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Rust inhibitor http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=19065 |
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Author: | Maximum Carnage [ Wed Mar 28, 2007 1:50 pm ] |
Post subject: | Rust inhibitor |
I’m doing some maintenance on my hitch and I’m trying to get rid on some rust in some tough to reach areas. I’m thinking of buying some Naval Jelly and trying that out. My question is has anyone used a rust inhibitor similar to the Naval Jelly and did you like the results? Any other inhibitors about there for rust that you found helpful? |
Author: | sleeve84028 [ Wed Mar 28, 2007 2:07 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
POR15 is a very good rust inhibitor but it's pretty expensive. Are you just painting the hitch parts or are you hitting some spots under the chasis as well? |
Author: | BVCRD [ Wed Mar 28, 2007 2:44 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
I was doing a 67 Mustang once, and got a kit from JC Whitney. It had something like 4 cans of stuff in there. One was an initial treatment, and the final can was sort of like a candle wax consistancy when it dried. It came with hoses and such so you could spray it inside the frame box. |
Author: | Maximum Carnage [ Wed Mar 28, 2007 2:55 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
sleeve84028 wrote: POR15 is a very good rust inhibitor but it's pretty expensive.
Are you just painting the hitch parts or are you hitting some spots under the chasis as well? POR15 never heard of it but I'll do some research. After I took the hitch off, I notice other spots under there that needed attention. So I know in the near future I will be doing more than just the hitch. Thanks for the feedback, keep it coming ![]() |
Author: | BVCRD [ Wed Mar 28, 2007 3:01 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Maximum Carnage wrote: sleeve84028 wrote: POR15 is a very good rust inhibitor but it's pretty expensive. Are you just painting the hitch parts or are you hitting some spots under the chasis as well? POR15 never heard of it but I'll do some research. After I took the hitch off, I notice other spots under there that needed attention. So I know in the near future I will be doing more than just the hitch. Thanks for the feedback, keep it coming ![]() Por is a great product. I know of several guys who were using it when they replaced the floor pans of their stangs. |
Author: | sleeve84028 [ Wed Mar 28, 2007 3:29 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Here's a link to the POR website. This stuff is used extensivly in the restoration circuits and on Mustangs... that's how I came to know of its existance. |
Author: | Maximum Carnage [ Wed Mar 28, 2007 4:03 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Any thought on the Naval Jelly anyone used it before? |
Author: | LiLredLibby [ Wed Mar 28, 2007 9:51 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Maximum Carnage wrote: Any thought on the Naval Jelly anyone used it before?
If I'm thinking correctly,Naval Jelly is used for removing oxidation from aluminum.I've used it on wheels just before polishing them,but then again,not sure I'm thinking correctly. ![]() Ron P.S......Just remembered it's actually for cleaning rust from steel also.Then you will still need to prime surface. |
Author: | valvestem [ Thu Mar 29, 2007 8:27 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Look for a rust converter in the body supply section of a local parts store like NAPA. You paint it on the rust and it neutralizes it and converts it to a prime-able surface. I used it on an old snow blower I reconditioned, the particular product I used was called "Rust-Mort", but there are many choices now. You can Google the term "rust converter" to find out more about it. |
Author: | welby [ Thu Mar 29, 2007 5:35 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
I've used Naval Jelly to remove rust from small areas on bady panels and bumpers in the past. It works fairly well. It's more for removing the corrosion from pitted areas that you can't get with the brush/wheel. |
Author: | snowsport [ Thu Mar 29, 2007 7:29 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
I googled "rust converter" and found some great info. I didn't know as much about painting rusty metal as I thought I did. Ya learn something new every day ![]() |
Author: | O_Dogg [ Fri Mar 30, 2007 11:07 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
P.O.R-15 is great Paint Over Rust-15 you do just that no sanding etc. unless you want a smooth finish. and do not get it on yor skin it says right on the can only time will take it off and it is true. unless you get a scouring pad and rub your hands near raw ![]() |
Author: | 1TDI4Me [ Sat Mar 31, 2007 12:07 am ] |
Post subject: | |
In the late 80's my dad used Duro Extend on a trailer hitch that doubled as a step when comming out of his truck camper. It was milky white and as it dried turned rust black. We were amazed at it's durability for several years. It was told to me that Duro sold it to Naval Jelly. I found it at a local Ace Hardware under the nNaval Jelly name and painted a fuel tank for the farm last spring. As expected, the rust turned black and I was pretty proud of myself. However, this spring I see the signs that it isn't going to be a long term solution as the tank has evidence of a dusty rust comming through. I may repaint it this year with the same stuff. Maybe I was too frugal with it. Maybe it's just not the same quality stuff my dad had. |
Author: | Kniggit [ Sat Mar 31, 2007 12:01 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
PermaTex makes a product called EXTEND works much the same way, comes in a Rattle Can. Also Wurth makes a product called Rust guard, its expensive, but its super strong if installed according to the instructions, I used it on some A-arms, and they are still purdy as the day I painted them after about 7 years, that car did see Ice, Snow, and sand so I know that the paint will hold up to standard road abuse. K |
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