I tore my driver’s side CV boot, tried to patch it, but it didn’t really work, so I had to replace it. It tore during installing my lift, which is basically a frankelift. The OME struts have a wider lower spring perch, when pulling the clevis forks into place for the lower clevis bolt, the bottom plate pinches the CV boot near the first pleat, mucho bado. This tends to happen on a good amount of installs on the drivers side
This wasn’t a very difficult job, if you can do a lift, you can do this. It took me about 3.5 hours by myself (with lots of breaks to defrost myself). Hopefully all my terminology is correct.
What you will need:
Replacement CV Boot kit (got mine(EMPI) from JE Reels, included boot clamps and CV grease. $36)
21mm deep socket
19mm deep socket
35 mm axel nut socket
Snap Ring pliers
CV boot clamp pliers (make sure you get the right kind)
Wheel bearing grease
Wheel grinder (or some other cutting tool for the cv boot clamps)
1. Raise vehicle and support on jack stands
2. Remove tire
3. Remove axle nut w/ 35mm socket. I had my dad press on the brakes to keep the rotor from spinning. That’s all he did to help!
4. Remove lower sway bar link bolt
5. Remove UBJ nut
6. Remove LBJ nut
7. I removed the entire strut assembly as it got in the way a bit for step 10, and I didn’t want to risk ruining another boot while reinstalling the CV shaft.
8. Swing the steering knuckle out and towards the front bumper. A few LIGHT
taps on the axle shaft with a hammer while pulling the hub/steering knuckle out will help it slide out of the wheel hub. You will need to support the assembly as it is only being held in place with the tie rod and brake line. I supported it with a jack.
9. Using a crowbar, LIGHTLY
pry the CV shaft out of the differential. It doesn’t take much effort.
10. Slide the CV Shaft assembly all the way out.
11. Using the grinder, cut off the CV boot clamps. Be careful not to grind too much and cut into metal you are not supposed to!!
12. Cut the rubber boot off. you can see i still had a ton of grease left inside the joint and boot because i stopped driving vehicle immediately when i noticed the leak.
13. Wipe as much grease as possible off the joint
14. Release the spring clip and slide the shaft out of the joint assembly.
15. I didn’t completely remove the race, cage and balls since I didn’t drive the KJ after tearing the boot. If you got any dirt or debris inside the boot, you will need to fully disassemble and clean all parts.
16. Wrap the CV shaft splines with electrical tape and slide the new boot and boot clamps on. Then remove tape.
17. Tighten smaller CV Boot clamp
18. Use most supplied CV grease by squeezing it into the joint assembly .
19. Slid the shaft back into the joint assembly, making sure the spring clip snaps back into place on the shaft.
20. Slide the boot onto the housing to enclose the joint (I did not install the larger CV boot clamp at this point)
21. Apply a light coat of hub bearing grease onto the inner cv axle splines and insert into the differential. It will take a firm push to get the shaft all the way in.
22. Apply a light coat of hub bearing grease onto the outer cv axle splines and slide on the hub/steering assembly.
23. Reassemble the suspension, remembering the to include the axle nut.
24. I did not put on the larger CV boot clamp until I had the lower clevis bolt in place, due to the original reason for replacing the boot. WHILE PULLING THE CLEVIS FORK BACK INTO PLACE I SLID THE BOOT OFF THE HOUSING (towards the clevis fork) SO IT WOULDN’T GET PINCHED BY THE LOWER SPRING PERCH. (A tip from GregScuba)
25. After getting the lower clevis bolt in place, I squeezed the remaining CV joing grease into the boot, then securued the boot onto the housing using the CV boot clamp.
26. Finish reassembling suspension and your done!!!
2003 Sport 4x4
Patriot Blue w/ trail rash
Flex-Zilla 4" Lift
TrailRash hi-lift mounts
Other stuff you wish you had