Lessons learned and thanks to you guys & the tech sections

RussB · **Posted:** Mon Jun 10, 2019 9:11 am

I haven't signed up for a forum since Mustang GT's had two valves, but after buying an '04 Liberty to replace my '91 Cherokee, the forums have become valuable again. No lie, I been creeping around in here. Some of y'all are brilliant. Others not so much, and I thank you because I certainly don't want to do what you did. I have learned many things about the Liberty. The Cherokee was an old war horse that could be fixed with bailing wire, chewing gum, and a big hammer. Any part from anywhere would fit. This Libby has taught me cheap and Jeep may rhyme, but they are words that do not go together.

1. Never buy a used vehicle from the Rust Belt ever. Don't do it. Trust me.

2. If you do, be prepared. Every job takes 4x as long and costs 4x as much for all the other parts you break trying to fix the one part that was originally broke. And everything that was three pieces from the factory is now fused into one solid piece.

3. Read the tech sections BEFORE you start. Not in the middle of the job. That would have saved me the aggravation of learning the hard way that the intermediate shaft rusts solid to the passenger CV axle every time. Ever get that hopeless sinking feeling and get scared you just crossed that line of your garage versus towing it somewhere to pay hundreds to fix? Happens to me every time I touch the Libby, and I come from a line of ASE Master mechanics. Luckily with shear brute force I got it back together as I was trying to take it apart.

4. Buy quality (i.e. expensive) parts for the KJ. My wife's Yukon can use the cheapest Rock Auto has and it is usually an improvement over OEM GM parts. I have have learned the Libby does not like the cheapest stuff RA has. My half shafts had bad spline machining and wouldn't fit. The brakes lines didn't fit. Find an independent Carquest with an owner that hates their Advance Auto overlords and online competitors. They will give you good deals on parts that fit.

5. The clevis bolts will need to be replaced because the L-bracket under the head is rusted off or weak. Use 06509615AA which is M14x2.00x150 (it's a little longer) but it is the bolt they use on Ram's to hold the LCA together. And it has a nice hex head you can get a socket on. Get a M14x2.00 flange nut from the hardware store. The Mopar one is $6. The HW store is $2. The 6503088 bolts that hold your wheel hubs on (the E14 head) can be replaced by a M12x1.75x40 all thread flange head bolt. Once torqued you will have more than two thread protrusion. I used: M12 bolts p/n 88292 at Menard's, and M14 nuts p/n 88302 at Menard's. Yes, they are Class 10.9. Settle for nothing less than a 10.9.

6. Buy an impact. If you don't have air buy a corded one. I have a Kobalt 8amp corded impact. Be careful because it will break your arm off, and is harder to wield than Snap-On's best air impacts. But dammit all it works. This tool has been the MVP for KJ chassis work.

7. Remember, when it comes to wrenching, the Germans use five parts to do one thing, the Japanese use one part to do five things, and the Americans use five parts with two doing something and the other three just there.

Oh, and since my wheel hubs aren't being noisy anymore I hear all the other little things. Like this buzzing, brrrrt, brrrrt, electric motor like whine from underneath. It isn't near the fuel tank so I ruled out pump, it is coming from the transmission area. Drives and shifts great. No idea what it is though. I'm too tired from the front end work to investigate.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Mon Jun 10, 2019 10:16 am

Glad some of us could be of some help to you.

Does the sound start when you first turn the key? It may be your in-tank fuel pump giving it's notice.

As far as this buzzing, brrrrt, brrrrt, electric motor like whine from underneath. Hydraulics often make sounds like that. Does the sound change when you turn the steering wheel from side to side? Check your steering fluid. If it's not low, but the sound seems associated with steering, check the vibration dampener up under the left side headlight, and continue to the pump if the problem prevails.

If the steering isn't involved at all, I would do a full service of the Transmission. Both filters, and new fluid. Check the old fluid for metal flake, clutch material, burnt smell, etc.

On the 4wds, the front drive shaft transfer case end CV joint goes out the most. I doubt that's the problem because it makes more of a rattly, clunky noise. I'm just mentioning it because if you keep it very long, you will likely encounter it in the future.

RussB · **Posted:** Wed Jun 26, 2019 9:09 am

My bzzzrrttt noise was the fuel pump. By the time I'm done with this Libby I'll have practically rebuilt the dam thing. I bought it for 2k and it runs strong, the owner just never fixed anything on it because it was their winter car. The pinion seal just got replaced too. I was having to refill half the rear diff every few days. I took it to the shop as I am scared of messing with rear ends because of pre-load, crush sleeves, clearances in the 0.0000000001 range, etc. The old seal was rusted and gone! But now I have no leaks under my Jeep which is nice. I can park in the driveway again!

Lessons learned and thanks to you guys & the tech sections

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