hockey puck bump stop

bwtucker · **Posted:** Sun Jan 09, 2011 12:32 am

I ordered OME medium duty springs for the front and back and I ordered the nitrocharger sports to go with them. I'm going to do the hockey puck bump stop for the back. How thick is the metal that you drill through? I can get stainless steel bolts at work and I want to grab the correct length. Thanks for any help.

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 09, 2011 4:32 am

it's about the thickness of a standard washer, pretty thin

if you test fit it and it doesn't quite have the thread showing you want, you can always counter sink the head of the bolt into the puck

DirtyKK · **Posted:** Sun Jan 09, 2011 4:41 am

get a bolt about 1/2" longer then you are adding in bumpstop. this leaves room to go through the spring perch and add a nut and lock washer on the bottom.

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 09, 2011 4:49 am

or you could be stupid like me and grab the same length bolt as the pucks and then counter sink them lol

DirtyKK · **Posted:** Sun Jan 09, 2011 5:02 am

Which is actually a good idea because the bolt head could potentially tear up the stock upper bumpstop (seen pics). I used 3" zone bumpstops and 3 1/2" carriage bolts, the carriage bolts don't have a bolt head on them.

Slitch · **Posted:** Sun Jan 09, 2011 5:04 am

bwtucker wrote:

I ordered OME medium duty springs for the front and back and I ordered the nitrocharger sports to go with them. I'm going to do the hockey puck bump stop for the back. How thick is the metal that you drill through? I can get stainless steel bolts at work and I want to grab the correct length. Thanks for any help.

I have the exact same coils and shocks on my libby with no extra lift (clevis or top plates) and only the oem bumpstops on front and rear

i thought that was ok but only if i didnt do any more lift, right?? :shock:

DirtyKK · **Posted:** Sun Jan 09, 2011 5:12 am

i think the main reason people add bump stop is to prevent tire rub. i would say dont use em if you dont need em cause they limit your articulation. i may actually be removing some of mine and getting longer shocks if i feel froggy one of these days.

Slitch · **Posted:** Sun Jan 09, 2011 5:19 am

thanks Dirty KK that was a relief, no i don’t have any tire rubs i only run 245/70/16 which is not even 30" on a 1.5" lift
p.s sorry if i hijacked the thread just though it was kind of related

thanks again

bwtucker · **Posted:** Sun Jan 09, 2011 12:21 pm

Hijack away, I got my answer pretty quick. Thanks guys!! I'm surprised the metal is so thin there but I guess it works fine.

tommudd · **Posted:** Sun Jan 09, 2011 12:25 pm

Not that thick but takes a good drill bit to go through it,
helps to have a right angle drill as well to do it
I have used carriage head and regular on the various lifts just depends on what was in the bolt tray when I reached in :wink:

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 09, 2011 2:40 pm

those watchamacallit, "step bits" work really well for chewing through KJ metal - went out and bought one after using one at nctransmissions while putting my rock rails on

tommudd · **Posted:** Sun Jan 09, 2011 2:48 pm

I have a couple of sets of the step bits, yes they do work great
and you know how much I like to drill holes :BANANA:

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 09, 2011 2:49 pm

yeah, i could see you and chris circling someones rig.. you with a drill, him with a paint can

hockey puck bump stop

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