yes sorry I didn't specify that

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Bill and the divided Danette

2009 Liberty Sport 4x4
Sky Slider
Factory Tow Package
Super Expensive Gutter Screen Grill Inserts
24" of PPF on the front
Factory skids
AEM intake, Scanguage II
Skink Super Sliders, 3/8" Boiler Shims
Stops here for now....baby here!!!

So.... What's up? Did anyone put something like this in the rear cargo area?

Diggerrrrr????? Where you at? I know you had to have gotten bored one of those days!??

Wheres that power wire you spoke of?


On this topic, What would the gurus say, would be the biggest inverter one could install, or need in said Jeep?

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-08 KK Bright Silver Met.
Mopar front tow hooks,
Mopar Skids
Curt class III/IV hitch, and wireing
O.K. Offroad steel reciever shackle
Zune 80 gig for the tunes,
(Do Jeep slush mats count?)
Life size Amstaff terrier bobble head in rear seat

I haven't played with this idea yet

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2008 KK Liberty Sport NIGHT OPS EDITION + GILLS
OEM & Custom Skids - Factory Tow Package - Rock Lizard Skink Super Sliders
Prototype JBA 4 Inch Lift - JBA UCA's - Flowmaster Super 44 OR - Whacked Resonator
Jet Stage 2 - RL Gecko Basket Rack - Custom Winch Bumper - Recon 10.5K Winch

i'm working on this idea... just need some money and some warm weather haha

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08 Revenge- Rock Lizard (Skink Sliders & Gecko Roof Rails), High Clearance Trimmed Front Bumper, Mopar skids, Riddler Diff Cover, JBA (5.5 Arms, 6" rear Springs, Front Adjust-A-Struts), 32" DuraTracs, Superior 4.56's, Front & Rear ARB Lockers, Fastman Throttle Body, AEM Intake, Hypertech Tune, Custom Ram Air, RunCool Louvers

But, what would you say the biggest one the KK could handle?
without adding anything (another battery, etc.)

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-08 KK Bright Silver Met.
Mopar front tow hooks,
Mopar Skids
Curt class III/IV hitch, and wireing
O.K. Offroad steel reciever shackle
Zune 80 gig for the tunes,
(Do Jeep slush mats count?)
Life size Amstaff terrier bobble head in rear seat

Anyone have any more info on this? Anyone ever do a write-up?

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2008 Jeep Liberty (KK) Ltd

Sorry that I dont have photos for this, but here is a little more specific quick guide write up. I must explain that you DO NOT need to use the particular power inverter that I used. Mine was a black and decker with an electronic switch on the top. I recommend not using any power inverter with an electronic switch. Use one with a single pole, single throw, on/off switch that toggles and stays in its position. I cannot stress this enough. That was my biggest frustration with this particular unit.
I will be getting a bigger unit, because the upgrade on bigger units is easier. I would definitely use an inverter that has the toggle switch ON THE OUTLET COVER for a much easier install, now that I look back.

tools needed:
flathead screwdriver
utility knife with new blade
drill with 1/4" bit
power inverter of your choice
heavy guage wire (at least 8-10) for the larger current load
some 1/2" rubber tubing and foam tape(or another sealant)

1. disconnect the battery.
2. take cover off of back using the screwdriver. it is just snapped onto the back. easy to get to, but be careful not to mark up the console with the screwdriver.
3. disassemble your particular inverter and use the outlet cover as your template. center on the back cover. the hole for this will be cut with the utility knife to make it centered. make sure that you dont cut the hole too large. you CANNOT undo your cut. you have to be able to screw the outlet onto the cover.
4. remove the old inverter.
5. fish the new cable through with the old wire and connect to large power cables in console. (if anyone is brave enough to do all this with this writeup, please take photos since I stress my time just filling this quick guide up)
7.dismantle the inverter outlet cover and you will have to figure the best way to keep as much wire as possible, so you can wire nut it later to longer wiring.
6. cut holes just large enough for the rubber tubing in both the right and left side vent duct that is run through the console to the back seats. Install two tubes into the holes, then seal it up with foam, mastic tape, silicone, etc. These are for extra cooling for such a large inverter. Just lay and secure them so they are blowing directly onto the side of the inverter that the cooling air is sucked from (depends on fan direction). do not place these tubes directly on the fan so you do not burn up the fan and destroy the intended cooling flow.
7. mount the new inverter and use the screw terminals to connect the power cables (most will have power cable screws on the back of it).
8. connect the inverter to the front outlet (wire nut and pvc tape all the intermediate wire connections)
9. If ALL connections are verified to be insulated properly, connect the battery up.

I know that if I were more focused on my jeep projects that I would be able to give a better tutorial, but if/when I add an even bigger one, I promise to document it all with photos and to repost, but that could be quite some time. Money and time are low.

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Photographer and Jeeper, Ken.
08 KK Sport
Self-Built Crossbars.

I don't have the original outlet or the button on the main console, can I follow this tutorial?

How could the factory inverter be added to a 2012 liberty KK that didn't come with one stock ?

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2012 KK Bright White
ATH Roof Rails-K&N Intake-4.7 Throttle Upgrade-Custom Leather Seats

I plan on mounting the 300W I got for Christmas somewhere in the trunk, I'll probably do a write-up for it. This way I can charge my batteries for the power tools. (Charger only needs 90W).

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Custom Bumper & Rock Rails-JBA 4.5" Lift-Custom 4.5" HD Springs-16x8 M13 Rims-265/75 Pro Comp MT2s-Yukon 4.56s-Front DTT-Rear OX Air Locker

I have a battery bank in the back of my Jeep for my inverter. now its only a 400 watt, but its main use is intended for camping. ive used it before with a 2 day power outage. lasted all 48 of those hours. I also installed a black and silver power strip on the back of the passenger side seat in the trunk. best of all its all temporary. when the strip gets removed just brush the "carpet" on the seat and the holes disappear. id rather not hack up my jeep if I don't have to. plus the birds nest of wires are in the rear, and the cabin still looks stock.

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2012 Jeep Liberty KK 109k miles and stong
4" lift.
Gen 5.5 A-Arms
Maxxis 31x10.50x15
ATS42rle

what I did was put 3 sets of batteries and the inverter in a battery box to make it portable. you could just run a set of 12 gauge wire or even 14 gauge wire to the rear with this set up. 12 gauge is really just over kill with this set up. 14 gauge is really the sweet spot if you use this plan. 14 gauge can handle 15A, the distance it is run in the jeep would limit the current rating to around 10 or so amps. the 12 gauge would be if you had the inverter on almost all the time with a 150w load or more for around an hour or more. that would be after those 3 batteries were just about empty.

my boxes weigh about 75lbs each. if you do plan to use this idea using the thinner gauge wire will be completely fine since you'd have a bank of batteries in line before the battery in the engine bay.

I have a black bungee holding it in place. with the off-roading the boxes have been through, they don't move one bit vertically. the boxes do move very slightly horizontally.


here's what it looks like out of the back. the silver component on the top is the charge controller for the solar panel.

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2012 Jeep Liberty KK 109k miles and stong
4" lift.
Gen 5.5 A-Arms
Maxxis 31x10.50x15
ATS42rle