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 Post subject: Findings after servicing my Kj myself
PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 7:38 am 
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Wow?
Fuel consumption is down by nearly 10%, the engine has not run this smooth since new and I know that everything is done exactly according the book with the best quality fluids on the market today.

Normally I would always find 2 or 3 items (sometimes more) that where crossed off on the dealer checklist but where not done at all as I have the habit of marking the parts that have to be replaced and I also mark the tyres as well.

So for the first time in 6 years I'm 100% happy with the best service money can buy, I saved a bunch of money and my KJ drives like never before :D :D :D

......and the best thing of all, no idiot of a Jeep service manager telling me: "you don't take that thing off road do you, because they are not made for that"

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The most repeated sentence I heard from my dealer was "I'm sorry YOU are not happy with our service" so it was still my fault.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 9:48 am 
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JIMMY JEEP wrote:
What did you do on your service ?,and what parts did you use?. And dont it give ya a sense of satisfaction doing jobs yourself you would normally be paying for .


Yes, it's a good feeling especially as it took care of a big frustration I suffered for years.

I changed the oil and replaced the dealer cunk with Amsoil series 3000 synthetic heavy duty diesel oil.
I changed the rear diff fluid with Redline 75W90 gear oil and Redline friction modifier.
I changed the front diff fluid with Redline Lightweight shockproof gear oil.
I changed the fuel and oil filter and I had to use Mopar for that.

I cleaned the airfilter.

I had the front discs replaced and brake fluid changed by my local brake guy, I got the discs from 4WheelParts in Germany.

I checked the gearbox and transfere case levels and I also checked all the rubery bits around the axles for splits

I also rotated the tyres, checked for pressure and wear and filled the spare to 35 psi (was down to 18 psi, thanks dealer for checking that one over the years)

I paid just under £300 for all this, If I had this done by a dealer it would have been way over £800 as they charge over £85 an Hour and with my last dealer experiece in mind, I would have to do half of it over again myself.

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The most repeated sentence I heard from my dealer was "I'm sorry YOU are not happy with our service" so it was still my fault.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 10:09 am 
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What did you do on your service ?,and what parts did you use?. And dont it give ya a sense of satisfaction doing jobs yourself you would normally be paying for .

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 2:50 pm 
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I do all my own engine servicing and discs and pads ect, but ive not done oil changes in diff's and gearbox as yet , getting close to needing doing though,was it pretty straight forward?.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 4:22 am 
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It's easy when you know what you are doing.

The front diff is extremely easy, you have to get the front skid of, four bolts, loosen the rear two to half way and loosen the front ones all the way, the skid will slide forwards.

first open the filler hole and than the bottom drain plug, after draining put the drain plug back in (check the little rubber washer for damage first) and use a little pump or squeeze bottle to get the new oil in, fill it to the bottom of the hole.

The rear is a bit more work, you take all the bolts of the rear bulb, than put a bucket under there and use a big screwdriver (or crowbar), but very carefully, to loosen the old RTV.

When the cap is off, let the oil drain until empty and clean the bottom part with a piece of kitchen paper towel, as all the dirt gathers at the bottom of the bulb.

Clean the cap and scrape the old RTV off and be careful not to scratch the surface, I used a scraper to get paint from windows.
Put new RTV all round and around every bolt hole and let dry for 20-30 min.

Cover the inside of the bulb with kitchen paper and also scrape the RTV off.

Then put the cap onto the bulb without shifting it, tighten the bolts crosswise (like you do on the wheels) and wait for an hour, than use a squeeze bottle/pump to fill the rear with fluid AND DON'T FORGET THE FRICTION MODIFIER!!!!!!!!!

Fill it up to the bottom of the filler hole.

You need:
2.08L of 75W90 (if you tow 75W140)for the rear and a bottle of friction modifier.
1.24L of 75W140 for the front.
RTV.
Plenty of coffee while you wait for the RTV to dry and a dog to play with.

Some rear diff oils have friction modifier already in them like the Redline I used but even then I need 1/2 a bottle of friction modifier to keep things in check back there.

When you are done you will be all smelly and happy (my god, that stuff stinks)

Have not done the gearbox and transfere case yet but it looks like it's just a case of draining and filling like the front diff.
If you have an auto shifter the gearbox oil change is a bit more complicated though.

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The most repeated sentence I heard from my dealer was "I'm sorry YOU are not happy with our service" so it was still my fault.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 8:21 am 
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Good wright up Dutchy, very helpfull.

Love the part about the coffee and the dog :D

On an auto gearbox you need to drop the oilpan in order to change the interior filter.

And the transfercase holds ATF fluid as well.

Check this:

http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Jeep_Liberty/Fluid_Capacities_%26_Intervals[/url]

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 9:05 am 
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Dutchy wrote:
.
Plenty of coffee while you wait for the RTV to dry and a dog to play with.

.


Nice write up. I got a lot of coffee but what kind of dog do I need to get........hehe

I try to do as much as I can myself too. So far mine has been to the dealer twice. LBJ's and leaky pinion seal replaced under warrenty by the dealer. So I dread the day something happens I can't fix.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 12:02 pm 
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Albert wrote:
Dutchy wrote:
.
Plenty of coffee while you wait for the RTV to dry and a dog to play with.

.


Nice write up. I got a lot of coffee but what kind of dog do I need to get........hehe

I try to do as much as I can myself too. So far mine has been to the dealer twice. LBJ's and leaky pinion seal replaced under warrenty by the dealer. So I dread the day something happens I can't fix.


In my case a short haired red Border Collie, but as long as it is not a shitsu you should be fine (shitsu's are easy to mistake for a cleaning cloth with all the obvious troubles) :D

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The most repeated sentence I heard from my dealer was "I'm sorry YOU are not happy with our service" so it was still my fault.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2008 11:20 am 
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Where'd you get the Amsoil oil?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 5:27 am 
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I got it from the internet from www.performanceoilsltd.co.uk.

Autoshops up here are rare and far between and they sell rubbish for Vectra's and Mondeo's, if you need something better you have to get it from England or from Germany.

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The most repeated sentence I heard from my dealer was "I'm sorry YOU are not happy with our service" so it was still my fault.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:02 pm 
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Thanks Dutchy - I'll get mine from there. It looks like they also do the oil filter - I read on the Amsoil website that they recommend the 034.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 4:32 pm 
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I don't see it mentioned but isn't the friction modifier additive only required if you have a limited slip locker in your axle?

I haven't really done any maintenance on my Libby yet. It's covered under an extended warranty and its just as simple to let them crawl under it. It's too darn cold right now.

I abuse my YJ a lot more than my Libby. When I drain the diffs in it I look for metal particles or water contamination in the fluid. Signs that I may have more repairs to do.

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