LOST JEEPS :: View topic - Gearing question

I asked this question in another thread, and it never got answered...

so are the 4.10's the way to go? I have noticed my CRD is a dog now that I have lift and armor on now... I think the weight is peaked out..... and if I do go that route, when I get my ARB lockers, do I need those for the 4.10's as well or just order them for a D30a and 8.25??? or should i go with another ratio?

what size tires are you running now? If youve went up to 245 75 16s for example then going from the 3.73s which I guess is what you have to the 4.10s will make a huge difference in pulling power out on the road.

I found a 4 cyl. front diff for 400 complete so you may try that route as well for the front. Think I will get it ,stick it under the work bench and start getting everything else together, ie DTT for the front

You might have something else wrong,

I have 245/75/16 MTRs and I've lost 2-3mpg - but no performance - it's great climbing hills - I get to pass lots of people.
I've got factory skids - but an ARB front and Rock lizard rear bumpers - they're not light.

You have to do both ends ...well unless you want to see gears flying out from underneath your KJ :lol:

Tom

ATXKJ wrote:

Maybe so. I have the lift, I have full armor Skid row, and All J etc underneath, a 115# front TR bumper, the bigger tires MTR's. I just thought it was weight thing cuz, those slight grades are killing me, I cant get over 70

0311_DoC wrote:

ATXKJ wrote:

I can cruise at 80 (and I did on I10 from S.A to El Paso) and I can accelerate up any mountain pass in Colorado.

when's the last time you changed the Fuel filter? Air Filter? - how about clean the boost pressure sensor?
somethings wrong

JL Rockies - thought he had a problem when he put on 235/85/16's and it turned out to be a sensor on the side of the air box
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=23647&highlight=gears

the other thing - if you haven't changed the fuel filter - you probably should (at least once a year)
the additional weight may be requiring the engine to work harder than it did before - so the performance drop may match the modifications - however your diesel in good condition has plenty of reserve power to deal with it.
although you'll use a bit more fuel to accomplish it.

The annual filter change - is a recommendation for diesels - not for gas

Author:	0311_DoC [ Mon Dec 17, 2007 8:50 pm ]
Post subject:	Gearing question
I asked this question in another thread, and it never got answered... so are the 4.10's the way to go? I have noticed my CRD is a dog now that I have lift and armor on now... I think the weight is peaked out..... and if I do go that route, when I get my ARB lockers, do I need those for the 4.10's as well or just order them for a D30a and 8.25??? or should i go with another ratio?

Author:	tommudd [ Mon Dec 17, 2007 9:00 pm ]
Post subject:
what size tires are you running now? If youve went up to 245 75 16s for example then going from the 3.73s which I guess is what you have to the 4.10s will make a huge difference in pulling power out on the road. I found a 4 cyl. front diff for 400 complete so you may try that route as well for the front. Think I will get it ,stick it under the work bench and start getting everything else together, ie DTT for the front

Author:	JJsTJ [ Mon Dec 17, 2007 9:01 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Gearing question
0311_DoC wrote: I asked this question in another thread, and it never got answered... so are the 4.10's the way to go? I have noticed my CRD is a dog now that I have lift and armor on now... I think the weight is peaked out..... and if I do go that route, when I get my ARB lockers, do I need those for the 4.10's as well or just order them for a D30a and 8.25??? or should i go with another ratio? You can't go lower than 4.10's in the D30A and Yes, it will help some. If you are going to do ARB's, buy the gears and lockers and have it all done at the same time or you will pay for labor twice.

Author:	0311_DoC [ Mon Dec 17, 2007 9:05 pm ]
Post subject:
tommudd wrote: what size tires are you running now? If youve went up to 245 75 16s for example then going from the 3.73s which I guess is what you have to the 4.10s will make a huge difference in pulling power out on the road. I found a 4 cyl. front diff for 400 complete so you may try that route as well for the front. Think I will get it ,stick it under the work bench and start getting everything else together, ie DTT for the front Yea i have the stock Moab/ MTR combo on right now so yes I have the 245 75 16s. I have the 3.73 as OEM. Like I said shes great on the open road with no incline, but man going up a hill she, dogs.

Author:	KY Liberty [ Mon Dec 17, 2007 9:12 pm ]
Post subject:
You definately want the 4.10's. They're great with the 245/75R16 Wrangler Silent Armors I'm running. If you can find a front diff from a 4 cylinder, grab it. That will save a bunch of labor up front. That's what we did on mine.

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Author:	ATXKJ [ Mon Dec 17, 2007 9:56 pm ]
Post subject:
You might have something else wrong, I have 245/75/16 MTRs and I've lost 2-3mpg - but no performance - it's great climbing hills - I get to pass lots of people. I've got factory skids - but an ARB front and Rock lizard rear bumpers - they're not light.

Author:	jason thompson [ Mon Dec 17, 2007 10:04 pm ]
Post subject:
I have 245/75 MTR's as well and on a 3.7 gaser I have no issues YET I say yet because in 2 weeks I will be in the Smokies ,Gatlinburg TN, and plan to go up in to the park but I have no issues climbing the bridges that cross the MS river here at home and they are about as steep as most of the hill's on the hwy.s in the Smokies I dont have armor and bumpers but I dont see that being a huge issue I plan to do Lockers front and rear so I figure that the only extra cost will be the gears so why not I can go 4.10 and gain some performance and maybe an extra MPG or 2 I guess the point I am trying to make is if you plan to lock it just go 4.10 while you are at it

Author:	CD [ Mon Dec 17, 2007 10:05 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Gearing question
So can you do the 4.10's in the rear only, or do you need to change the gears in the front as well? Also do you need to change anything else if you change to the 4.10's?

Author:	0311_DoC [ Mon Dec 17, 2007 10:18 pm ]
Post subject:
ATXKJ wrote: You might have something else wrong, I have 245/75/16 MTRs and I've lost 2-3mpg - but no performance - it's great climbing hills - I get to pass lots of people. I've got factory skids - but an ARB front and Rock lizard rear bumpers - they're not light. Maybe so. I have the lift, I have full armor Skid row, and All J etc underneath, a 115# front TR bumper, the bigger tires MTR's. I just thought it was weight thing cuz, those slight grades are killing me, I cant get over 70

Author:	tommudd [ Mon Dec 17, 2007 10:19 pm ]
Post subject:
You have to do both ends ...well unless you want to see gears flying out from underneath your KJ Tom

Author:	CD [ Mon Dec 17, 2007 10:25 pm ]
Post subject:
tommudd wrote: You have to do both ends ...well unless you want to see gears flying out from underneath your KJ Tom OK OK OK.......... So why does every one always talk 4.10's and not a combo?

Author:	ATXKJ [ Mon Dec 17, 2007 10:35 pm ]
Post subject:
0311_DoC wrote: ATXKJ wrote: You might have something else wrong, I have 245/75/16 MTRs and I've lost 2-3mpg - but no performance - it's great climbing hills - I get to pass lots of people. I've got factory skids - but an ARB front and Rock lizard rear bumpers - they're not light. Maybe so. I have the lift, I have full armor Skid row, and All J etc underneath, a 115# front TR bumper, the bigger tires MTR's. I just thought it was weight thing cuz, those slight grades are killing me, I cant get over 70 I can cruise at 80 (and I did on I10 from S.A to El Paso) and I can accelerate up any mountain pass in Colorado. when's the last time you changed the Fuel filter? Air Filter? - how about clean the boost pressure sensor? somethings wrong

Author:	0311_DoC [ Mon Dec 17, 2007 10:38 pm ]
Post subject:
ATXKJ wrote: 0311_DoC wrote: ATXKJ wrote: You might have something else wrong, I have 245/75/16 MTRs and I've lost 2-3mpg - but no performance - it's great climbing hills - I get to pass lots of people. I've got factory skids - but an ARB front and Rock lizard rear bumpers - they're not light. Maybe so. I have the lift, I have full armor Skid row, and All J etc underneath, a 115# front TR bumper, the bigger tires MTR's. I just thought it was weight thing cuz, those slight grades are killing me, I cant get over 70 I can cruise at 80 (and I did on I10 from S.A to El Paso) and I can accelerate up any mountain pass in Colorado. when's the last time you changed the Fuel filter? Air Filter? - how about clean the boost pressure sensor? somethings wrong its just odd cuz it only happened right when I got all that weight. I have to drop the OD just so I dont get passed by everybody going up a grade. Air filter is new maybe 1 month old. I haven't done the others. Cant really say I know how to clean the boost pressure sensor. KJ has 18K on it. I can cruise just fine, its the hills that are getting me.

Author:	ATXKJ [ Mon Dec 17, 2007 10:41 pm ]
Post subject:
pressure sensor http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=22630

Author:	0311_DoC [ Mon Dec 17, 2007 10:48 pm ]
Post subject:
Cool .... Thanks.. Im sure that is a small piece of a big puzzle that needs to be taken out and cleaned.....

Author:	QuestMan [ Tue Dec 18, 2007 8:32 am ]
Post subject:
So............where is the fuel filter on a KJ? In tank, or inline?

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Author:	ATXKJ [ Mon Dec 17, 2007 10:51 pm ]
Post subject:
JL Rockies - thought he had a problem when he put on 235/85/16's and it turned out to be a sensor on the side of the air box http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=23647&highlight=gears the other thing - if you haven't changed the fuel filter - you probably should (at least once a year) the additional weight may be requiring the engine to work harder than it did before - so the performance drop may match the modifications - however your diesel in good condition has plenty of reserve power to deal with it. although you'll use a bit more fuel to accomplish it.

Author:	0311_DoC [ Mon Dec 17, 2007 11:18 pm ]
Post subject:
ATXKJ wrote: JL Rockies - thought he had a problem when he put on 235/85/16's and it turned out to be a sensor on the side of the air box http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=23647&highlight=gears the other thing - if you haven't changed the fuel filter - you probably should (at least once a year) the additional weight may be requiring the engine to work harder than it did before - so the performance drop may match the modifications - however your diesel in good condition has plenty of reserve power to deal with it. although you'll use a bit more fuel to accomplish it. Interesting seems like there were alot of you should do this.... I wonder what the end result was?

Author:	ATXKJ [ Tue Dec 18, 2007 10:55 am ]
Post subject:
The annual filter change - is a recommendation for diesels - not for gas - the gas filter is in the tank and it's probably about a 60-100K change out (I’m guessing) . The diesel filter is on the fuel head under the hood - easy changeout 5 minutes or so - because diesel tends to grow bugs and have water issues - especially if you have a fuel station that doesn't sell a high volume of diesel.

Author:	QuestMan [ Tue Dec 18, 2007 10:30 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: The annual filter change - is a recommendation for diesels - not for gas I SEE, said the blind man.......