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| Author: | Chevy1500_Travis [ Sat Nov 29, 2008 12:03 am ] |
| Post subject: | open suggestions for mods |
I have a truck that i actually just bought today. I have a picture of it only at the dealership. but believe me it really is mine. i am open to any suggestions on brands for lifts tires and rims. and i also want to know if anyone has seen a 1500 with mounted overhead lights, i see them on jeeps and want to know what they look like on trucks. well heres a picture of it this morning. Thanks for your suggestions.  [/url]
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| Author: | tjkj2002 [ Sat Nov 29, 2008 12:15 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
You will be handicapped just like the KJ,****IFS**** Also any tire size above stock seams to destroy the front unit bearing assembly rather fast,not to mention you can not put a locker in the front diff since none are made for it. The best advice is the SFA it,not joking either and it is far cheaper to do on a vehicle with a frame. |
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| Author: | Chevy1500_Travis [ Sat Nov 29, 2008 12:21 am ] |
| Post subject: | re: |
My original plans are to get her about 4 inches off the ground and i was looking to try to get 33/12.50, maybe 35/12.5. Thanks for the advice! if you can, tell me the best way to go about my plans. |
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| Author: | InCommando [ Sat Nov 29, 2008 1:00 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
285/75/r16's work out to be 33x11.5 and look good on those. They also are not so big that they overwhelm the front diff. As a freak who likes bigger tires on stock rims, that size will work on the stock rims, too. 305/70/16 is close to a 33x12.5. A good cat. back makes them sound good. Lights on top of trucks were popluar 20-25 years ago, but they were really too high to be good for anything but getting ripped off by trees. Often they were on they roll bars in the beds. Good luck, and keep us posted. |
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| Author: | Hood297 [ Sat Nov 29, 2008 3:37 pm ] |
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most of my friends with similar trucks crank the torsion bars (free lift) or buy ford torsion bar keys and crank them. This is cheap, and gives it a pretty crappy ride, but you can fit bigger tires if thats all you're after. In the rear they go with either lift blocks (cheap/easy) or Add-a-leafs (still pretty cheap, not as easy). Check out www.hilifter.com for more info on chevy trucks |
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| Author: | tjkj2002 [ Sat Nov 29, 2008 9:53 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The worst thing you can do is "turn up" the torsion bars.If you want a mild lift replace the 1/2 ton torsion bars for 3/4ton or 1 ton torsion bars and a 2" lift block in the rear.You will need new UCA's also,longer ones so your are not running around with the UCA sitting on it's stop at normal ride hieght(same as thing happens when you turn up the torsion bars). |
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| Author: | Hood297 [ Sun Nov 30, 2008 12:03 am ] |
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This was not a suggestion to crank them to the point of the UCA resting on the bumpstop (Like on my friends 97 chevy silverado) but to do it enough, if even necessary, to clear the tires he wants to run. I look at this the same way as doing a clevis lift. It's only to be done in moderation, or it will cause more harm than it helps. I agree with your earlier post that the best bet would be to do a SFA swap, however he may not need that extra strength, and cost. There are a ton of people around here driving around these trucks that are lifted was a cradle drop, and running 35-37" tires (typically 20-22" rims gross) with no issues. They ARE NOT wheeling them hard other than slamming them through the mud  . And the rich kids are anything but easy on these rigs.
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| Author: | TAHOE [ Sun Nov 30, 2008 9:17 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Can't see you pic, but it all depends on your budget and what you will be using it for, mainly street or off road. I have a 99 Tahoe (OBS- old body style) and I installed a 3" body lift, easy to do, only cost $150. Since I do little offroading, it is the route I went with. I am running 285/75/16's which are 32.5", I could almost fit a 35 under it. If you want a 4" lift, you could do a 2" body lift, then get the Ford keys for 2" crank up front and use add a leaves or 2" blocks for the back. If you had plans for some offroading, I would recommend biting the bullet and spending the big $$$$ and have a true 4" suspension lift installed. I did the add a leaf and Ford keys on my buddy's 2002 Chevy, looked nice, but it stiffened up the ride...he liked it. Too bad you weren't closer, I have a brand new inthe box set of add a leafs that would fit our truck, he was sent two sets for some reason. I frequent http://www.fullsizechevy.com there is tons of info on what you want to do on there. Or google " GM trucks forums" and there will be a few that pop up. |
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| Author: | tjkj2002 [ Sun Nov 30, 2008 9:30 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
It's pricy but FabTech has a lift for those P/U's that gets rid of the torsion bar front suspension and changes it to coilover's,a much better setup. |
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| Author: | Hood297 [ Sun Nov 30, 2008 11:08 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I hate to hijack the thread, but how does a torsion bar suspension work? |
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| Author: | TAHOE [ Sun Nov 30, 2008 2:45 pm ] |
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Hood297 wrote: I hate to hijack the thread, but how does a torsion bar suspension work?
It's basically a steel bar that is attached at two ends and the twisting of the bar or lack of is what gives you the "torsion" My camper has a torsion type suspension also. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torsion_bar_suspension |
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| Author: | tjkj2002 [ Sun Nov 30, 2008 10:15 pm ] |
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Hood297 wrote: I hate to hijack the thread, but how does a torsion bar suspension work? About the same way your sway bars work.
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