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 Post subject: Changing 2012 kk rusted oil pans
PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2018 8:44 am 
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So as the titles stste I have a 2012 with rusty oil pan and trans Oil pan. Just curious if anyone else has done either of these changes. I am ordering all mopar replacement parts today from rockauto. Also what is the procedure for the trans pan and filter change. Do I have to run flush fluid through it when changing the fluid and filter. Also do I have to drain the torque converter and how do I drain the torque converter. Also where do I get a service tool since the jackwads that made this didnt want anyone to have a dipstick for their trans fluid.

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 Post subject: Re: Changing 2012 kk rusted oil pans
PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2018 2:01 pm 
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Tjh9100 wrote:
So as the titles stste I have a 2012 with rusty oil pan and trans Oil pan. Just curious if anyone else has done either of these changes. I am ordering all mopar replacement parts today from rockauto. Also what is the procedure for the trans pan and filter change. Do I have to run flush fluid through it when changing the fluid and filter. Also do I have to drain the torque converter and how do I drain the torque converter. Also where do I get a service tool since the jackwads that made this didnt want anyone to have a dipstick for their trans fluid.

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Have serviced the transmission. Pan was rotten and leaking. Bought and aftermarket pan with a drain plug. New Wix filter and rtv sealed. Took about 6 quarts if I recall, maybe a bit more to refill. Probably could go further flushing and draining but didn’t.

As for the oil pan, it is in need of changing but from what I’ve seen it appears either the front axel needs dropped or the engine pulled. Not sure but it looks to be a paint to do.

Seems the prep on these pans was crap. The coating is bubbled like it’s rusted under the powder coat. Maybe someone with oil pan experience on these can chime in before I do mine too.


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 Post subject: Re: Changing 2012 kk rusted oil pans
PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2018 2:07 pm 
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I got a buddy printing out the dealer replacement instructions for me. I beleive I need to lift the engine and drop the craddle at the same time. As for the trans I dont usually touch them so I'm a little worried about that. I bought the extended warranty for the jeep when I bought it and it will not cover it because it is rusty. They said that is in the exclusions.what a waste of money.

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 Post subject: Re: Changing 2012 kk rusted oil pans
PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2018 11:30 am 
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Just a heads up I did this a couple weeks back and it's not worth trying to take shortcuts to get it done. Drop the cradle and raise the motor it will be the quickest you will be able to get it done without ripping everything anything apart you dont need to. Driver side motor is a bit of a pain to loosen the bolt but passenger side is easy. Most of the bolts are easily accessible. When you get all your pan bolts out the gasket sticks to the pan and engine really bad so I had to use a flat head around the pan to separate it. You have two bolts holding the gasket and pick up tube to the bottom of the engine and one more bolt holding the end of the pick up tube into the block. Make sure you mark where the cradle meets the body so you can line it up exactly where you dropped it from.

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 Post subject: Re: Changing 2012 kk rusted oil pans
PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2018 4:14 pm 
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Probably not for everyone but my method was to cut the crossmember out replace the pan weld the crossmember back in. Turned a multiple hour job into a 45 min one.


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 Post subject: Re: Changing 2012 kk rusted oil pans
PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2019 3:19 am 
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Which aftermarket pan is the best? Need to change mine also.


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 Post subject: Re: Changing 2012 kk rusted oil pans
PostPosted: Fri Jul 05, 2019 2:03 pm 
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Location: Detroit
cmaje72 wrote:
Probably not for everyone but my method was to cut the crossmember out replace the pan weld the crossmember back in. Turned a multiple hour job into a 45 min one.



Wow. When my 09 pan rusted, dealer said they couldn't do anything till it leaked. A year later, it started showing signs of leakage. Dealer replaced it under it's lifetime warranty. They did have to take off the skid plate (tranny) I'm sure but didn't think it would be that big of a deal. Didn't cost me anything. I had to buy a serp belt once because a tensioner pulley was making noise so they replaced that and went ahead and replaced my water pump too. And the front drive shaft was replaced because the boot near the transfer case had a little split in it. Cost me nothing. Can't say the same about the brakes though. I've had some odd issues with those babies. :furious:

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12k lb winch - BadLands
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