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 Post subject: some pictures to help the discussion.....
PostPosted: Tue Oct 25, 2005 7:14 pm 
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these pictures are the front passenger suspension on my '04 sport 4x4....

the first picture shows the assembled supspension....the brake rotor on the left side of the picture is attached to a cast steering knuckle...the knuckle is the large rust-brown piece just to the right of the inside of the brake rotor...

Image

the knuckle is designed to allow the splined end of the constant velocity jointed axle shaft to pass through it's center where the shaft then drives the rotor/wheel....the knuckle is also solidly attached through the upper and lower ball joints and the steering tie rod ball joint....the upper and lower joints allow the knuckle to turn left and right as the steering tie rod pulls or pushes....

the upper ball joint is an integral part of the upper control arm....the shaft of this ball joint is tapered and fits snug into a hole drilled into the top arm of the steering knuckle and is fastened with a locking nut...this next picture shows the strut spring coming very close to the upper ball joint at full extension of the suspension....

Image


the lower ball joint is pressed into the bottom of the steering knuckle...it can be removed and replaced when necessary....the tapered ball joint shaft passes down through the hole in the lower control arm and is fastened with a locking nut....

a view from the front....
Image

and a view from the rear....
Image

in this last picture I have removed the brake rotor and the steering knuckle...you can see how the lower ball joint is attached to the knuckle....

Image


when the ball joint has failed, some drive it out with a hammer since it doesn't matter that it will damage it further....since I've not done this particular repair yet, that's all I am qualified to say here....you don't have to purchase a new lower ball joint from the dealer....there are aftermarket parts available....upper ball joint failure is repaired by replacing the entire upper control arm....this also is available in the aftermarket....

I'm only shade tree qualified, so please correct anything that I've described....(hope this is okay, clint...)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 25, 2005 8:55 pm 
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so that Moog joint looks like a beefy, serviceable version of our ball joints. That right? Interesting.

If that's the case, why ever replace with OEM? I don't really want them to fail on me just on the hopes that when they do, it's covered under warranty!

Opinions welcome.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 25, 2005 9:21 pm 
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SFA doesn't snap at the ball joint
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dirtyKJ Wrote:
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Is it better to go with this or to stick with the OEM one and have them service it every now and then?


Sorry, but the OEM is sealed and not serviceable. (it is what DC would call Lifetime part) yeah, short lifetime huh... My 2 sets, yep 2, lasted about 21000 miles each set! Dealer says, sorry your warranty is up, and replacement parts are only covered 12 months or 12000 miles, oh well, cheaper to get the MOOG service them myself, and hope they last longer, heck if only 40000miles, then it will save me money since that woulda been 2 more sets of the TRW ones.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 25, 2005 9:48 pm 
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Here is a link that has them listed for $52.79. I can't remember where I actually got mine from. I know I have the paperwork somewhere. But, this price is very close to what I paid and I didn't have to pay shipping and had them in a couple of days.

https://www.rockauto.com/applet3.html

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 25, 2005 10:00 pm 
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What is the best way to press out or in the ball joints?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2005 7:36 am 
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I was able to use a press at my work. You may be able to press them out with a good sized C-Clamp. I know that mine was pretty well in there and the press may it so much easier.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2005 1:56 pm 
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How do you request this of the dealer? Ask them to inspect the ball joints? Is there a secret phrase you ought to use? I just asked for inspection of the lower ball joints in my wife's Libby (it's 27K and ready for service anyway).

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2005 4:48 pm 
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When I have had mine replaced under warranty, I was actually trying to get an alignment when it was noticed and took it to the dealer to inform them of exactly that. That while in for an alignment the shop noticed that the ball joints have play in them and they will not warranty the alignment until they have been replaced. Took it to the dealer and informed them of the problem, they did their inspection and found that they did need to be replaced and did it all under warranty. I have heard that it depends on the dealer. Some have mentioned that they will try to blame the faulty joints on a lift if you have one. Only had that happen once and took it to another dealer and done no problems.

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 Post subject: what kind of warranty would this be listed as?
PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 6:47 am 
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Location: L.O.S.T. on the Blue Ridge Parkway - Western NC
on 2004 u have 30K miles or 3 yrs.. on bumper to bumper then you have 70K or 7 yrs drivetrain.. so my question is would this be covered? or could you state that you noticed the problem earlier on since your tires were showing wear even when you had the dealer do tire rotation??

the local dealer here is pretty good.. we live in a small town and everyone knows everyone.. i have never had any probs w/anything yet.. they know my vehicle.. i called a few weeks ago when i was at 34K cause i was going to go in and get my tranny and both diffs flushed and when i called they were swamped with tourist vehicles including a engine overhaul and trasmission rebuild so they couldnt get me in.. i wonder if i could use that and say i was going to get my ball joints checked at same time but now i am at 39K miles...

so which warranty would this be covered under.. and if its not covered.. get the aftermarket ones and have someone isntall them or myself..then get new alignment

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 8:43 am 
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Just to clarify to those who are still looking for the recall:

All 2002's were recalled for an inspection of the LBJ and installation of a Heat Shield, and replacement of the ball joint. Early 2003's (up untill I wanna say March or April) were recalled as well for an inspection, replacement of heat shield, and replacement of LBJ IF NECESSARY. The 02's definately got new ones, the 03's only got new ones if they needed to be replaced.

Boy am I glad this thread has popped up. This would explain the shaking I have in my wheel at highway speeds, and possibly my shaking while turning and braking. I tried balancing the tires and that didn't make a difference. I am definately checking mine this weekend and If I find any play in them it's going straight to the dealer Monday Morning. I'm at 27K on a late 2003 model, bone stock. Still even got the crap years on. Pretty scary considering two weeks ago I was comin home on the highway runnin 80mph for the better part of an hour and a half.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 8:57 am 
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Recall went to build date 10/02 as I recall for replacement. Mine is 12/02 so I got heat shields and a checkup. I just got it aligned so I'm assuming they're ok.

From what I read, they only fail after the rubber has failed and the lubricant has left. The rubber fails due to excessive heat. Right?

So if you're not feeling anything funny, and see no sighs of wear or leaking lube, we should be fine? Mine feels ok, and it passed that visual from dealer 2 years ago, but man, I drive on the highway at 80mph on a regular basis for work (yes, I'm a movie stunt drive, ok! No comments on my driving habbits please) so I'd REALLY hate to have my BJ's fail on me! Or worse, when my two kids are in the car!

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Last edited by AdamIsAdam on Thu Oct 27, 2005 9:27 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 9:02 am 
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Well, I had her in the dealership yesterday to have the ball joints checked out (I'm at 58k, the recall was done around 24k).. They said they would warranty them if there was a problem.. Well, they checked out fine, and I got it in writing. No charge for the checkup, and I borrowed my father in laws truck for the day, so nothing lost..

At least I have it in writing if they fail.. I think I'll go with the Moogs when I get it lifted (hopefully within the next 12 months)..

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 9:08 am 
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I've got a May 03 build date and mine was NOT part of the recall. I coulda sworn it was only early 03's. Might just hit up the dealer monday morning after all.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 9:28 am 
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OOOOOOOOOOPS!

So sorry. I was typing with my excessively fat fingers. I meant to say 02 not 03. The months were correct. I fixed my post above.

I bought my KJ in 2/03 so the build date couldn't have been 12/03. (Did I mention I'm a mathmatician too?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 10:43 am 
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Hello all,
I'm new here. I have an red 04 Limited that has been making the rattling which I hear as well as feel in the steering column when I cut the wheel left or right typically. If I go all the way left or right it gets really loud and you cen really feel it. It's been doing this for a week or so now and I'm bringing it to the dealer Monday. My 04 has 41,000 miles on it.

I would imagine that replacement of the joints would be covered under the powertrain warranty? Yes/no?

1. How do I check the ball joints?

2. Even though my Liberty is an 04, it seems like this issue is affecting most models of the Liberty and not just 02-03's. Hs Jeep widened the recall to include other years?

Thanks all!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 12:21 pm 
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SFA doesn't snap at the ball joint
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Quote:
From what I read, they only fail after the rubber has failed and the lubricant has left. The rubber fails due to excessive heat. Right?


My rubber boots look fine, and I do not have grease everywhere indicating a failure of the boot. If you look at them, they look fine, until you lift it up anyway...

Also if you want to replace yours with the moogs, be sure that you can return them if you order them, Appearently Al has found that the old version of th K3199 replacement joint is not serviceable. He ordered 4 and only one came as a serviceable unit. So be sure you can return and try again.

As for how do you test the joint, SKRracing did a good post on the 1st page of this topic about 2/3rds down the page

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 1:07 pm 
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The powertrain warranty will most likely only cover the engine/trans/diffs/transfer case. The BTB covers all other stuff. Your dealer may work w/ you on it though if you mention, in a nice way, that you are aware of the problems others have had and that they have recalled the KJ because of ball joint problems. Go in armed with knowledge but be cool about it. Ticking them off by being cocky won't help your cause. Good luck. Mine is probably going in next week. Hopefuly they will be cool about it.

BTW, mentioning that LOST is featured in their new KJ brochure and that you are a member of the site might help. (?)
Might be Worth a try.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 1:12 pm 
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skrracing wrote:
Hope this helps to check them...
Place a floor jack under the lower control arm and jack the tire up about 3 in. off the ground.

Be very careful but place a pry bar of 2X4 under the tire.

Lift up and see if you feel any bump in the ball joint but also watch the ball joint. if you see any movement in the lower ball joint it should be replaces ASAP.

If it fails it will do a lot of damage but if it fails while going down the hwy or at any speed this could be a very serious problem.

Please guys... if you have over 30000 miles on your KJ check the lower ball joints. Later...Clint


Thanks! I thought I read the whole thread. DOn't know how I missed this description. I'll do this tonight.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 1:19 pm 
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i was told that you could also grab the tire at 10 and 2 o clock and push and pull and if there's a lot of play in the tire and yo ucan hear clunking then one of your ball joints is going....does this work? is it true?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 2:34 pm 
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SFA doesn't snap at the ball joint
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RKY, doing that will tell you if something is wrong if you can watch the ball joint and have real good eyes...

if you alter your hands maybe 10 and 4 or 2 and 7 and 12 and 6, then wobble the tire you can check yor hub bearings.

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