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Ok.
Next I would look at PDC fuel pump. Which is the fuel pump relay in the box in front of the battery.
Pull the relay and see if the fuse continues to blow.

Does your CRD have a lift pump in the fuel tank?
The CRD did not come with a electric fuel pump from the factory.
If it does not have a lift pump it will run just fine without the relay.

Check wiring harness real close for any rubbed spots that would allow a wire to touch bare metal.
Several on here have had some shorts due to chafed wiring harnesses rubbed and causing a short.
Inspect them real close especially around the engine area since the engine moves and can rub wires... :wink:

WWDiesel wrote:

Okay. So the harness on top of the engine after you take the plastic CRD cover off is a good place to start? It is very random when the fuse blows as you can see in my original post. Maybe it is just a wire. Any other places to check that usually can rub? Thanks,

DarkEnemy wrote:

WWDiesel wrote:

Check the harness where it goes behind the alternator/bracket and over the top part of the front of the engine. A couple members have had a rubbed wire and subsequent short in this area... :roll:

Ok great thanks will check it and let ya know. Anything else I should look for?

DarkEnemy wrote:

Ok great thanks will check it and let ya know. Anything else I should look for?

I would just very carefully check all wiring in and around engine area. Especially any wires that come in contact with engine movement!
Good Luck!!!
You did not say where you are located. Some on this forum have the proper tools and experience for finding electrical problems... :roll:

See this post where a member found a 12v wire intermittently shorting to ground on top of his engine and blowing a fuse:
See picture at: http://colorado4wheel.com/images/libby/IMG_9161.JPG

View topic:
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=84861&p=894234&hilit=#p894234

Let us know what you find!

Had to be a wire shorted to ground or shorted internally in the harness going across the the top of the engine to the MAF! :roll:

Get rid of CAT and choke point right in front of it. (flange) Replace with straight pipe and add Flowmaster muffler
Exhaust: Flowmaster 942542 Series 40 Delta Flow, 2.50 Center In / 2.50 Offset Out
Nice mellow tone and cannot hear it in vehicle going down the road!
It will fit perfectly in place of OEM muffler! OEM tailpipe is good to go, 2 1/2 inch all the way out to rear exit.

If you want to make noise, stright pipe and no muffler! :roll:

Best Flow = Straight pipe Get rid of the restrictive Cat and OEM Muffler
Best Scavenging = terminate it in the low pressure area behind the rear wheel.
Best internal sound = terminate it just past the outer body / bumper line so there is no reverberation.
I chose not to wake the neighbors, and put Flowmaster 942550 tucked up just behind the rear cross member.
Edit:
With all windows up tight, and the air fan off, I can hear exhaust tone change barely enough to hear when the turbo vanes open/close.

Author:	DarkEnemy [ Thu Jul 27, 2017 7:46 pm ]
Post subject:	Fuse Problems
Hello all, Thanks for letting me join. Bought a 2005 CRD (76000 miles) back in April and been reading the posts on this site ever since. Did most of the stuff on the newbie guide (thanks!) However, I now have a pretty big issue. About 2 weeks ago my Jeep just died while i was going down the road. Long story short, had it towed to the mechanic and it was a blown fuse. The fuse was number 14 on the inside panel. He replaced the 10 amp fuse and drove it around a mile or two for a few days after giving it back to me. I took it to work the next day which is about 30 min each way and all was fine. Over the weekend didnt drive it and went to go to work again on Monday and about a mile down the road it shut off again. Luckily, I had a pack of 10 amp fuses with me. It kept blowing and it took 4 fuses to get back home. I looked in owners manual and found that that fuse has the PDC fuel pump, AC clutch, starter relay, engine controller, and Transmission controller. I am taking it back to the mechanic on Monday for him to look at it again. I am not very mechanically savvy so I will try to answer any questions to the best of my ability. Also I apologize if i posted in the wrong place etc. Hopefully someone could shed some light on this as I am very frustrated. Thanks!

Author:	flash7210 [ Fri Jul 28, 2017 5:48 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Fuse Problems
Looks like that circuit has some control of the AC. Are you using the AC? Does the fuse pop with the AC off?

Author:	DarkEnemy [ Fri Jul 28, 2017 6:38 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Fuse Problems
Yeah. The fuse pops with the AC off.

Author:	flash7210 [ Fri Jul 28, 2017 7:26 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Fuse Problems
Ok. Next I would look at PDC fuel pump. Which is the fuel pump relay in the box in front of the battery. Pull the relay and see if the fuse continues to blow. Does your CRD have a lift pump in the fuel tank? The CRD did not come with a electric fuel pump from the factory. If it does not have a lift pump it will run just fine without the relay.

Author:	WWDiesel [ Fri Jul 28, 2017 9:14 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Fuse Problems
Check wiring harness real close for any rubbed spots that would allow a wire to touch bare metal. Several on here have had some shorts due to chafed wiring harnesses rubbed and causing a short. Inspect them real close especially around the engine area since the engine moves and can rub wires...

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Author:	DarkEnemy [ Fri Jul 28, 2017 10:08 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Fuse Problems
flash7210 wrote: Ok. Next I would look at PDC fuel pump. Which is the fuel pump relay in the box in front of the battery. Pull the relay and see if the fuse continues to blow. Does your CRD have a lift pump in the fuel tank? The CRD did not come with a electric fuel pump from the factory. If it does not have a lift pump it will run just fine without the relay. Sorry if any of these questions sound silly. Not too mechanically inclined. Okay by relay do you mean a fuse? Not sure about the fuel pump. Bought it off 80 year old guy who was original owner. I doubt he did anything with the fuel pump. Just a guess. So you are saying it should have a lift pump in the tank only? from the factory?

Author:	DarkEnemy [ Fri Jul 28, 2017 10:10 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Fuse Problems
WWDiesel wrote: Check wiring harness real close for any rubbed spots that would allow a wire to touch bare metal. Several on here have had some shorts due to chafed wiring harnesses rubbed and causing a short. Inspect them real close especially around the engine area since the engine moves and can rub wires... Okay. So the harness on top of the engine after you take the plastic CRD cover off is a good place to start? It is very random when the fuse blows as you can see in my original post. Maybe it is just a wire. Any other places to check that usually can rub? Thanks,

Author:	HER_CRD [ Fri Jul 28, 2017 10:57 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Fuse Problems
A relay is a small electric device that acts as a switch for high current loads. There is a small amount of current that passes over the coil to a ground. This creates a magnetic field to move the flipper to turn current on or off. Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

Author:	DarkEnemy [ Fri Jul 28, 2017 11:07 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Fuse Problems
Gotcha. Thanks HER_CRD

Author:	WWDiesel [ Sat Jul 29, 2017 10:10 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Fuse Problems
DarkEnemy wrote: WWDiesel wrote: Check wiring harness real close for any rubbed spots that would allow a wire to touch bare metal. Several on here have had some shorts due to chafed wiring harnesses rubbed and causing a short. Inspect them real close especially around the engine area since the engine moves and can rub wires... Okay. So the harness on top of the engine after you take the plastic CRD cover off is a good place to start? It is very random when the fuse blows as you can see in my original post. Maybe it is just a wire. Any other places to check that usually can rub? Thanks, Check the harness where it goes behind the alternator/bracket and over the top part of the front of the engine. A couple members have had a rubbed wire and subsequent short in this area...

Author:	DarkEnemy [ Sat Jul 29, 2017 11:38 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Fuse Problems
WWDiesel wrote: DarkEnemy wrote: WWDiesel wrote: Check wiring harness real close for any rubbed spots that would allow a wire to touch bare metal. Several on here have had some shorts due to chafed wiring harnesses rubbed and causing a short. Inspect them real close especially around the engine area since the engine moves and can rub wires... Okay. So the harness on top of the engine after you take the plastic CRD cover off is a good place to start? It is very random when the fuse blows as you can see in my original post. Maybe it is just a wire. Any other places to check that usually can rub? Thanks, Check the harness where it goes behind the alternator/bracket and over the top part of the front of the engine. A couple members have had a rubbed wire and subsequent short in this area... Ok great thanks will check it and let ya know. Anything else I should look for?

Author:	WWDiesel [ Sat Jul 29, 2017 3:59 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Fuse Problems
DarkEnemy wrote: Ok great thanks will check it and let ya know. Anything else I should look for? I would just very carefully check all wiring in and around engine area. Especially any wires that come in contact with engine movement! Good Luck!!! You did not say where you are located. Some on this forum have the proper tools and experience for finding electrical problems... See this post where a member found a 12v wire intermittently shorting to ground on top of his engine and blowing a fuse: See picture at: http://colorado4wheel.com/images/libby/IMG_9161.JPG View topic: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=84861&p=894234&hilit=#p894234 Let us know what you find!

Author:	DarkEnemy [ Mon Jul 31, 2017 3:56 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Fuse Problems
WWDiesel wrote: DarkEnemy wrote: Ok great thanks will check it and let ya know. Anything else I should look for? I would just very carefully check all wiring in and around engine area. Especially any wires that come in contact with engine movement! Good Luck!!! You did not say where you are located. Some on this forum have the proper tools and experience for finding electrical problems... See this post where a member found a 12v wire intermittently shorting to ground on top of his engine and blowing a fuse: See picture at: http://colorado4wheel.com/images/libby/IMG_9161.JPG View topic: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=84861&p=894234&hilit=#p894234 Let us know what you find! Ok great I will check around and look for bad wires. Thanks for the topic link. I am from Pittsburgh PA.

Author:	DarkEnemy [ Tue Aug 08, 2017 8:27 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Fuse Problems
Okay just wanted to post an update. So knock on wood it looks like the problem is fixed. Its been almost two weeks since the mechanic made his repairs. First off for future reference, that fuse is only for the engine computer, tranny computer and maf sensor. All the other stuff i listed above is for gas engines only it turns out. In any case what the mechanic did is crimped two inline 5amp fuses one going to each computer. The maf sensor wire that makes its way along the top of the engine he eliminated since the maf sensor is unplugged anyway due to the egr delete. (per instructions) The wire in question is the pink/white wire. So i am guessing there was a bad part of the wire from the maf sensor on top of the engine. Never actually found a bare wire anywhere, but its been holding steady. Hope this helps someone and makes sense. Thanks!

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Author:	WWDiesel [ Tue Aug 08, 2017 8:46 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Fuse Problems
Had to be a wire shorted to ground or shorted internally in the harness going across the the top of the engine to the MAF!

Author:	DarkEnemy [ Tue Aug 08, 2017 9:36 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Fuse Problems
WWDiesel wrote: Had to be a wire shorted to ground or shorted internally in the harness going across the the top of the engine to the MAF! Yeah thats what im thinking. Keeping my fingers crossed. Thanks for all the help. Now for an upgraded exhaust of some kind.

Author:	GordnadoCRD [ Tue Aug 08, 2017 10:38 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Fuse Problems
Best Flow = Straight pipe Get rid of the restrictive Cat and OEM Muffler Best Scavenging = terminate it in the low pressure area behind the rear wheel. Best internal sound = terminate it just past the outer body / bumper line so there is no reverberation. I chose not to wake the neighbors, and put Flowmaster 942550 tucked up just behind the rear cross member. Edit: With all windows up tight, and the air fan off, I can hear exhaust tone change barely enough to hear when the turbo vanes open/close.

Author:	WWDiesel [ Wed Aug 09, 2017 1:42 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Fuse Problems
Get rid of CAT and choke point right in front of it. (flange) Replace with straight pipe and add Flowmaster muffler Exhaust: Flowmaster 942542 Series 40 Delta Flow, 2.50 Center In / 2.50 Offset Out Nice mellow tone and cannot hear it in vehicle going down the road! It will fit perfectly in place of OEM muffler! OEM tailpipe is good to go, 2 1/2 inch all the way out to rear exit. If you want to make noise, stright pipe and no muffler!

Author:	DarkEnemy [ Wed Aug 09, 2017 9:24 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Fuse Problems
WWDiesel wrote: Get rid of CAT and choke point right in front of it. (flange) Replace with straight pipe and add Flowmaster muffler Exhaust: Flowmaster 942542 Series 40 Delta Flow, 2.50 Center In / 2.50 Offset Out Nice mellow tone and cannot hear it in vehicle going down the road! It will fit perfectly in place of OEM muffler! OEM tailpipe is good to go, 2 1/2 inch all the way out to rear exit. If you want to make noise, stright pipe and no muffler! So when you say get rid of cat and choke point you mean cut it out and run a straight pipe to muffler (new flowmaster) Does the straight pipe from sasquatch do that? https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/product ... k-exhaust/ Then just add the flowmaster and im done?