Going to attempt to flush my coolant...

BeepBeepJeepJeep · **Posted:** Sat May 10, 2008 11:31 am

Does the 3.7L have drain plugs? If so, where would I find them?

Cacher123 · **Posted:** Sat May 10, 2008 4:39 pm

lemme know also, gotta do mine soon.

BeepBeepJeepJeep · **Posted:** Sat May 10, 2008 6:41 pm

Cacher123 wrote:

lemme know also, gotta do mine soon.

I didn't find any.. What I did was disconnect the upper rad hose and the lower rad hose from the block, open the drain valve on the radiator, and put running water through the reservoir until clear water is coming out of the engine block. You have to make sure to keep the pressure up on the water hose for this to work (use a spritzer, or something). It may take a minute or two for liquid to start coming out of the engine block.

Once clear water is coming out of the block, turn off the hose and wait until water stops coming out of the engine block. Reconnect the hoses and close the radiator drain valve. Open the coolant bleeder valve, and pour two gallons of straight anti freeze into the reservoir. Water WILL start coming out of the bleeder, but this is ok. If it takes two full gallons and still is not full, close the bleeder and top off with water. The 3.7 holds 3.5 gallons of liquid, so this will allow you to get a near perfect mixture.

Bill

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Sat May 10, 2008 6:56 pm

A good idea on any cooling system is to only use Deionized or distilled water so it will not have any minerals in it that can lead to clogging the cooling system.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sat May 10, 2008 7:44 pm

There is 2 block drain plugs on the 3.7,they are towards the front,just under the heads.They should be allen head plugs,not very big at all.

Neal · **Posted:** Sat May 10, 2008 8:19 pm

JJsKJ wrote:

A good idea on any cooling system is to only use Deionized or distilled water so it will not have any minerals in it that can lead to clogging the cooling system.

deionized water is highly corrosive

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sat May 10, 2008 8:26 pm

Neal wrote:

JJsKJ wrote:

A good idea on any cooling system is to only use Deionized or distilled water so it will not have any minerals in it that can lead to clogging the cooling system.

deionized water is highly corrosive

I use tap water,never had a problem in any vehicle I've owned.Swamp water /stagnet water works the best,make sure you have some of the grit also since it plugs small leaks.Urine or pickle juice does not work so well,nor does beer,don't ask how I know :evil:

.

BeepBeepJeepJeep · **Posted:** Sat May 10, 2008 8:39 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

There is 2 block drain plugs on the 3.7,they are towards the front,just under the heads.They should be allen head plugs,not very big at all.

Thanks!

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Sat May 10, 2008 8:39 pm

Neal wrote:

JJsKJ wrote:

A good idea on any cooling system is to only use Deionized or distilled water so it will not have any minerals in it that can lead to clogging the cooling system.

deionized water is highly corrosive

Ok, I take it back...... DISTILLED is what you want, NOT DI.

The hard water we have here in Cali is known to clog cooling systems over time so I won't use tap water.

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Sat May 10, 2008 10:37 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

Swamp water /stagnet water works the best,make sure you have some of the grit also since it plugs small leaks.

Blue KJ in PA · **Posted:** Mon May 12, 2008 7:36 am

Neal wrote:

JJsKJ wrote:

A good idea on any cooling system is to only use Deionized or distilled water so it will not have any minerals in it that can lead to clogging the cooling system.

deionized water is highly corrosive

Not to start a war but...Deionized (DE) water is not corrosive...it is of a nearly neutral pH level just like distilled (DI) water. Both DI and DE water are types of purified water along with RO (reverse Osmosis) and HPLC grade or Highly purified and sterile purified water.

About the only that might be bad in most supplies of DE water or even in non-drinking grade DI water would be the levels of microbial content. There are usually no requiremnts for removal of microbial content unless the water is specifically meant for drinking. That said most DE water is not destined to be drinking water since taking out all of the ions makes water have no taste and most people say it "tastes" bad.

And yes...I am a chemist in the pharmaceutical industry who had to "clean up" the mess made when a superior answered an audit question inccorrectly because they did not understand the difference between the types of purified water... :roll:

http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/chem03/chem03923.htm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deionized_water

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Mon May 12, 2008 11:04 am

We tend to run DI water in the 18 Mohm range and it'll etch metal.
in fact we found a bolt that someone had dropped in a tank and in less than 24 hours it was 1/4 the original diameter and looked like it had been in an acid tank.

(of course we have a multi-million dollar DI water plant to provide several thousand gallons a day - and you won't find this stuff at the grocery store)

for radiators - I use distilled water - Texas tap water has lots of Limestone disolved in it and it'll settle out and clog the tubes.

Guest · **Posted:** Mon May 12, 2008 8:18 pm

BeepBeepJeepJeep wrote:

Does the 3.7L have drain plugs? If so, where would I find them?

Don't forget the petcock on the bottom driver's side corner of the radiator.

hehe, i said petcock

BeepBeepJeepJeep · **Posted:** Tue May 13, 2008 11:34 am

My gas mileage has gone up after changing the coolant... Is this a coincidence or what?

I flushed the coolant, changed the tstat, changed the rad cap, and replaced the upper and lower rad hoses...

Going to attempt to flush my coolant...

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