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 Post subject: HOW TO: Fix stuck HVAC mode door\actuator
PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 8:10 pm 
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There are a few other topics on this issue already here. I went though and snapped some pics as I went, so hopefully these will help someone.

This how-to assumes you already know you have an issue with the mode door linkage, either the door is stuck or the linkage popped off the track. Refer to the following how-tos for more info:

Blend Door Actuator diagnostic & fix - KKomodo & Scar0 - viewtopic.php?f=88&t=76917
Blend Door Actuator Motor replacement - joeS - viewtopic.php?f=88&t=72544
Center Dash Bezel (around radio) removal - Diggerfreek - viewtopic.php?f=104&t=36253

1: Remove drivers side knee bolster, kick panel (2 scrivets), center bezel, and radio (4 philips head screws)

2: Remove blend and mode door actuators. (4 T20 screws)

3: Remove actuator shield (3 T20 screws)
Image

4: Remove mode door actuator linkage if it didn't fall off
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5: Remove center vent (3 philips screws) and stick hand down to reach door. Try and move it to get unstuck.
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6: Try to turn the two gears on the side of the HVAC housing. if they turn freely, you're good.

7: Put the smaller/lower of the two white arms on the housing, be sure to mesh the big tooth on the gear to the slot in the arm.

8: Put the bigger/upper arm into the outer track of the cam (spline side out). Carefully move the assembly into position and place the cam on the housing. Make sure the lower arm goes into the back slot on the cam and the bigger arm meshes correctly with its gear.
Image

9: Carefully put the shield back on, wouldn't want to knock of the actuator we worked so hard to align. Do not test the linkage until the shield is back on. They will fall off and you will get angry. :furious:

10: Once the shield is back on and tight, move the linkage by hand to make sure it moves freely. If so, you can put everything back together, if not, you'll have to take everything apart and make sure the linakge is put together right. :banghead:

11: If it still doesn't move, chances are something is very broken. You'll probably need either new linkage parts or a new HVAC housing.

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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO: Fix stuck HVAC mode door\actuator
PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 8:26 pm 
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Nice write up!

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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO: Fix stuck HVAC mode door\actuator
PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 9:00 pm 
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Fantastic Job! This is an issue that seems to be cropping up on more and more KK's as they age. Glad to have the how-to for reference in case it happens to mine.

P.S. Added this to the How-To's Index. :mrgreen:

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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO: Fix stuck HVAC mode door\actuator
PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2016 10:26 am 
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This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!


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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO: Fix stuck HVAC mode door\actuator
PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2016 2:07 pm 
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Great job. Thanks for sharing this i was looking for such kind of information.

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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO: Fix stuck HVAC mode door\actuator
PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2017 11:30 pm 
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Is this the reason why I would have no air flow coming out of floor vents?


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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO: Fix stuck HVAC mode door\actuator
PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2017 8:58 pm 
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I need the diagram of the lower gear placement for actuator below in picture


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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO: Fix stuck HVAC mode door\actuator
PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2018 6:13 pm 
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Well, I think the unthinkable has happened. After hearing a loud *POP* the HVAC mode is stuck on feet.

Image

I took this photo after removing the mode door actuator. The actuator seems to work fine. The big black gear on the HVAC distribution box seems broken though. You might have to zoom in to see it, but it looks shattered.

So, is a new HVAC distribution box and a complete dash disassemble in my future? :POPCORN:

The distribution box (#8 in the diagram):

Image

Link to it: https://www.factorymoparparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-distribution-box-68004022aa/?c=Zz1odmFjJnM9ZXZhcG9yYXRvci1hbmQtaGVhdGVyLWNvbXBvbmVudHMmaT1URzA3MDg1NSZyPTgmYT1qZWVwJm89bGliZXJ0eSZ5PTIwMDgmdD1zcG9ydCZlPTMtN2wtdjYtZ2Fz

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Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs 245/75/R16
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Trailer build thread: viewtopic.php?f=72&t=77997


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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO: Fix stuck HVAC mode door\actuator
PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2018 6:48 pm 
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https://youtu.be/o-WoL0xRicU

Video explanation of why this happens and what has to be done to fix it.

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Jeepin By Al 4" Lift Kit
Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs 245/75/R16
Full MOPAR skid plates
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AtTheHelm Front Recovery System

Trailer build thread: viewtopic.php?f=72&t=77997


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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO: Fix stuck HVAC mode door\actuator
PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2018 4:12 pm 
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After watching some YouTube videos about dash disassembly for heater core replacement (since the heater core is inside the distribution box that needs replacing), I think I’m going to save up and have this done professionally. The A/C compressor is beginning to fail also (unrelated but also expensive) so I’ll try to get those jobs done at the same time, later this summer.

A good dash removal video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-6qfLs1ge5Q

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2008 Liberty Sport 4x4 Automatic
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Jeepin By Al 4" Lift Kit
Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs 245/75/R16
Full MOPAR skid plates
Rock Lizard Skink Super Sliders
AtTheHelm Front Recovery System

Trailer build thread: viewtopic.php?f=72&t=77997


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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO: Fix stuck HVAC mode door\actuator
PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2018 2:30 pm 
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I’m going to post up my experience to enhance the already excellent information here. Maybe these details will help someone down the line. I ended up doing the job myself to save $1000+ in labor costs. Here are some pics to prove it really happened.

This is the air distribution box that I put in. It’s new from Mopar. The new heater core goes inside of it, and I’m reusing the actuators and plastic attachments from the old box.
Image

This is the seal kit. Since I didn’t also remove the AC evaporator unit I didn’t use everything in this kit, but it was needed for the distribution box and heater core pipes to make a good seal.
Image

I did the surgical procedure on my Jeep in my parents’ barn. This is not a project that can be done while parked on the street as it takes several days and there are many interior trim parts to lay out in an organized fashion so you can remember where everything goes.
Image

First, disconnect your battery for 30 minutes before starting the project to protect your airbag system.

I started with the bezel around the radio and climate controls. You can see I labeled every wiring pigtail so I knew where it goes for reassembly.
Image

Center console was next. I also taped the screws and other hardware to the parts they belonged to, so that there were no stray screws or bolts at the end of the process.
Image

I discovered why my parking brake doesn’t work very well. This will be a future project.
Image

Removing dash trim. Follow the instructions in the video & this Lost how-to.
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Image

Radio out.
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Speedometer out.
Image

Airbag out.
Image

Steering wheel & clockspring out.
Image

Dash ready to come out.
Image

Dash out. You can see the air distribution box now.
Image

Before removing the air box you’ll need to remove the heater hoses from it inside the engine compartment.

Air distribution box. Evil on the left/top. Good on the right/bottom.
Image

The hardware from the old box got transplanted over to the new. The exception was I replaced the 10 year old heater core with a new one since I was in there already.
Image

The plastic holding the heater core pipes is part of what gets transplanted over.
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I made sure I knew what settings I left the climate controls in (full cold, all feet) so that I could install both actuators on the new distribution box and verify that the flaps were in those positions. No climate control recalibration was needed at the Jeep garage, as it works exactly as it should. (Save $100).

The doors on the old box were glued shut by black goo that was made of melted rubber insulation. This causes the plastic gears on the box to fail. The new one will eventually have the same problem but hopefully I will get another 10 years out of it.
Image

New box assembled and ready to go back in.
Image

Getting it correctly in position without removing the entire AC unit was challenging, mostly because the box refused to seat properly into these 2 plastic tabs in the back. The ultimate solution (and I tried all sorts of things) was to prop up the tabs with a chair rung under them (any dowel will do) so that the box tabs could slide into the holes. Once they went in, I slid the rung out to the left and seated the rest of the box. This may not make sense until you see it, but if you ever do this job you’ll know what I mean.
Image

Reassembly took only a few hours since I had all the parts layed out logically on the barn floor, screws and bolts taped to them, and all the wire harnesses were labeled.
Image

The steering wheel went on last.
Image

Reconnected the battery and... she lives!!!
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Lastly I made sure the heater hoses were connected in the engine compartment and ran the engine for a while with the radiator cap off to get out the air bubbles in the cooling system. The water pump pushed hot coolant into the heater core so I could feel heat coming out the vents after the engine reached operating temperature. I topped off the coolant with HOAT (use Mopar or Zerex G05) and kept an eye on it for several days. No problems and it all works now like when the Jeep was new!

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2008 Liberty Sport 4x4 Automatic
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Jeepin By Al 4" Lift Kit
Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs 245/75/R16
Full MOPAR skid plates
Rock Lizard Skink Super Sliders
AtTheHelm Front Recovery System

Trailer build thread: viewtopic.php?f=72&t=77997


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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO: Fix stuck HVAC mode door\actuator
PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2018 10:40 pm 
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Good Job!
Replacing a heater core on most any vehicle is truly a PITA job that would make a preacher cuss. :furious:
Heck, I traded one vehicle, a car, just so I would not have to replace the AC evaporator core. Book listed 14 hours to change it out. :shock:
After I traded it, dealer mechanic who I knew, it took him 3 days to change it out. He give me heck for trading it in.... :ROTFL:

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