old ECM and chipped keys to a Dealer and get them to program a new ECM for you.

The make sure you have decoded the VIN correctly....does seem to be a 2007 model!
What do your License Papers say about the Jeeps age? Some Members here will have a link to a VIN Decoder Site which breaks down the VIN Number completely.

Not too many 2007s will be around so difficult to get any parts from a Breaker yard!

The 2007 KJs have the Throttle as a "Drive by wire" setup...known to be a bit problematic and difficult to obtain a used one. Should not be related to your cranking and starting issue though. You may need the help of a good Auto Electrician....unfortunately there are no Service/Wiring Manuals available for the 2007 KJs!

I have not seen a "Drive by Wire" setup...hopefully some of the Members here can advise you how to identify it and test/repair it! :wink:

Landyfan · **Joined:** Mon Nov 01, 2021 2:49 am **Posts:** 18

Thanks Billybop, the papers only state first registration 2006, not year model. Yes this accel pedal is drive by wire unit. Now for the big question were can I find an ECM except at agents, quote me about 30k all included

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mrhemi · **Joined:** Tue Dec 08, 2015 10:46 am **Posts:** 180

Landyfan, I understand your frustrations, "been there, done that" myself.

Please humour me on this next suggestion, you may have done this, but I have re-read your posts and cannot be sure. The following was the "eureka moment" for my CRD troubles.

Pull the ASD relay from it's socket. Place a jumper between 30 and 87 in the socket. This by-passes the ASD relay. Does it turn over and start? I know you said the ASD relay clicks, but I could find no verification of continuity through the contacts in your posts. if it does start, you have a faulty ASD relay. This was exactly my issue. The contacts were burned in the ASD relay. Replacement cured the issue.

Good luck from the other side of the pond!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Dec 25, 2021 1:19 pm

mrhemi wrote:

Landyfan, I understand your frustrations, "been there, done that" myself.
Please humour me on this next suggestion, you may have done this, but I have re-read your posts and cannot be sure. The following was the "eureka moment" for my CRD troubles.
Pull the ASD relay from it's socket. Place a jumper between 30 and 87 in the socket. This by-passes the ASD relay. Does it turn over and start? I know you said the ASD relay clicks, but I could find no verification of continuity through the contacts in your posts. if it does start, you have a faulty ASD relay. This was exactly my issue. The contacts were burned in the ASD relay. Replacement cured the issue.
Good luck from the other side of the pond!

That certainly is a good test,
but keep in mind, if it spins over and starts using the jumpered pins method you suggested, this could also be telling you the ECM is not satisfied with one of the many inputs it receives at to activate (ground/energize) the ASD relay.
Hopefully he has already checked the main power feed fuse to the ASD relay along with the several fuses that get power once the ASD relay is energized.
With the ASD relay unplugged and testing it's connections with a 12v test light or multimeter, he should have 12v at terminals 30 & 86 (key on or off) and a ground at terminal 85 (key on).

He could also simply try swapping the ASD relay with one of the other relays of the same size and see if it spins over and starts. This would test the relay itself if the ECM is providing the ground for the relay.

Low & High speed fan relays, or the blower motor relay.

Landyfan · **Joined:** Mon Nov 01, 2021 2:49 am **Posts:** 18

Afternoon guys, yes I did swap over the relays and yes I did tests with multimeter and it was spot on correct, I also jumped 30 and 87 pins but stil nothing happend except a buzzing somewhere in the engine bay. Thanks

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WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Dec 31, 2021 3:31 pm

Landyfan wrote:

Afternoon guys, yes I did swap over the relays and yes I did tests with multimeter and it was spot on correct, I also jumped 30 and 87 pins but stil nothing happend except a buzzing somewhere in the engine bay. Thanks

Is the noise coming from the starter solenoid/motor assembly?

Have you tried jumping the starter relay?
If not try jumping the starter relay with the key in the run/on position and see if the engine spins over and starts. !!!Be sure transmission is in PARK with parking brake is applied when you do this as you will be bypassing ALL safety interlocks.

Landyfan · **Joined:** Mon Nov 01, 2021 2:49 am **Posts:** 18

Hi WWDiesel

The noise sounds like a feul pump running, a buzzing noise when the ign is switched on, when you turn the ign off it takes a few seconds then the noise stops like something is switched off, when I remove the ASD relay there are no noise when ignition is switched on but as soon as I replace the relay you can hear it again with ign on, I did jump the starter relay and it crancks perfectly but dont start, I also jumped the ASD relay but still just crancking when I jump the starter relay. However when I put an external earth on the starter relay terminal 86 I can cranck the motor with the key but it dont start. That terminal are connected to the ECM when I traced the wire and I did continuity test on the wire it is still good. Hope this help for clarity

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WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Jan 04, 2022 1:03 pm

Landyfan wrote:

Hi WWDiesel
The noise sounds like a fuel pump running, a buzzing noise when the ign is switched on, when you turn the ign off it takes a few seconds then the noise stops like something is switched off, when I remove the ASD relay there are no noise when ignition is switched on but as soon as I replace the relay you can hear it again with ign on, I did jump the starter relay and it cranks perfectly but don't start, I also jumped the ASD relay but still just cranking when I jump the starter relay. However when I put an external earth on the starter relay terminal 86 I can crank the motor with the key but it don't start. That terminal are connected to the ECM when I traced the wire and I did continuity test on the wire it is still good. Hope this help for clarity

Terminal 86 at starter relay is 12v positive (HOT) through fuse #28. Earth grounding this terminal would blow fuse 28.
You probably meant you earth grounded terminal 85, which would be correct as that is the circuit that the ECM grounds to engage the starter relay.

If the ASD relay is chattering, I would swap it with one of the other relays of the same size like the blower motor relay.
Also check the supply voltages at the ASD relay on terminals 30 & 86, they both should have 12v battery voltage showing.
Check for a ground with Ign. switch in the ON position, on terminal 85 at the ASD relay. The ECM should be grounding the ASD relay if all requirements are met.

Landyfan · **Joined:** Mon Nov 01, 2021 2:49 am **Posts:** 18

Hi, I meant 85 yes, fises are all good, ASD relay dont make a noise, it just engages with one click, I did swop it around with other relay. All the voltages on ASD relay are in spec like the manual described. What I did find on the ECM if you open it and hold the pc board in your hand, with vehicle switched on, one corner of the board starts to heat up while the rest of the board are cold.

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WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Jan 06, 2022 1:01 pm

Landyfan wrote:

Hi, I meant 85 yes, fises are all good, ASD relay dont make a noise, it just engages with one click, I did swop it around with other relay. All the voltages on ASD relay are in spec like the manual described. What I did find on the ECM if you open it and hold the pc board in your hand, with vehicle switched on, one corner of the board starts to heat up while the rest of the board are cold.

So have you identified where the chattering noise is coming from?

Landyfan · **Joined:** Mon Nov 01, 2021 2:49 am **Posts:** 18

Morning, no ot seems as if it is a buzzing sound, almost like a mosquito, like a pump running but very soft, not really chattering sound. When you switch the ign off after about 15 seconds you hear a click and then all goes silent. I cannot trace it, there are no pumps or solenoids or relays in that region. When you stand in front of the vehicle it comes from the left at the back off the motor somewhere. I will try to make a video and record the sound if possible it is very soft.

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WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Jan 07, 2022 1:23 pm

Landyfan wrote:

Morning, no ot seems as if it is a buzzing sound, almost like a mosquito, like a pump running but very soft, not really chattering sound. When you switch the ign off after about 15 seconds you hear a click and then all goes silent. I cannot trace it, there are no pumps or solenoids or relays in that region. When you stand in front of the vehicle it comes from the left at the back off the motor somewhere. I will try to make a video and record the sound if possible it is very soft.

Sure you are not hearing an intank fuel pump running if it has one?
An intank fuel pump, if installed, and wired to the OEM wiring & relay, will typically run for about 15 seconds when the ign switch is placed to the RUN position.
or
It could be the turbo vacuum modulator (EVM) valve or the vacuum reservoir solenoid. Both are mounted on the top of the inner fender liner on the passenger (right) side of the engine compartment. Items 1 & 2 in picture.
Listen to them both closely and see if the the noise you hear is emanating from either one of them. The vacuum solenoid has been known to make noises when going bad!

Landyfan · **Joined:** Mon Nov 01, 2021 2:49 am **Posts:** 18

Im sure it is not the fuel pump, the sound is there as long as the ign is switched on but in the eng compartment not in the tank, there are not 12 v at the pump when ign is on. The vacuum solenoid is on top of the rocer cover but it is unplugged, before all this it was making a good amount of noise and plugged in or not it keeps giving a fault code. I will check the turbo vacuum solenoid it could be that one. Like Ibsaid the sound is there when ign is on and when you switch off it stops after about 15 seconds when the ASD relay opens.

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jrsavoie · **Posted:** Sun Jan 09, 2022 3:34 pm

With the pump running, do you get fuel out the bleeder?

I do not think the in tank lift pumps are flow through on fail.

I stand corrected. Next post.I remeber discussing the flow through on fail issue a few years ago and being told they were not floq through on fail.

Can't believe everything on the internet.

2006 liberty 2.8 crd not crancking and not starting

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