I'm a CRD newbie, but a fairly experienced general mechanic. Diagnosing your symptoms seems allowably universal. Did the vibration come-on suddenly or gradually? Is it present while accelerating, cruising and/or braking? If it's a braking-only vibration then its almost certainly brake-component related (duh): pads/rotor/caliper/bracket/hardware.
In any event, in diagnostic order of likely cause of intense vibration (imo): A. Wheel balance B. Wheel bearing; C. CV-shaft D. Brake components E. Front diff. F. Front axle.
Brake-rotor/bracket trauma could also cause cruise-vibration, but it would still be more pronounced while braking. If it appeared suddenly then the primary suspects are balance, bearing or component trauma (or maybe CV half-shaft or front axle). If it has worsened more gradually, your diff may be done. It's pumpkin is directly ahead of the (US) driver, so the low-rumble of a dying diff could conceivably sound like a front-left wheel issue. However, dying diffs usually generate more noise than vibration.
Start cheapest; balance all four wheels. While they have the wheels off, have THEM give you a diagnostic opinion of ALL your wheel bearings, brake components, CV and diff. Don't pay for an alignment unless the shop says its a big part of your vibration problem (unlikely) because if any control-arm bushings (etc) need to be replaced you'll have to perform a post-op alignment anyway.
Or, try to DIY the diagnosis. Remove the Left Front brake pads, caliper and rotor (to eliminate potential rotational noise/resistance) and then feel and listen to your wheel bearing while hand-rotating; if it's toast it should present a fairly obvious grinding sound and/or play localized at the hub. I'm not sure if Libby's have replaceable bearings or if it's necessary to purchase an entire replacement hub. I just got a quote of $120 (azone) for a complete remanned hub (including new lower ball-joint, stab-bar bushing and wheel-bearing). Regarding CV's, if you grab the half-shaft and there's side-to-side play (= front-to-rear) it is toast, whereas a fair amount of in-out play (=left-to-right) is normal. If it's okay it should rotate smoothly and quietly. If the bearing & CV both rotate smoothly and quietly, perform a visual inspection of the brake components. Any components or hardware obviously damaged or missing? Inspect the rotor for burns, pitting, cracks etc. If in doubt, most parts stores will inspect them for you, mic them for thickness and if necessary (and there's sufficient 'meat' on them) they'll machine "turn" them for $5-15/per. Advisable to turn as pairs, fronts or rears.
Anyway, those are some basic diagnostic steps for t-shooting a vibration issue. I'm sure others can and will add. Good Luck
PS- I think when the motor-mounts on these go south they may yield vibration but I'm not certain.
_________________ '15: bought '05 w/138k. '16: HG/Rockers/ARPs/Thermo/H20pump/TbeltKit/ Seals/ Mounts/Kennedy fuel pump. '17: bought manual Gas donor for its' ARB F/R Airlockers, OME 2.5" lift (gas-rated), JBA UCAs, ARB bumper. '19: Trans w/Suncoast/Transgo/HDdiscs, new OME CRD-rated lift, electric tri-fan setup, BlackMagics/Centric Premiums, Airbags.
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