Anybody changed their own diff fluid?

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Thu Oct 20, 2005 12:29 pm

I did the rear diff. on my wife's KJ last night. That job SUCKED, and having the gas tank right in the way didn't make things much easier.

I'm planning to do the front diff. on hers tonight. I hear the front diff. actually has a drain plug (what a genious idea!!). Does anyone know what size sockets I will need to remove the plugs??

DaveKJ02 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 20, 2005 12:51 pm

You can do it the easy way next time with a suction pump through the fill hole. The front is a 3/8 ratchet extension.

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Thu Oct 20, 2005 1:29 pm

Cool, thanks.

the1jferg · **Posted:** Thu Oct 20, 2005 3:41 pm

Is that how you do it?

I've been pulling the cover off, for a quick inspect. :shock:

GregB · **Posted:** Thu Oct 20, 2005 4:05 pm

What fluid did you use, and would you suggest any limited slip additive if you've got the trac-lok?

Guyute1210 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 20, 2005 4:09 pm

GregB wrote:

What fluid did you use, and would you suggest any limited slip additive if you've got the trac-lok?

Sorry I did an edit to be sure no one used the wrong diff fluid. jpzkj posted one of the correct recommendations. Please be sure to follow the user manual.

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Thu Oct 20, 2005 5:37 pm

No, u do not use atf in the diff, i used 75-140 syn b/c i tow. 80w-90 is good if u dont. I used jack stands under the frame to lower the rear axle. I jacked up the jeep and put them under the frame and let it down allowing the axle to got to full droop. The only place u use atf is the tcase and tranny.

krazz1e · **Posted:** Thu Oct 20, 2005 6:23 pm

jack stands like Jeepjeepster said, gets that fuel tank out of the way

But you can just pop off the rubber thing and pump it out, but it's really not bad to take off and put back on. Next time will be easier.

USAFCOP · **Posted:** Thu Oct 20, 2005 8:29 pm

to do the front, you will need a 8 mm hex head extension for the drain plug on the bottom of the front diff. And for those wondering the t-case is a 10 mm. It is like an allen wrench but fits on a 3/8 ratchet. I got mine at checker/schucks.

As for pumping vs dumping, I pop the rear cover, and let it dump, that way I can see the fluid and check the magnet on the bottom of the housing for metal shavings.

jpzkj · **Posted:** Thu Oct 20, 2005 8:31 pm

I use the 75 /140 Redline front and back....with powertrax in rear w/no friction modifier (trac-loc may be different) This is full synthetic fluid and works great for 9 bucks a quart.

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlubricants.asp?pvID=106&prodID=60&subcatID=20http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlubricants.asp?pvID=106&prodID=60&subcatID=20

If you pull your rear cover, clean the old sealant off the cover/housing and put new bead of sealant on the cover , let stand for 20 minutes, re-install the cover finger tight and wait another 10- 20 min before torque down you'll be good to go with minimum gooey mess. If you rush it....it's messier.

When you change the front make sure you don't over tighten the drian plug as it has an O ring that you don't want to tear up.

Good luck

skrracing · **Posted:** Thu Oct 20, 2005 9:07 pm

DO NOT USE ATF IN THE DIFFS UNLESS YOU WANT TO BUY NEW DIFFS.

broncsrule · **Posted:** Thu Oct 20, 2005 10:30 pm

Hey Ted, thanks for the tidbit on the magnet. I didn't know that little do-hickey was a magnet. I was wondering what that was!

DaveKJ02 · **Posted:** Fri Oct 21, 2005 12:23 am

the1jferg wrote:

I've been pulling the cover off, for a quick inspect.

Actually, I have removed the cover the first time I did it and everything looked fine. I recently used a hand pump to suck it out because I heard somewhere you should really be changing it every time your axles become submerged?? Is that true? After I had the axles submerged busting my KJ's cherry a few weeks back, I cheated and found this way very quick and painless

But, the fluid I sucked had no water in it.

Do you really need to change the fluid if the axles get submerged?

Renegade · **Posted:** Fri Oct 21, 2005 9:15 am

My 2003 has almost 50,000 miles. The last time I was at the dealer for an oil change (they charge me about half the amount of the local oil change places) they recommended that I have my diff and transfer case fluids replaced soon, stating that they were dirty. I've never changed the diff fluid on any vehicle I've owned, including my 20 year old Pontiac with over 100,000 miles and my previous '93 Grand Cherokee that I drove to 178,000 miles. The transfer case fluid was changed once on that vehicle.

So my question is, should I have this done? One person who works for Daimler Chrysler said he wouldn't do it for fear of screwing up the factory seals. You guys seem to know alot about this; so what do you say?

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Fri Oct 21, 2005 9:16 am

I got the front diff. done last night. It was a piece of cake compared to the rear. Thank God for drain plugs. DCX is probably the most stupid company I know for not putting a drain plug in the rear diff. Not only that, but the fill plug is just a rubber grommet! How stupid is that? No wonder ever Dodge truck I see has diff fluid leaking down the rear diff. cover! Well that would also let water in easier if you cross a stream. I guess when the time comes to do my KJ, I'll look for an aftermarket diff cover with drain and fill plugs that screw in.

Anybody changed their own diff fluid?

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