Well, non starting demon...
2002 Liberty Sport 3.7L 4WD
Parked it on Sunday night two weeks ago. Rode my bike Monday and Tuesday. Needed 4 wheels on Wednesday so I go out hop in the Jeep and it cranks but is a no start. So, I'm chasing issues for two weeks now. Here's what I know...

Has close to a half tank of gas, but fuel gauge doesn't come up when you turn key on. Holding down trip meter and turning on key, gauge check goes fine and ends with 6.4 but doesn't show any codes.

After you turn it on or try to crank it up... after about 5 seconds the fuel light comes on and 5 seconds later the check engine light comes on.

The OBDII port powers up my wireless code reader that talks to my iPhone, but doesn't stream data.

No pressure on the fuel rail. So fuel pump isn't running.

Front wipers won't turn on but will squirt fluid.

Checked fuel pump and wipers fuses and relays.

Internet research suggest bad crankshaft and camshaft position sensors may be causing the OBDII comms error... so I have replaced both of them. Let me tell you the crankshaft sensor was a mother.

Looking a wires I found the white wire in the plug on the fender behind the battery had a worn spot in it with two or three broken strands of wire (next to fix) but I didn't think this could be the problem.

Anyway assuming that fixing the worn wire isn't a miracle... what's my next step? Right now I think it's dropping the tank to confirm voltage at the fuel pump. Does any one know if a bad fuel pump would kill the gauge too?

Also, if my KJ has the access plate in the cargo area, would I be able to see it from under neath? I haven't been able to.

Hope someone can provide direction, I'm running out of ideas. Thanks, Jack

The 2002 models should all have the ability to access the fuel tank from above. Inside the cargo bay right at the rear on the carpet covering are two plastic hooks for tie-downs.

Drill the pop-rivets out on those two rear hooks and the carpeted panel should flip up.Then remove the access panel.

To get codes out of a 2002 KJ it is not the process of holding down the trip switch with ignition ON....this is only to test the panel lights and gauges.

You need to turn the ignition ON/OFF very rapidly without starting the engine....after the forth ON...the codes should display in the odometer....old codes first and the latest codes last.

It takes some practice doing this ON/OF process and sometimes it takes 5 times ON/OFF
The codes will only display once for each event ie. if you have been getting code P0152 several times it will only display once. The codes will not be cleared and take note that this procedure often switches over the last two digits so a displayed code of P0152 for example may actually mean P0125.

Do you have the SKIM warning light ON or flashing? This is the symbol of a Key with a line through it on the left side of the cluster.

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2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport

Should you be able to see the access panel from underneath the Jeep? I'd hate to drill out the rivets only to find it doesn't have the access panel. I've seen in forums that not all 2002's have the panel.

I've tried the on/off thing several times (and several variations from the internet) with no success, but I'll try again.

No SKIM light as you describe... what is the SKIM light for?

Thanks for the reply.

Is the immobilizer light on? I went through the exact same issue with my 2005.

Tell me if it act's like this.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RAVNylWD ... ture=g-upl

The Jeep was at the dealer off and on for about 6 weeks trying to reproduce the condition. In the end, it was a bad wire going from the cluster to the PCM. Don't ask me which one, I have no idea.

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2005 Liberty Sport
Bright Silver
Automatic
Sunroof
Reese 2" Class 3 Hitch for towing the sleds.

Mine's similar but it will crank and not start, plus my wipers don't work. What's the immobilizer light? If mine has one it's not on.

Like the video, I have no power hitting my fuel pump (if I jumper out the relay though it runs), my gas gauge doesn't move, gas light and check engine light comes on just like the video.

I did find a worn spot in a wire but I didn't think it was enough to cause a problem. It's the white wire going into the plug connector that mounts on the fender behind the battery. (see pic) I'll cut and splice it next I guess to make sure.



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Will it fire if you spray some gas directly into the intake?

Did you check the valve in the fuel line to see if any fuel sprays out of it (Look's like a valve stem).

Make sure you check both fuse boxes. There is the PDC which is in the engine compartment and a secondary one on the side of the divers side dash. Check all of your fuses. It's strange that the wipers don't work. Does everything else work? Lights, Radio, Heater...etc etc.

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2005 Liberty Sport
Bright Silver
Automatic
Sunroof
Reese 2" Class 3 Hitch for towing the sleds.

Already checked fuses and relays.

Last night I pulled the fuel pump relay (confirmed good btw) and jumpered the fuel pump on. Also tried to start it while the fuel pump was running... no dice. So there's more to it than fuel. The relay just isn't getting a signal to fire, so the fuel pump is no longer a suspect.

Things that I've found that aren't working: fuel gauge, front wipers, obdII port comms. The port will power up my sensor but no communication is comming from it.

Is the immobilizer light lit? It's the little red led in the lower left of the gauge cluster. If you look at the video posted, you will see it. If i's lit the security system is not allowing the PCM to communicate to anything.

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2005 Liberty Sport
Bright Silver
Automatic
Sunroof
Reese 2" Class 3 Hitch for towing the sleds.

You have had your battery checked out right? Inconsistent and/or low voltage can cause havoc with your PCM, and not allow your engine to start.

You could also have a bad connection to your PCM or a bad PCM.

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited

Provent @ 43,000 km
SEGR in progress
SAMCO Sport hoses @ 48500 km
Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac LT225/75R16

Don't have a security system. No immobilizer light.

Battery is less than 2 years old. It's down to 12.3 volts sitting static and drops when trying to start, but I imagine that is down from all the starting tries over the past two weeks without getting to recharge. Just to be safe I tied it to another vehicle with jumper cables and tried starting with the extra juice with no improvement.

I wish you could confirm whether a PCM is dead or not. I don't want to buy one just to find out it doesn't solve the problem.

Well, I may have found my problem, or at least the root cause of it. Last night I went to remove the PCM and noticed some leaves and grass deep in engine compartment down where the inner fender meets the fire wall. Apparently a mouse must have took up living space in my engine bay and chewed up the wire harness between the PCM and the body control module inside. Damage is right where it goes into the firewall. I tore apart the interior (kick panel and under dash stuff) and was able to pull enough harness back inside that I should be able to repair it. I found at least four wires completely severed and several others gnawed upon but it was getting too dark to see by that time.

Hopefully the wire damage is all I have to repair. Feels good to at least have a known problem to attack.

Congrats on finding an actual problem that can be fixed! There's not much as frustrating as "random" electronic problems that you can't fix and you can't reproduce them for the mechanic when you need to.

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2008 Liberty Sport 4x4 Automatic

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