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Does EGR affect how hot the engine runs????
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=34915		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  JL Rockies [ Mon Aug 11, 2008 12:29 am ]
Post subject:  Does EGR affect how hot the engine runs????
As some of you might have read; I developed some engine issues on day 2 of LOST ECS. The scanner read P0299 and P0401 which based upon a search yields MAP sensor dirty or bad and the other EGR insufficient flow.

I drove her back from Oak Ridge, TN to Ft. Lauderdale today. I had a choice along the way, I could do the speed limit (70 mph) and drive with the heat on (really fun on a summer day) to keep the temp gauge out of the red or go 55 mph and run the AC but be a serious road hazard. The temp gauge really hated the AC being on let me tell you.

Driving around city streets with the AC on is no problem.

I drove all the way up there with the cruise set to 70 and the AC on and there was no heat problems.

The symptoms I noticed on the way to the trail was a wooshing sound when I hit the skinny and had no power going up hit. I also was blowing more smoke than usual. At first I thought it was a turbo hose came loose but the scan gauge told a different story. I did clean the MAP which was VERY dirty but the code came back so I am guessing it's bad.

I thought the EGR was just an emissions thing. Is it a complicated process to replace it? I know it's several parts that make the system up and it requires some diagnosis to determine which part needs replacing. It sounds like there's a major air leak under the hood when I accelerate.
Author:  mrkake [ Mon Aug 11, 2008 1:45 am ]
Post subject: 
The same thing happened to me and it was a blown CAC hose (aka turbo intercooler hose). It almost sounded like a vacuum cleaner under the hood. No power, lots of smoke. Not sure about the overheating issue. The split was actually under the braided loom that protects the hose from abrasion. I would pull those and inspect them closely. I believe that an EGR swap is fairly involved, but I am sure others could speak to this better.

We may want to move this post to the CRD section. It may elicit more responses from CRD owners that way. Mods?
Author:  JL Rockies [ Mon Aug 11, 2008 2:04 am ]
Post subject: 
No, I think I am good here.

The turbo hoses all seemed fine when we looked at them
Author:  Pablo [ Mon Aug 11, 2008 5:03 am ]
Post subject: 
Apparently you are not the only one, the other thread has the same thing posted. Do you have a stethoscope? I would try to find the exact location of your air leak "whoosh" sound. That should should shed some light on the problem... be it EGR, hose, bad innercooler, muffler bearings...
Author:  tjkoen01 [ Mon Aug 11, 2008 8:51 am ]
Post subject: 
yours being a CRD, things may be different, but with a gas engine, the EGR being stuck open will cause problems, especially at idle.

I'm surprised there is an EGR valve, I am not aware of any current production gas engines that have EGR valves. It was a bad attempt back in the early late 70's early 80's to reduce emissions.
Author:  VTNomad [ Mon Aug 11, 2008 9:14 am ]
Post subject: 
Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) is a nitrogen oxide (NOx, including NO, NO2 and N2O) emissions reduction technique. However, partculate emissions are increased. So basically, less haze more smoke.

5-15% of exhaust gases are recirculated to the intake, which decreases the efficiency, and power in gas engines. In diesel engines efficiency is increased during the power stroke, but peak power is decreased. EGR is typically not used during idling and during times of high output.

In almost all cases, a disabled EGR system will cause the car to fail an emissions test, and may cause the EGR passages in the cylinder head and intake manifold to become blocked with carbon deposits, necessitating extensive engine disassembly for cleaning.

But your vehicle's computer expects it, and compensates for it and any changes your computer can't account for can affect efficiency and power.

So, with no EGR in a diesel engine (and without taking the computer into account), you'll probably take a hit on your mpg's, but see a little hp and torque gain during average driving. I'd get it fixed ASAP, but I wouldn't be freaking out about it. You shouldn't see any short term damage, but there could be long term damage.
Author:  JL Rockies [ Mon Aug 11, 2008 12:03 pm ]
Post subject: 
Based upon some research; higher operating temps can be a symptom of EGR issues.

I drove the KJ over to the dealer today still dirty with LOST ECS. The service guy came out and announced to the world; "now that's a real Jeep!"

I have a Car Max extended warranty on it; I hope they don't come up with an excuse to not have to pay.
Author:  RespectMyLibertay [ Mon Aug 11, 2008 4:14 pm ]
Post subject: 
A little off topic, but
I helped a friend replace an EGR valve on his girlfriend's Saturn, some model from the late 90s.
Author:  JL Rockies [ Mon Aug 11, 2008 7:53 pm ]
Post subject: 
Dealer wants $1450. Of course, the EGR is not covered under my extended warranty. My AC condenser fan is bad and the warranty company authorized $400 for the repair. The tech is looking at this ARB bumper and wants $500 to remove and reinstall it to repair the fan. They want $770 P&L for the EGR valve.

I told them I would pay them the $100 diagnostic fee and bring the Jeep back without the bumper. I wish I knew how to replace the EGR myself, I could save some cash.

All in all, an expensive weekend.
Author:  dieselenthusiast [ Tue Aug 12, 2008 12:53 am ]
Post subject: 
Get this thread moved to the diesel section and you will get all kinds of answers.
Author:  JL Rockies [ Tue Aug 12, 2008 6:59 pm ]
Post subject: 
Actually, I would get a lot of fire and brimstone about the poor design. I find calmer head prevail here and I kinda answered my own question.
Author:  JL Rockies [ Tue Aug 12, 2008 7:25 pm ]
Post subject: 
As long as the planet is still spinning and I can draw oxygen into my lungs, I am awesome. :D
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