Thanks, it looks like $700+ shipped then. I'll be saving for a while for that one, along with some UCA's. I really like the sound of better articulation though

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

You can get the IRO arm for $250 (call and ask for Joe Kennedy)
Then the diff bracket from Mason/Iron Forge Customs for 175 (IIRC)

Its 100% bolt on and is much cheaper than the JBA. Plus it dosent have heims that wear out and get noisy.

You honestly arnt gonna get any more flex over stock unless you go to a longer shock. These kits just give you "the potential" for flexy rear end. It mainly has to do with the shocks being limiting straps of some sort

Ideal setup is the IRO arm up top
And Clayton XJ front arms on the rear lower. That combo, take the shock off and you can sit between the tire and the wheel well. All for the same price as the JBA stuff. And better built and better hardware. Cheap Heims vs Currie Johnny Joints.

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I am the G.O.A.T.

Thanks for the info, I'll have to look into that. Are the OME long shocks in the class that you're speaking of? That's what I have.

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

No. Even stock suspension arms you can out flex those OME or Bilstein 4" lift shocks. Im talking about doing some permanent mods to the axle and alot of money to get alot of flex. Im talking 12-14" travel shocks instead of 8". You want a flexy rear end, you gotta be willing to buy something other than what JBA offers, and some modifications.

Im not afraid to think outside the box. I have 5.5" lift and the only thing JBA on it is the upper arm and the 4" coilovers, and both have been worked on to give me what I wanted.

Easy test. Take off your shocks and drive up a RTI ramp. Your springs will fall out ot atleast get loose.

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I am the G.O.A.T.

Alright, thanks again. That is more dough than I currently have to spend. I really need a locker in the rear though

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

So anyone have any ideas how to resolve this without a big hammer or changing the Muffler? Longer bump stops would do it? go to 4 hockey pucks? would that do it? Also has anyone else had the same problem?

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CRD 2.5 2003

Snorkel
Curt Front Hitch+Warn M8000 & Cradel
Asfir Front, Gearbox,Transfer Skid + Mopar Tank Skid
BF Goodridge KM2 & General Grabbers AT 245/75R16
OME NS131&790 + NS132L&948, 3/8 Boiler Top Plate, JBA 4.5, 2 Top Rear Isolators

I ended up moving my muffler I did have the same problem but that fixed it.

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Outlaw KJ '04 4X4 v6 Sport
Frankenlifted front, custom springs 4" rear, 23.25" F/R - 265/75 Duratracs 16x7 D windows- JBA 4.5 UCAs, Y-link - AEM Brute Intake - Rockcrusher diff cover, Mopar Front Skid, All J belly skid, Skink Sliders - EBC Green Stuff F/R - DTT Front, 4.10s