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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 3:35 pm 
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I'm not sure if a structure like that would help much because its the actual metallurgy of the aluminum which is causing it to be weak under high temp and the stresses that wheel spin will put on them. the only real option is to have a solid steel housing that can take the abuse because it can give a bit while aluminum will just give in under pressure and snap. I mean as "odd" as it may sound if someone had some of the equipment you could sand forge a new aluminum diff but have it be much thicker. the problem would be machining it.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 4:14 pm 
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What amazes me is no matter how many years we talk about this,
1) it will never be cheap to have someone make a steel one
2) trying to find someone to make a steel one will be almost like finding hens teeth in a pile of straw
3) Beefing up the aluminum stock one is still only and will only be a band aid fix
4) I say stop worrying about what may happen and enjoy wheeling until you break something, heck I have torn up 44s and 60s in my stupid younger days
:twisted:

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 4:22 pm 
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Your right Tommudd. probably the most logical fix is to find some place where we can get a large supply of replacements, do a group buy and store them wherever we have room until you break one so you're not trying to hunt down a replacement in a short amount of time.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 4:33 pm 
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Sean150 wrote:
Your right Tommudd. probably the most logical fix is to find some place where we can get a large supply of replacements, do a group buy and store them wherever we have room until you break one so you're not trying to hunt down a replacement in a short amount of time.
Your going to need a large # to buy,I'd say at least 1000 or so to keep the price below $1000 for a bare cast housing.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 4:34 pm 
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Sean150 wrote:
Your right Tommudd. probably the most logical fix is to find some place where we can get a large supply of replacements, do a group buy and store them wherever we have room until you break one so you're not trying to hunt down a replacement in a short amount of time.


why do you think my garage is so full of parts :twisted:

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 4:38 pm 
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wait what am I thinking, this is toledo. There must be some old KJs near the factory somewhere or in the back of dealer lots. Lets get a group together and go out one night and borrow their diffs. Jeep owes us that much for putting faulty diffs in our KJs lol. In all seriousness though there really isn't any good solution to the whole problem which is rather sad, kind of sad that there aren't any other older vehicles that would have parts that are swappable with the KJ.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 4:49 pm 
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Sean150 wrote:
wait what am I thinking, this is toledo. There must be some old KJs near the factory somewhere or in the back of dealer lots. Lets get a group together and go out one night and borrow their diffs. Jeep owes us that much for putting faulty diffs in our KJs lol. In all seriousness though there really isn't any good solution to the whole problem which is rather sad, kind of sad that there aren't any other older vehicles that would have parts that are swappable with the KJ.
The D30A is not faulty,now I'm no fan of it but when you push any axle offroad it will break,even D60's.The D30A was never intended for larger tires then 235/70's and the abuse some of use put them threw while offroad.I never had a problem with my D30A,no collar either,but the CV's where another story.I learned how to drive with the D30A so as not to blow it up,it's not hard to do and lockers really help.You just need to slow down.Ask any that have wheeled with me here in CO and they will tell you I have one foot on the brake and one just slightly on the gas going over the obsticals,slow and steady will always prevail over to much pressure on the stupid pedal and uncontrolled wheel spin.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 5:03 pm 
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I like to go nice an easy over obstacles, but is this still true with 33 tires,ARB and a D30A?

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 5:08 pm 
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ChileanKJ wrote:
I like to go nice an easy over obstacles, but is this still true with 33 tires,ARB and a D30A?
You will gernade the D30A with 33" tires,but after the cost/time of lifting and cutting enough to clear 33" tires and still be able to take it over the mall curb you could have done a SFA swap and not worry about it.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 5:48 pm 
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mm, meanwhile I wait until rocklizard sfa kit, we have to try something :D !!!

The only thing I don't like about SFA is 8" is too much for a DD.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 5:53 pm 
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ChileanKJ wrote:
mm, meanwhile I wait until rocklizard sfa kit, we have to try something :D !!!

The only thing I don't like about SFA is 8" is too much for a DD.


8 inches too high for a DD? I used to drive 37 miles one way to work every day in a F150 Ford pickup on 38s and also a full size Dodge van on 40 inch tires, bottom of the floor was over 40 inches from the ground on the van, those were my DDs for several years , 8 inch on a Liberty with 33/35s would be a nice ride :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 6:07 pm 
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Its obviously a nice ride, I know a guy with a nissan pickup truck and MB unimog axles and is really a nice truck but my 5 years old girl it is allways crawling to get to the jeep, imagine the same but with 8" +, then I get the selfish chat from the wife :lol: , well I think I can used to lift the little girl and put it to the jeep, mmm unimog axles ... mmm

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 6:21 pm 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
Sean150 wrote:
Your right Tommudd. probably the most logical fix is to find some place where we can get a large supply of replacements, do a group buy and store them wherever we have room until you break one so you're not trying to hunt down a replacement in a short amount of time.
Your going to need a large # to buy,I'd say at least 1000 or so to keep the price below $1000 for a bare cast housing.


I didn't pay near that amount for the one I recently got. Even with shipping from Idaho to Florida.

Terry

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 10:04 pm 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
Sean150 wrote:
wait what am I thinking, this is toledo. There must be some old KJs near the factory somewhere or in the back of dealer lots. Lets get a group together and go out one night and borrow their diffs. Jeep owes us that much for putting faulty diffs in our KJs lol. In all seriousness though there really isn't any good solution to the whole problem which is rather sad, kind of sad that there aren't any other older vehicles that would have parts that are swappable with the KJ.
The D30A is not faulty,now I'm no fan of it but when you push any axle offroad it will break,even D60's.The D30A was never intended for larger tires then 235/70's and the abuse some of use put them threw while offroad.I never had a problem with my D30A,no collar either,but the CV's where another story.I learned how to drive with the D30A so as not to blow it up,it's not hard to do and lockers really help.You just need to slow down.Ask any that have wheeled with me here in CO and they will tell you I have one foot on the brake and one just slightly on the gas going over the obsticals,slow and steady will always prevail over to much pressure on the stupid pedal and uncontrolled wheel spin.




Pssst! He lies! He's an animal out there. Gunning it trying to go airborne while crawling over the boulders. We learned to stay way clear of him. Crazy MoFo that's what he is!

:lol: :lol: :twisted: :D :D :lol:



If you could contact every KJ owner and mention having a company make a D30 (KJ model), we could easily get enough orders.....but....

Who's got that Distro list?

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