Front End Locker Question: Poll Results ETC added

Fulltimer · **Posted:** Fri Jan 04, 2008 6:07 am

When I get my lift on I will be getting a set of 32" tires dedicated to off road use only. My plan so far is ARB air lockers front and back. The reason for air lockers is the ability to turn them on and off instantly. No noise going down the road around sharp turns etc. Now the Dana 30a. That dreaded piece of crap up front. Lockers will increase the likely hood that I will destroy the Dana 30a, right? But I do want true 4X4. What is the best solution short of a solid front axial?

Terry

itsajeepthing · **Posted:** Fri Jan 04, 2008 8:58 am

peanut butter.

Fulltimer · **Posted:** Fri Jan 04, 2008 9:36 am

itsajeepthing wrote:

peanut butter.

I love peanut butter!

Terry

KJ04 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 04, 2008 9:45 am

Fulltimer wrote:

When I get my lift on I will be getting a set of 32" tires dedicated to off road use only. My plan so far is ARB air lockers front and back. The reason for air lockers is the ability to turn them on and off instantly. No noise going down the road around sharp turns etc. Now the Dana 30a. That dreaded piece of crap up front. Lockers will increase the likely hood that I will destroy the Dana 30a, right? But I do want true 4X4. What is the best solution short of a solid front axial?

Terry

The best solution we have at the moment is the front 3 9/16" aluminum differential collar to reenforce the area that breaks.

Eddo · **Joined:** Thu Jul 07, 2005 7:01 pm **Posts:** 1214

Yes lockers put more stress on the front diff, however they also limit wheel spin. Most diff failures occur from excessive wheel spin, so if you can limit wheel spin you might actually be better off.

MiniDevil · **Posted:** Fri Jan 04, 2008 10:17 am

What's the cost of them? I can't find an actual price list on ARBUSA.com. Site is way too difficult to navigate.

Video Guy · **Posted:** Fri Jan 04, 2008 10:38 am

Eddo wrote:

Yes lockers put more stress on the front diff, however they also limit wheel spin. Most diff failures occur from excessive wheel spin, so if you can limit wheel spin you might actually be better off.

Finally! Someone who agrees with me. I want to install a Detroit Tru-trac limited slip in the front for this very reason. Under my driving conditions, I think, additional front-end pull would be more benefit than rear-end push.

tommudd · **Posted:** Fri Jan 04, 2008 12:56 pm

I agree with those that say getting a locker for the front will help, unproven at this point but still makes sense after seeing jerbachers and have him tell me how it happened. With both front wheels locked less likely to spin and have breakage. From the way his looked you can tell that when it was spinning and then caught the gears tried to climb up causing the drive shaft/pinion area to go upwards, since there is no where for it to flex (mounted solid) at all something has to give in this case the case, with a vehicle with SFA and springs there would be more give allowing the diff to move around more and MAYBE no breakage

So yes to installing a locker in the front... ARB first choice, DTT second choice

itsajeepthing · **Posted:** Fri Jan 04, 2008 3:56 pm

Fulltimer wrote:

itsajeepthing wrote:

peanut butter.

I love peanut butter!

Terry

LOL sorry Terry I could not resist

I have not seen any "peanut butter" responses on the board for a while

Reading everyone's responses, I have to agree that limiting the wheel spin in the first place ?should? go a long way in helping to avoid the pumpkin explosions. For those in the know, would there be any situations with a locked front end where you would have to be particularly careful not to over stress things? Like in 4 lo for example, there is a heck of a lot of torque in the driveline..... this thread really has me thinking about locking the front.

Fulltimer · **Posted:** Fri Jan 04, 2008 4:10 pm

The thing is, I have seen a lot of people on here with lockers on the back. There are some that have both. It just seems that some people are hesitant to lock the front. It does make sense to limit excessive front spin. If you have both front tires in the air and come down hard it will happen locked or not but that won't be the case MOST of the time.

The collar would seem to be the answer, but we don't really know if it even works for sure.

Terry

tommudd · **Posted:** Fri Jan 04, 2008 4:25 pm

well any front diff or rear for that matter can break, Ive broke a 44 and didnt really have it up against much that time but things will break. But with that said I think with a locker, front collar and really watching what you are doing it should be fine.

renegadekj · **Posted:** Fri Jan 04, 2008 5:01 pm

I have to agree, if you have less wheel spin there will be less of a chance you blow the front diff. And in my opinion a ARB locker would work best since it is locked unlike a detroit true-trac which is a limited slip differential and would have a sudden lock when there is wheel slip. There are a few members that run the DTT and have never had a problem and also one i believe that has. But i have also heard rumors of someone cracking the front diff with a ARB. Fulltimer I just looked into the price of getting ARB's front and rear with 4.10 gears and here in canada it looks like it would run me about $3750.00 including labour!!!. Does anyone know a place in seattle that would do these tyes of installs? what size 32's do you plan on running also? Sounds like a very similar setup that iam lookiig at in the near future, just wish the made 4.56 gears.

Fulltimer · **Posted:** Fri Jan 04, 2008 5:15 pm

I haven't decided on any particular tire yet. I was thinking maybe some real aggressive mud design on a recap. They would only be on when I go wheeling. There was talk on here about a recap tire with a 2 year warranty. Something like that. Mounted on steel rims, probably with bead locks. Then run my 17" stock rims on the road with something decent looking in 32's.

I agree with the idea of the diff. being okay if caution is used. I don't plan on being a mad man but I also don't want to have to baby it. The one thing that sets me off is someone in another type of Jeep slamming on me. The KJ can hold it's own and I don't want to back down from any situation, within reason, on the trail. Reason will dictate what not to try.

Terry

pokefan · **Posted:** Fri Jan 04, 2008 5:28 pm

Fulltimer wrote:

There was talk on here about a recap tire with a 2 year warranty. Something like that.

That was me, that's what I just got for my KJ. They're doing great thus far too!

The company I got mine from has some that are more off road use. CLICK HERE Though I'm not sure they're as aggressive as what your looking for. I think they're tires are made with off road in mind more so than a DD.

OT
Hey Fulltimer,
I've got some friends that live down in St. Augustine. They own Gilrie Pools. I keep saying I want to make it down that way and visit sometime but haven't ever had the chance.

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Fri Jan 04, 2008 5:31 pm

A locker will put more stress on the housing but it doesnt put more stress on the part that breaks. The pinion area is the part that explodes.

I agree that a locker should help.

dloc_jeep_KJ · **Posted:** Fri Jan 04, 2008 7:37 pm

Eddo wrote:

Yes lockers put more stress on the front diff, however they also limit wheel spin. Most diff failures occur from excessive wheel spin, so if you can limit wheel spin you might actually be better off.

x2.. i think this might be true. good thought

Fulltimer · **Posted:** Fri Jan 04, 2008 8:49 pm

Pokefan: the pools look good.........the girls look GREAT! :twisted:

Terry

USAFCOP · **Posted:** Fri Jan 04, 2008 11:42 pm

I have had ARBs front and rear for 5 years now, with no diff explosion, and everyone on here seems to think I wheel like a mad man...

2006 KJ · **Posted:** Fri Jan 04, 2008 11:56 pm

that's good to hear USAFCOP.. when i get come cash i'm going to get a DTT for the front and detorit regular locker for the rear. not sure how this'll mesh with the 6 speed but we'll find out. i think it would help with preventing the front diff. from exploding.. more controlled and less bouncing.

jason thompson · **Posted:** Sat Jan 05, 2008 12:28 am

Just going to put out some food for thought
first I see more open diff rigs break then locked rigs
I also see more stock geared rigs break then rigs with lower gears and the same size tires
Now I also know that wheel spin is only good for mud so why would you let your tires spin where they can get good traction?
I know that the KJ has limited wheel travel but still choose a good line
EVERY one should know that the front diff is weak ,treat it as so and you should be fine

I firmly believe that the front of a KJ would be fine locked and geared
but get stupid with the skinny pedal and boom this applies to EVERY rig not just the KJ

Look at the rep of the Dana 35
garbage right? not really
31's or 32's 4.10 gears locked and drive like you have a D35 you should be fine
now 33's or 35's and you are asking for trouble

now I also know that a rear locker is better than a front locker if you only have 1
when you go up hill you transfer weight from the front to the rear so the rear can get more traction
lock it and you dont even have to spin to get up MOST stuff

IMO
TT front
Detroit rear
NO problems and the will work EVERY time as they should
now ARB front would be better but TT is a close second and the TT wont get a leak

Front End Locker Question: Poll Results ETC added

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