I jacked up my rear end and put my hands on the wheel and felt slack. I believe this is the grinding noise I am hearing up to 35mph. I believe it is my my wheel bearings. I have replaced live axle bearings before and they seemed easy. What do I have to do to replace the bearings in my jeep? Are any special tools needed?

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-Recently purchased 02blue jeep liberty limited 4x4 w/ 112,000miles
-01Silverado HD Durmax/Allison Twin Turbo

When I did my rear axle bearings I used a slide hammer to get the bearings out and to put the new bearings in I used a custom tool but it basically just looks like a half of a maglite... Banged the bearing in and then used a hammer and a block of wood to get the seals in...

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Have fun out there.

2003 Cactus Green Renegade w/ NP231 & NV3550
Al's 4th Gen UCAs
Custom 3.5" Lift
Rear DTT
Spidertraxed 245/75/16 Maxxis Bighorns

Axle bearings are the outer most bearings in a straight axle(like the 8.25),if you've done axle bearings before then it's the same for the 8.25 in the KJ,like beepbeepjeepjeep said,remove axle,remove axle seal,use slide hammer to remove axle bearing,pound in new axle bearing(can use the special tool or a large socket),put in new axle seal,install axle,and your done.


There are no wheel bearings in a rear axle unless it is a full floating axle(like a C14 bolt).

if it is not a live axle what would cause the slack by grabbing the wheel?

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-Recently purchased 02blue jeep liberty limited 4x4 w/ 112,000miles
-01Silverado HD Durmax/Allison Twin Turbo

The 8.25 is a live axle,just not a full floating axle.The 8.25 uses axle bearings to support the axles and the axles bear the weight of the vehicle and tranfer power.In a full floating axle(like the C14 bolt) the axle has a spindle on the end of it in which there are wheel bearings that support the weight of the vehicle and the axle only transfers power and does not support any weight.

If you have slop in the ends of a 8.25 you have bad axle bearings or loose lugnuts.If there is slack by pulling straight out and in then you have a worn center pin in the carrier.

there is slop and the bearings were purchased today for 69bucks. Anything i need to know before changing it out?

To revive and old thread (since the topic is correct), I had a local driveline shop check out a suspicious noise I'm hearing and they think one of my rear axle bearing is going out (not surprising for 89k miles). They recommended replacing both and said they'd check the axles for balance and round on their lathe while they have things opened up. The mgr said they typically use Timken unless the manufacturer or customer wants something different.

So, I'm checking the estimate and the shop labor rate is a little high, but not unreasonable for a good specialty shop (i.e. no more per labor hour than most dealer shops would charge for....any work).

The question is the only non-consumable item on the estimate is an "axle beading and seal" and the part is about $15 more expensive (per side) than the TRP1559TV timken at the local autozone (or summit, etc.). Is there something else bundled up in that cost, like a tube seal or are they just estimating significantly more than retail for the only replacement part that's needed on the job?

Dan

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2005 Silver CRD Limited
245/75R16 GoodYear Duratracs
Fumoto drain | ProVent CCV Filter
Stanadyne FM100 filter | Cummins fuel pump
GDE Eco | SEGR | BoulderBars | FrankenLift | Frankenskids