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 Post subject: Help! Won't start
PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2007 4:46 pm 
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This is weird. I looked at my battery posts and saw that the negative was fairly corroded again. I started to loosen it, but then decided to go and get some stuff to clean it better and tightened it back up. Now when I try to start it, it doesn't turn over at all. Everything that uses electricity goes black, and the rear door hatch starts clicking for a few minutes. Disconnect the battery, and plug it back in, and everything works again until you try to start it. There is nothing extra connected, and I reset the ECU, but it still does the same thing. Any ideas

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2007 4:51 pm 
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Make sure the terminals and the battery posts are well cleaned.Had a simiular problem with my '84 F-150,it turned out that the positive terminal was corroded enough to alow a small amount of power through but not enough to crank.Just because it looks clean doesn't mean it is,use a wire brush and make the posts and terminals nice and shiny then try again.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2007 4:52 pm 
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Need to get that corrosion off there. It will let everything get power, but will not let a load go through it(IE starter).

Got any baking soda? Make a paste outta it with some water and brush it on there and then rinse it all off.. Should work good as new.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2007 5:10 pm 
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just pour coke on it and let it sit for like a 30-45 secs.....and then wipe clean.....worked for me and friend to start his jeep.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2007 5:12 pm 
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Disconnected the battery and gave the terminals and cables a good scrub with the brush from a gun cleaning kit. Worked like a charm. Thanks guys.

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Frankenlift II Premium, Al's Upper Arms, 245/75R16 C Silent Armors on Moabs, RL Skink Super Sliders, Rear DTT, Riddler Diff Cover, Fastman Throttle Body, Profinish-Proglass Hood, Borla Dual Outlet Exhaust, TransGo Reprogramming Kit, APS Stall Converter, 4.10 Gears, B&G Chrysler PCM, Lots of Line-X, etc...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 9:33 am 
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The cable itself may be corroded internally near the clamp end, if it is, then a replacement would be the answer.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 2:58 pm 
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coat your terminals and connectors with dielectric grease

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2007 10:43 am 
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Had the differentials, transmission, and transfer case serviced yesterday. Had them spray both of the terminals down, thoroughly cleaned, and coated while it was being serviced. I also replaced the bolt for the negative terminal because it was corroded enough that it broke in half.

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June 2001 Liberty Limited 4X4
Frankenlift II Premium, Al's Upper Arms, 245/75R16 C Silent Armors on Moabs, RL Skink Super Sliders, Rear DTT, Riddler Diff Cover, Fastman Throttle Body, Profinish-Proglass Hood, Borla Dual Outlet Exhaust, TransGo Reprogramming Kit, APS Stall Converter, 4.10 Gears, B&G Chrysler PCM, Lots of Line-X, etc...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2007 10:54 am 
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Nice!

is this on the stock battery?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2007 12:08 pm 
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Where do you get all your service done kylibby? The dealer on Nicholasville road?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2007 1:56 pm 
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Jeepjeepster wrote:
Where do you get all your service done kylibby? The dealer on Nicholasville road?


Depends. I just had this service done at the Valvoline around the corner from the office. Should have seen them all over it. Get the same reaction every place I take it. I've been to the dealer on Nicholasville Rd to do the PCM and keys. I got the Libby at Freedom on New Circle. Towery on Nicholasville Rd does my tires. Rusty at Cottman Transmission does my transmission and differential work. I've done tuning and dyno testing at Fast Enough and SR Racing. The nitrous and hood were done at Profinish-Proglass. The heads were machined in North Carolina. There's other things, plus what I've done myself.

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June 2001 Liberty Limited 4X4
Frankenlift II Premium, Al's Upper Arms, 245/75R16 C Silent Armors on Moabs, RL Skink Super Sliders, Rear DTT, Riddler Diff Cover, Fastman Throttle Body, Profinish-Proglass Hood, Borla Dual Outlet Exhaust, TransGo Reprogramming Kit, APS Stall Converter, 4.10 Gears, B&G Chrysler PCM, Lots of Line-X, etc...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2007 9:02 am 
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I had to clean my battery a couple of times but been busy working on my cherokee then yesterday it would not start even after brushing the stuff off so had it checked and it was only drawing 8 volts instead of 13 otherwise too weak so I went and got the interstate megatron. I wished my liberty would have a gage like my cherokee that would show me if the power is weaking before its too late.

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