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Brakes and rotors
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=5367		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  rocketjocky [ Mon Jan 30, 2006 10:42 am ]
Post subject:  Brakes and rotors
Ok so I have a 02' renegade with 78,000 miles. My brakes are making fun noises and if I am driving slow (i.e. less than 20 mph) it just starts to pull to the side making the noises. I went to check and the pads are good a little warn and the rotors are slightly gouged. I took the rotors to be turned since everything else looks good. The shop said they can’t turn the rotors as they are too thin. My problem is this is the second set of rotors. I replaced the rotors and pads about 40,000 miles ago.
I’ve had several other cars that have had a lot higher mileage with out changing rotors or turning them for that matter. But at 78,000 miles my KJ is ready for her third set. I am using the ceramic metallic oem pads and bought the same when I replaced them. I use the ceramic type pads as I understand them to give better stopping power and less brake dust. Which the wheel making the noise is also showing considerable more brake dust now.
I tow once in awhile normally it’s a trailer that the KJ doesn’t know is back there (it’s 1000 lb max load).
Is there anyone else with a similar problem?
Should I switch to the cheaper pads?
If I switch how much braking am I going to lose, I love my KJ but the brakes aren’t the best I’ve ever had.
I even thought about the cross drilled and vented rotors but I thought these were to help with against being warped and cooling not wear.

Thanks

Rocketjocky
Author:  sleeve84028 [ Mon Jan 30, 2006 11:16 am ]
Post subject: 
Lot's of good brake information on this forum. The first thing that we should mention is that the Liberty is very heavy. Trying to stop all of that weight plays a critical role in the lifespan of your brake components. I live in the city and do a lot of stop and go + I tow a trailer in the summers with my boat. My first brake job came at 30,000 miles. Both rotors were replaced and I switched to the ceramic pads.

The reason that you are noticing more dust is becuase the pads are reaching the end of their usable lifespan. As they wear down, the packing of the pad becomes softer and this causes the excess brake dust. A hint of a brake job coming soon.

I'd recommend staying with the ceramic pads and replacing the rotors. Stick with a solid disk... Let me find a different post to explain why.

Edit: Here is one of the posts: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... ght=brakes
Author:  rocketjocky [ Mon Jan 30, 2006 12:18 pm ]
Post subject: 
I understand that the KJ is much heavier than the other cars I've had but 30,000 to 40,000 miles, thats almost as bad as the milage is on our KJs. That means about $100 a year for brakes for me, as I drive almost 30,000 miles a year. :cry: I'm not sure I agree with the thought of the dust coming from the pads being past their life because they are less than half worn. although I have not been able to come up with a better solution.
I did read the other post (the one you showed me and at least one other) I'm just not coming up with a solution I can say with out any doubt "yup thats the answer".
One question I do have for you is are you running ceramic metalic or just pure ceramic pads? I beleive I'm running the ceramic metalic as thats what I was told was on it from the factory. still trying to decide which to get this time.

Thanks for your input
Author:  sleeve84028 [ Mon Jan 30, 2006 12:31 pm ]
Post subject: 
I run a pure ceramic pad. If I remember, I picked them up from CarQuest for around $70.00 x 2 for both sets. I've got about 10,000 miles on my Liberty since the last brake job and haven't noticed any excessive rotor wear thus far. Maybe for your situation (lots of miles annually) it wouldn't be bad to try switching to some cheap-o pads to see if you can make the rotors last longer. The rotors on the Liberty are pretty thick.

I don't know if the pads from the factory are metalic / cermaic or just straight metalic...
Author:  ManicMechanicJoe [ Mon Jan 30, 2006 12:52 pm ]
Post subject: 
I think the pads are semi-metallic. A drilled or slotted rotor give gases that built up from the heat of braking a place to escape which helps shed heat faster. You still build up heat-it just goes away quicker...
Author:  rocketjocky [ Mon Jan 30, 2006 12:58 pm ]
Post subject: 
The other problem with the drilled and vented rotors is that I've been told you can not turn them even if they are think enough... not that the last two sets have been thick enough too trun
Author:  Roachman3700 [ Mon Jan 30, 2006 1:48 pm ]
Post subject: 
I have been told that about the drilled and slotted rotors and all info that I could find says that that is just a myth. All you have to do is tell the shop to put it on soft cut and it turns just fine. Takes a little longer because you are doing it softer but they can be turned is what I have found. Now I have only had my Rotors and Ceramic pads for 3 weeks so we will see when the time comes :).

Later,
Dan
Author:  ManicMechanicJoe [ Mon Jan 30, 2006 2:51 pm ]
Post subject: 
you can turn drilled or slotted rotors...the cutting bit just skips right over the indentation...
Author:  Jeepjeepster [ Mon Jan 30, 2006 3:19 pm ]
Post subject: 
My brakes are doing great but im only at 17k. Rotors are not warped and the pads dont seem to be half worn. I would really like the power slot's but they are $100 a piece! Then the pads are $70. Ill see when the times comes.
Author:  MikeD0106 [ Wed Feb 01, 2006 4:09 am ]
Post subject: 
I didn't even have to replace my 1st set of pads until about 55k miles. I would suggest you make sure you don't have some type of defect or something somewhere in the brakes. Over time I had them checked several times, but never had to replace anything until 55k.
Author:  blackjeep [ Wed Feb 01, 2006 5:54 am ]
Post subject: 
MikeD0106 wrote:
I didn't even have to replace my 1st set of pads until about 55k miles. I would suggest you make sure you don't have some type of defect or something somewhere in the brakes. Over time I had them checked several times, but never had to replace anything until 55k.


remember, it depends how much braking you do, not how much miles you put on. i can get 35K from mine where my uncle can get 200K from his. also manual vs automatic could make a big difference as well. depends how and where it's driven.
Author:  PCTim [ Wed Feb 01, 2006 10:22 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Brakes and rotors
rocketjocky wrote:
I’ve had several other cars that have had a lot higher mileage with out changing rotors or turning them for that matter. But at 78,000 miles my KJ is ready for her third set.


You have to remember that on older cars, the rotors were designed to be turned. They were thicker, cost more and required you to repack the bearings when changing them (hubs were part of the rotor). Nowadays, they are designed to be throw-aways. $25-$30 each, throw them away when you are done. I had to start doing this on my old Buick (91) as well as my wife's (99). Didn't make sense at first, but, if I change them every other year, at $30 each, it's not that bad. Just my $.02

Good luck!
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