Has anyone else had this problem? It's happened on my '06 KJ twice now...

The parking brake mounting plate - looks like a tin dinner plate the same diameter as the rotor, has come loose from its mounts on the axle housing. It happened on the passenger's side about six months ago, and it happened on the driver's side just recently. In both cases, the heads of the mounting bolts sheared off. To fix it, the entire rear-end needs to be torn apart and the axles removed. Luckily I'm still under extended warranty, otherwise the job would cost me over $700 to have fixed. I planned to fix it myself, but I don't have an axle puller and gear mesh tools for putting the rear-end back together.

What really interests me is that this happened twice now. I wonder if it's happened to anyone else...

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2006 Dark Khaki KJ Renegade D
Currently Bone Stock (unless you count a K&N air filter)

2006 Black Toyota Tacoma 4x4 4.0L

I checked for TSB's on this, and did not find any. Perhaps you should register a safety complaint with NHTSA,
and get this on record. An ebrake is there for a reason, I am sure it is a safety issue. http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/

Thanks, that's a good suggestion. I agree that this could be dangerous. As it was, the parking brake still worked, it just wasn't tightly affixed to the axle.

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2006 Dark Khaki KJ Renegade D
Currently Bone Stock (unless you count a K&N air filter)

2006 Black Toyota Tacoma 4x4 4.0L

Dont know what that is but you dont need it to pull the axle. Take the c-clip out and just slide the axle out. Its cake.

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LOST KJ'S
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Current Jeep: 2004 Jeep Liberty
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http://www.cardomain.com/id/jeepjeepster

Hmm... I just looked at the service manual again - I think I read too far along. I thought I had to remove & replace the axle bearings and pinion seal, which is where special tools are required and things get a lot more complicated. Either way, the work was covered under warranty. But if it happens again later, I know the job won't be as bad as I thought it would be.

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2006 Dark Khaki KJ Renegade D
Currently Bone Stock (unless you count a K&N air filter)

2006 Black Toyota Tacoma 4x4 4.0L

I know this is an ancient topic, but it's the only reference I could find to it searching the whole site...

Anyway, My CRD with ~80K miles on it has this same backing plate bolt shearing problem! WTF, I've never seen anything like it, and I've wrenched on a lot of stuff for a while now. I'm about to go outside in a couple minutes and fix this, but it seems like a strange catastrophic failure of the brake system and relatively rare!?

Anyone have any more info on this?

EDIT:
Well I just finished fixing it. Hard to tell what the fasteners used to be, but it almost seemed like aluminum rivets. Pulled the caliper mount bracket off the end of the axle and tapped the 3 holes (not previously threaded). Drilled the through holes in the backing plate bigger to accommodate the larger hardware and put in Allen socket cap screws due to the close proximity to the axle tube. The backing plate was all ground down from flopping around and wearing against the backside of the rotor, but was still serviceable. Seems like it's just a matter of time before the other side fails, but at least I know what to expect.

Hope this might help someone who runs across this in the future.
Thanks!

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06 KJ Limited CRD
mod airbox
EHM
Mishimoto hoses
Weeks Stage1+2
Yeti stage 2 ECM
GDE ECO TCM
FTC billet TC
Transgo kit
no mech fan
Cummins lift pump
2.5" catback
OME 790/948 springs
JBA top plate and UCAs
2 upper rear insulators
Bilstein 24-139168 front 24-186704 rear
255/70R16
1.25" wheelspacers
SkidRow engine plate

This also happened to me. Technically, it's still broken. Passenger side. I haven't been motivated to fix it so I just keep it in gear.

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2006 Sport 4X4, Deep Beryl Green, NSG370, NV241J, Lifted with OME 927/948 and Bilstein, JBA 4.5 UCA's, Custom 3" Rear Y-Link Extension and Swaybar Relocation, 265/75-16 Toyo Open Country AT2 tires, Black Plastidipped bumpers, flares, and doors, Pioneer speakers, Alpine head unit, 1200w Phoenix Gold Amp, 12" Dayton Reference sub.

you dont have to take the entire rear end apart... just have to take the axle out. take off the rear diff cover, brake rotors/calipers, push axle in, remove C clip, remove axle.

the easiest way to fix it is to buy the entire parking brake assembly/backing plate from jeep and just bolt it on ($125). i tried fixing it with new rivets before and it just failed again a few months later

does suck though! mine have done it twice too with only 55k miles

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2006 Renegade. Completely stock.

Anyone happen to know the part #'s for the backing plates? I have found them before but can't seem to find them, need the driver's side for sure but will likely do both.

THanks

My parking brake assemblies began making horrific noises.I bought new shoes and hardware kits,rotors and pads also to change while I was in there. After some effort I was able to remove the rotor to view the mess that was the parking brake assembly. Sure enough both plates were also broken free. After some thought(I had never actually used the Parking brake) I removed ALL of if. Cleared out the shoes and springs.A quick slice in the plate with a saws-all and some bending ,gone. Disconnected the cable and removed the actuator. Almost as satisfying as removing a big sliver.

In that state. Would your vehicle still pass a motor vehicle inspection with no parking brake?

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06 Renegade, 265-70-16 Duratracs on Moab's/OMF, RL sliders ,roof rack, On board air, JBA-UCA, adjust-a strut, Rear-OME 948 two uppers ,Sensatrac shocks, Boiler rad. skid, Mopar/4x guard skid,Terra-flex 4:1,HD cooling,more lights, gauges. ARB/Warn, Mudds Rear Bumper.

I have a 2006 Liberty 4x4 Renegade and need to replace the complete parking brake assembly on both sides. Luckily I know someone who knows how to do the job. But it sure has a been a pain. First trying to find the part, when I finally found the part numbers, GET READY FOR STICKER SHOCK, Qty Product # Price EA
1 ADAPTER. Right. Parking Brake. 52129176AD $249.60
1 ADAPTER. Left. Parking Brake. 52129177AD $240.00
AND IT IS ONLY 2006-2007 THAT IS SO EXPENSIVE. The years before and after are less than $150. I called my local Jeep dealership to see if I could get them cheaper, after I gave him the part numbers, he got back on the phone and said he could have both for me the next day at $375 each. The parts come tomorrow. I asked my friend the process and you remove everything to the plate then remove the c-clip out and just slide the axle out . For something that is rarely used, it is a pain that you have to change/fix them, mine are due to rust from the salt the spread on the roads. http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/-CkAAOSwuTxV~rkk/s-l500.jpg[img][album][album][/album][/album][/img]
I will update everyone on how it goes. I was injured in a 45 foot fall and must take pain meds and I waited three years for a pain pump so I could drive then found out I have lung cancer a year ago so the Jeep sat nearly 5 years. A new battery, an oil change and check of fluid levels, and it started right off. Since I am never going to be able to drive again I am giving it to my soon to be 23 old son. I am going back through and fixing everything right, somethings were done to just keep me on going on the road. It only has 63,000 miles.

Here is the work done so far, I had to replace both the rear driver and passenger Window Motor & Regulator Assemblies, 2nd one on drivers side, however I installed APDTY 111423 Window Motor & Regulator Assembly Rear Right Passenger-Side Upgraded Cable Style Fits 2002-2006* Jeep Liberty (2006* Models Manufactured Up To 2-25-2006) which is a much improved design. Those were $60 a piece on Amazon. 5 New Cooper tires $900, front and back rotors, pads etc $200. Both rear Calipers $80. I have one thing were the universal joint that we just fixed enough to get by but it has been so long I have to take it part to find out what part it was. HOPEFULLY THAT IS ALL. I will GET SOME SATISFACTION, there are 6 recalls that I have not had taken care of so I will keeping the dealer busy that want to charge me $750 for the parking brake assemblies. I am glad that I have the money to fix things and am not going to leave a jeep with to dropping windows and 4 flats for my son to deal with, instead he will get a replacement for the 1998 Cherokee Sport formerly 4x4 but now 4x2 with 200,000

Changing the entire parking assembly was not as difficult as I thought it would be. Once you open the center of the axle and remove the parts you need to then you are able to slide the part of the axle with the lug nuts attached. I bought the complete assemblies so they came in on piece, so you have four bolts to remove; unbolt a cable and unhook the cable. Then it is just a matter of placing the new assembly on tightening up the four nuts attaching the cables, you might as well change axle seals while you have it apart. Slide both sides of the axle back on and reattach. I have a couple of pictures but I do not have permission to post them yet.

I also know this subject is very old, but I am trying to determine of there is enough demand to develop and manufacture a high quality aftermarket rear brake backing plate and retaining pins for all Jeep Liberty owners who have rear disc brakes. The parts I am looking to manufacture would be made of heavier gauge 316 stainless steel.

I know how much a parking/backing plate assembly in Canada would cost if you had to replace the backing plate, but how much is it now in the U.S?

The dies that would stamp out and cut the holes for a replacement backing plate would cost between $15,000.00 and $30,000.00 to develop and machine, (I will try to get a more accurate price soon). The raw materials would work out to about $30.00 per backing plate.

The idea here is to manufacture a permanent solution to the problem of rear backing plates and pins rusting out and causing all kinds of problems with the parking brakes; a heavier gauge 316 stainless steel backing plate and retaining pins should be ticket to accomplish this. I am trying to get a price that is significantly lower than what the dealer charges for an O.E. assembly, and offer the customer a vastly superior product.

Are there people running KJ Libertys that are still experiencing problems with their parking brakes?

I post mostly over in the CRD section as I manufacture a replacement thermostat for the CRD engine. Here is my product...

For as little as it might be worth NAPA used to sell a complete rear brake rebuild kit including the parking brake and its backing plate. Unfortunately I did not save the NAPA PN and cannot find it on their web site which means either they no longer stock the kit or some combination of I cannot do a proper search or it's not on their web site.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Wash the undercarriage at least twice a month year round(yes this includes winter,more so in the winter) and problem solved.

Easy for you to say when you live in Colorado... your winters are half the length of mine and your climate is even drier, and you probably do not have the salt issues to deal with like Liberty owners down East.

Is there any way to pursue this lead any further? I do not want to compete with a part or assembly of parts that is already in the aftermarket.

I have not always lived in Colorado,my KJ has seen it's fair share of salt(they use sodium chloride solution here in CO which is worse).I originally was in South Dakota with pretty bad winters(Feb average temps well below zero) and still washed it every sunday regardless.

It is still a problem, due mainly to cheaply and flimsily made O.E. parts. Not all of us have the time or the facilities to get behind the rear wheels to spray them directly, and there is no guarantee this will even work most of the time because the worst rust is inside the parking brake drum.

I have heard other vehicles with the rear disc/parking brake drum set up having similar problems... I am wondering why, for example, G.M. went back to drum rear brakes for a while on their Chevy, (and I assume GMC), pickup trucks.