Question Abourt Brakes

JohnnyCash · **Posted:** Tue Mar 02, 2010 10:10 pm

When I changed my front brake pads is it normal that I had to compress the piston before removing the caliper from the rotor? There was no way it was coming off otherwise. The pads were tight up against the rotors.

I was thinking today that that doesn't seem right. Doesn't that mean my brake pads would have been rubbing against my rotors all the time?

Also on each wheel I had one thin pad and one thicker pad (about twice as thick). Is that normal?

Daksport · **Posted:** Tue Mar 02, 2010 11:33 pm

The fit between the rotor and pad is always very tight so that brake response is quick when you press the brake pedal. As a result calipers can sometimes be a bit difficult to get off but you shouldn't need anything more than a small crowbar to get the caliper to come off.

With regards to your question about pad thickness, which pad was thicker and which one was thinner??? This is a result of caliper movement issues.

JohnnyCash · **Posted:** Wed Mar 03, 2010 12:28 am

Daksport wrote:

The fit between the rotor and pad is always very tight so that brake response is quick when you press the brake pedal. As a result calipers can sometimes be a bit difficult to get off but you shouldn't need anything more than a small crowbar to get the caliper to come off.

With regards to your question about pad thickness, which pad was thicker and which one was thinner??? This is a result of caliper movement issues.

I tried working that caliper off until I was worn out, but I didn't try a crow bar. I tossed the pads, so I'm not sure which was thinner, but one was twice as thick as the other.

I lubed the caliper pins when I replaced them, but when I took them out I noticed they were as dry as they could be.........no lube at all. Wondering if that's normal.

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Wed Mar 03, 2010 12:42 am

most calipers you can get a moderately thin screw driver through the slot in the caliper and down to the rotor allowing you to "Pull the caliper" towards the rotor, which compresses the piston back in most of the way

won't press it in the entire way, but shortens the distance that you have to compress it once it's removed

opelboy · **Posted:** Sun Aug 14, 2011 9:49 pm

i know this is a fairly old post but i recently had the same problem. my brake shoes were really tight against the rotor and one was thinner than the other. the pads also showed signs of heating. taking the shoes out of their bracket was fairly difficult because they were really tight. when i tried to put the new shoes in place they too were really tight but i figured the ones i took out were the same way so it must be normal. a couple months later i checked on them to see how they were doing and again the pads were wore differently, one thin the other about where it was new. i took em out and again signs of excessive heating. i got yet another set of pads but this time i ground the edge of the pads down just a touch until they slid freely in their groove, not too loose just enough that they could be slid by hand toward and away from the rotor. havent had any problems yet so i think my problems are over for now...hopefully

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 17, 2011 5:01 am

I've seen quite a few issues caused by certain quick brake job places who removed slider clips and didn't replace them

new ones and a pack of grease to lube the guide bolts and new boots are usually about 5-10 dollars

just fyi

opelboy · **Posted:** Thu Aug 18, 2011 5:01 pm

i go overboard when it comes to replacing parts. when i replace my brakes everything comes out except the rotor and caliper (unless its bad).
ive been putting never seize on the sliders and it seems to be working fine, is there any reason i shouldnt do that?

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Thu Aug 18, 2011 5:14 pm

if ya talking about the bolt sliders absolutely

i don't lubricate the clip sliders, just is a magnet for brake dust

at the same time, don't really think its gonna hurt anything either

Question Abourt Brakes

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