Couple of questions for those who know…

1)Their site says that theses are for off road vehicles only and may cause you to fail your emissions test. Does anyone have any experience with this?

2)If I use this is there an easy way to get back to the stock settings if need be? Or would it require a trip to the dealership and thus a voided warranty?

3)The site says that it “removes” the torque management. What exactly does that mean? What difference will I notice as a result?

Thanks in advance!

I don't know about points 2 and 3 but in regards to point 1 . . . unless you plan to move sometime soon you really won't have to worry about emissions. As of Jan 01, 2007, there will no longer be an emissions test in the state of Colorado. Just something to think about.

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Pete
L.O.S.T. #PC050458
'04 Timberland Green Sport w/stuff...
'08 105th Anniversary H-D Dyna Low Rider
OH-58D Kiowa Warrior

My understanding was that there would still be a test, but it would just require two successful trips past the mobile testing units they set up next to highway on ramps. The only change was that you didn't have to actually go to the emissions place...they just send your certificate in the mail automatically after you pass the highway testing. I believe it also varies by city and county though.

I talked to the DMV about this, last week I think, they said, yes, there is no emission test. but, not all the rules are out yet. I was asking becuase I have a 1992 saturn that I have parked and been working on for about three years. And now I am ready with it and was going to go get it registered again. which now, I will just wait until January. I was asking if over 10 year old cars would not need a test, and the word was, as of today, no, but all the rules are not out yet.

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THX DJ
My first Jeep, an 06 KJ 4x4 Sport, inferno red, Command Trac, Stock+;
All Mopar skids, Front hooks, Fog Lights, Window tints, Front & Window air deflectors, BFG A/T KO 235/70R16
Rear Class III Hitch and ever Changing.

Cool.

1) They list it as off road only so it doesn't have to pass testing. It's not supposed to be used on the road. If you decide to use it on the road, it simply may not pass an emmisions test as it will change the emmissions by changing the settings of the PCM.

2) You can purchase an extra PCM from Autocraft. Make sure they program your VIN to it. Send it to B&G to be flashed. When you get it back go to a good dealership with both PCMs and both of your keys. Switch the PCMs, which requires removing the battery. Have the dealership program your keys to the new PCM so it will run for more than 2 seconds. Start it up and wait for it to idle smoothly. It may take 1-2 minutes. Start out driving with a light foot. Then start driving it more aggressively over the next few days. It will program itself to your Jeep and your driving style. You also have the original that you can put back in if you ever need to. The dealership can not void your warranty for such a modification. They would have to prove in court that the modification caused the malfunction. They could then not cover that malfunction, but still could not void your warrantly.

3)The idea behind torque management is to cut back the power to give a smooth comfortable ride that can't damage the drivetrain. You probably notice it when you try to take off from a stop, during shifts, and from around 3000 to 4000 rpm. Just seems to not get the power to the ground. What is happening is the PCM is calculating the "Delivered Engine Torque" based on sensor inputs. The PCM is then retarding the ignition timing to reduce engine torque by a percentage that is based on the engine's torque output and the torque management table. Deleting the torque management means setting the values in the torque management table to 0%. This allows you to take off better, shift faster, advances the timing, and doesn't retard the timing when you start making too much power.

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June 2001 Liberty Limited 4X4
Frankenlift II Premium, Al's Upper Arms, 245/75R16 C Silent Armors on Moabs, RL Skink Super Sliders, Rear DTT, Riddler Diff Cover, Fastman Throttle Body, Profinish-Proglass Hood, Borla Dual Outlet Exhaust, TransGo Reprogramming Kit, APS Stall Converter, 4.10 Gears, B&G Chrysler PCM, Lots of Line-X, etc...

once again I learnt something new . Thx for the turtorial KY

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2005 KJ Sport 3.7L, select-trac, trac-lok, K&N air, Mopar skids, 245/70R16 GY Wrangler Silent Armours, Draw-Tite Class III Max-Frame Hitch Receiver, PIAA Xtreme White Plus bulbs. Built: 08/04.
Exhaust, lift, rims painted black, Duralined, roof basket, and Renny light bar to come!
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2305866
L.O.S.T. Member# 173501

Which dealer did you get all that done at Kylibby? They must of been a good one to know what they were doing and actaully do it for ya.. I was needing to get my rims replaced(peeling) and was needing to find a good dealer in the area..

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LOST KJ'S
Where are you going???
Current Jeep: 2004 Jeep Liberty
-Atlantic Blue
-Air Ride Rear Suspension ; OME/Rustys Lift ; Powertrax Locker ; Moog Lower Ball-Joints ; 245/70/16 Yokohama Geolander A/T-S's on MOABS ; Flowmaster 50 SUV
Lost #007082
http://www.cardomain.com/id/jeepjeepster

I only had the dealership on Nicholasville Rd program the keys to it. I was there for around an hour. If you have them swap the PCM, they'll charge you extra for pulling the battery. I got one set of rims that were peeling replaced at Freedom, but it took multiple phone calls, multiple trips, months, and an entire day without my Jeep.

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June 2001 Liberty Limited 4X4
Frankenlift II Premium, Al's Upper Arms, 245/75R16 C Silent Armors on Moabs, RL Skink Super Sliders, Rear DTT, Riddler Diff Cover, Fastman Throttle Body, Profinish-Proglass Hood, Borla Dual Outlet Exhaust, TransGo Reprogramming Kit, APS Stall Converter, 4.10 Gears, B&G Chrysler PCM, Lots of Line-X, etc...