I have been flat-towing my YJ but want to start trailering it. Can my KJ handle this? Should be able to keep it under 5000# or is the wheel base the problem?

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Crawl 4 the Cure

If you have been flat towing the yj.. You tell us if you believe it can handle the added weight of the trailer. One HUGE bonus will be the brakes that the trailer will give you. The libby is alittle short like you said, so it would be best to have a WD setup and anti-sway.

Be sure to put the yj on the trailer so it doesnt put to much weight on the libby, nor to little.

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When flat towing I almost forget it's there so I'm sure it can handle the extra weight and the braking would be an added bonus.
Have little experience with towing, what's "WD" weight displacement?

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Crawl 4 the Cure

It's a hitch that has two torsion bars that tie back into the trailer and the rigs hitch, pivoting at the hitch. There are chains attached to the bars and snubbers on the trailer. You put tension on the bars by tightening the chains using the snubbers for your mechanical advantage and to lock the chains. In essence your locking the trailer tonque and the hitch together while allowing the trailer to pivot at the two arms that are right along side the hitch ball. The weight is than distributed across the trailer and hitch through the pretensioned bars instead of as dead weight on the hitch. Your back of the rig stays relatively level. If you want you can almost pick the whole back of the rig off the ground where the weight will be carried on the trailer's wheels and the front end, which was a popular trait many years ago with the first big front wheel drive behemoths like the Olds Toranado and Cadilac Eldorados that had such mushy/wallowing suspensions.

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No one knows as much as all of us.

Yup, spoonplugger1 got it. It is just s setup that places the weight over the front and rear axle of the tow rig. Anti sway keeps the trailer from causing the tow rig to sway.. this happens mostly when other big trucks pass you. it can be a very scary thing and can cause you to wreck. Anti sway and weight distribution go hand in hand. Anti sway works with the WD setup.

Here is a great place to read and learn about this setup..

http://www.etrailer.com/faq/aboutwd.asp

http://www.etrailer.com/c-WD.htm

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LOST KJ'S
Where are you going???
Current Jeep: 2004 Jeep Liberty
-Atlantic Blue
-Air Ride Rear Suspension ; OME/Rustys Lift ; Powertrax Locker ; Moog Lower Ball-Joints ; 245/70/16 Yokohama Geolander A/T-S's on MOABS ; Flowmaster 50 SUV
Lost #007082
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you will break 6000# with a YJ and a trailer
I have found that most people do not realize just how heavy a wrangler realy is
My brothers YJ with 33" muds a dana35 rear a 5 speed and only 1/2 the tools I carry is around 4300-4500#
I have also found that a good car hauler with breaks goes about 1800 up to 3000# depending on what it is made of and what extras it has on it

Will breaks help? Yes but only so much
Can a KJ tow that I would not push it that far maby a CRD but a gas I would not chance it
also the wheel base will make it very very hard to control in a quick stop not to mention emergency situation
I like to point out that would be like a moped with a side car from a honda gold wing

Just wondering why you say it would be hard to stop? Most times if the trailer has good breaks, you can actaully stop better with the trailer.

I didnt know a wrangler weighed more than the libby?

_________________
LOST KJ'S
Where are you going???
Current Jeep: 2004 Jeep Liberty
-Atlantic Blue
-Air Ride Rear Suspension ; OME/Rustys Lift ; Powertrax Locker ; Moog Lower Ball-Joints ; 245/70/16 Yokohama Geolander A/T-S's on MOABS ; Flowmaster 50 SUV
Lost #007082
http://www.cardomain.com/id/jeepjeepster

not harder to stop harder to control when trying to stop
and they are very very close to the same in weight
I know that most folks dont want to admit to it but you rig probably dont weigh what you think it weighs
I know you dont belive me so I will say it now it is how I make a living
I work on ,service and calibrate, industrial scales and weighing systems wich includes TRUCK SCALES so I know what my jeeps and what most of my friends trucks/cars weigh

Rember that all the KJ has is a unibody the wrangler has a full frame also the cast dana30 is probably twice as heavy as the one in a KJ and the leafs on a YJ are way heavier than you think more than the little strut and upper and lower A-arms on the KJ
also the I-6 is cast not alum. and the physical size of that engine compared to the one in a KJ makes the V6 look small
add all that up and there is you weight

My yj is only a 4 clyinder and is under 4000#, around 3800# I think I guess I'd be pushing it with an 1800# trailer
I've been looking for a dependable and inexpensive tow rig but I don't really want 3 vehicles so I either trade in the KJ or tow with the KJ or screw it and get a cheap truck for towing and hauling junk for friends
I have no problem flat-towing for now but would like a new set up before spring.

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Crawl 4 the Cure

yeah 3800-4000 sounds right for a 4 banger any lift and tires along with wich rear end you have and breaking 4K is no problem
add the trailer to that and you are easily pushing 6K+
I would say trade the KJ and get something fullsize V8

We ,me and the wife, plan to get something new in '08 I saw that they will be making a grand with a 3.0 diesel that make 375 feet # of torque
That would be enough power to tow and the grand is big enough to control a trailer that big
What would be even better is that engine in the comander