need some code breaking

David Jr · **Posted:** Wed Jul 08, 2009 10:03 pm

P1299 and P0340.

The engine has trouble idling and there's a bad smell too.

KJ Willy · **Posted:** Wed Jul 08, 2009 10:16 pm

All this from google:

P1299 Vacuum Leak Found (IAC Fully Seated)

P1299 Cylinder Head Over Temperature Protection Active
Check coolant level

A code P0340 could mean one or more of the following has happened:

•a wire or connector in the circuit could be grounded/shorted/broken
•the camshaft position sensor may have failed
•the PCM may have failed
•there exists an open circuit
•the crankshaft position sensor may have failed
Possible SolutionsWith a P0340 OBD-II trouble code
, diagnosis can be tricky at times. Here are some things to try:

•Visually inspect all the wiring and connectors in the circuit
•Check for continuity in the circuit wiring
•Check the operation (voltage) of the camshaft position sensor
•Replace the camshaft position sensor as required
•Check the crankshaft position circuit as well
•Replace circuit wiring and/or connectors as required
•Diagnose/replace the PCM as required

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Wed Jul 08, 2009 10:29 pm

As per Chrysler OBDII code list..............

P0340-Camshaft position sensor circuit A(bank 1 or single sensor).

P1299-Vacuum leak detected,IAC fully seated).

David Jr · **Posted:** Thu Jul 09, 2009 1:21 pm

Thanks alot guys. Both codes vanished at the same time :shock:

. Problems solved and Libby back to normal (whatever that may be).

David Jr · **Posted:** Thu Jul 09, 2009 9:49 pm

Problem NOT solved!!! The cam sensor was replaced. Jeep died on the road, got it home. then it died in the yard several times but got no codes at all. Tried the ASD relay, no changes. i'm thinking fuel pump or bad connection now. BTW what is the operating voltage of the sensor? I got 5.16 volts on both sides of the connector to the cam sensor.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Jul 09, 2009 9:53 pm

David Jr wrote:

Problem NOT solved!!! The cam sensor was replaced. Jeep died on the road, got it home. then it died in the yard several times but got no codes at all. Tried the ASD relay, no changes. i'm thinking fuel pump or bad connection now. BTW what is the operating voltage of the sensor? I got 5.16 volts on both sides of the connector to the cam sensor.

You got a bad cam sensor,got it at advance auto didn't you :wink:

.Get engine sensors like a cam sensor only from a dealer,worth every penny more then the cheap ones.

David Jr · **Posted:** Thu Jul 09, 2009 10:52 pm

Yes i got it at Advanced. How did you know? :shock:

Are they that screwed up? It shouldn't make a difference.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Fri Jul 10, 2009 6:59 am

David Jr wrote:

Yes i got it at Advanced. How did you know? :shock:

Are they that screwed up? It shouldn't make a difference.

Common problem with advance auto engine sensors,they don't work 90% of the time even when brand new.

lil black liberty · **Posted:** Fri Jul 10, 2009 9:11 am

Chalk that down with Pinon Seals too there TJ!

David Jr · **Posted:** Fri Jul 10, 2009 12:32 pm

It's the Crankshaft sensor

. And it's frozen to the block :evil:

. The pan will have to come down to get to this one :evil:

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Fri Jul 10, 2009 9:08 pm

David Jr wrote:

It's the Crankshaft sensor

. And it's frozen to the block :evil:

. The pan will have to come down to get to this one :evil:

Well at least you now know what sensor to replace.You don't want to know how much work trying to remove the oil pan on a 3.7 V-6 KJ will be,but if you must the engine needs to be pulled or the engine needs to be supported from above and the cradle needs to be dropped to remove the oil pan.

David Jr · **Posted:** Fri Jul 10, 2009 10:49 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

David Jr wrote:

It's the Crankshaft sensor

. And it's frozen to the block :evil:

. The pan will have to come down to get to this one :evil:

Well at least you now know what sensor to replace.You don't want to know how much work trying to remove the oil pan on a 3.7 V-6 KJ will be,but if you must the engine needs to be pulled or the engine needs to be supported from above and the cradle needs to be dropped to remove the oil pan.

Engine is supported and cradle dropped. That was the easy stuff, my dad and i have lots of experience in this area. The hard part is going to be getting that frakkin' crank sensor out :evil:

. Tried several dealers in the area and made lots of calls, nobody has a replacement sensor, it'll be monday earliest before i can get one. I'll be driving my Mom's 300 Hemi C in the meantime.

David Jr · **Posted:** Wed Jul 15, 2009 5:38 pm

My Libby is back on the road

. Part of me wishes i had taken some pics for a tech article, but I had to do the work at night after i got home from work.

hrogi · **Posted:** Wed Jul 15, 2009 7:00 pm

That is good news.

So was it just the 1 part.

or did the hole block freeze?
I was a bit confused...

David Jr · **Posted:** Wed Jul 15, 2009 8:25 pm

hrogi wrote:

That is good news.

So was it just the 1 part.

or did the hole block freeze?
I was a bit confused...

The sensor was frozen in it's hole in the block.

Guest · **Posted:** Wed Jul 15, 2009 11:00 pm

David Jr wrote:

It's the Crankshaft sensor

. And it's frozen to the block :evil:

Dude, it's summer...shouldn't it have thawed by now?

David Jr · **Posted:** Thu Jul 16, 2009 6:37 pm

ThunderbirdJunkie wrote:

David Jr wrote:

It's the Crankshaft sensor

. And it's frozen to the block :evil:

Dude, it's summer...shouldn't it have thawed by now?

I've been assuming everybody here has enough mechanical know-how to know what i was talking about. The sensor would not come out by conventional means (Grab, Twist, and pull). It would not budge one bit. So radical surgery was performed.

need some code breaking

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