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 Post subject: How To: Inner CV Boot Replacement
PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 9:55 pm 
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I tore my driver’s side CV boot, tried to patch it, but it didn’t really work, so I had to replace it. It tore during installing my lift, which is basically a frankelift. The OME struts have a wider lower spring perch, when pulling the clevis forks into place for the lower clevis bolt, the bottom plate pinches the CV boot near the first pleat, mucho bado. This tends to happen on a good amount of installs on the drivers side

This wasn’t a very difficult job, if you can do a lift, you can do this. It took me about 3.5 hours by myself (with lots of breaks to defrost myself). Hopefully all my terminology is correct.

What you will need:
Replacement CV Boot kit (got mine(EMPI) from JE Reels, included boot clamps and CV grease. $36)
21mm deep socket
19mm deep socket
35 mm axel nut socket
Snap Ring pliers
CV boot clamp pliers (make sure you get the right kind)
Wheel bearing grease
Wheel grinder (or some other cutting tool for the cv boot clamps)
Brake cleaner

1. Raise vehicle and support on jack stands
2. Remove tire
3. Remove axle nut w/ 35mm socket. I had my dad press on the brakes to keep the rotor from spinning. That’s all he did to help! :evil:
Image
4. Remove lower sway bar link bolt
5. Remove UBJ nut
6. Remove LBJ nut
7. I removed the entire strut assembly as it got in the way a bit for step 10, and I didn’t want to risk ruining another boot while reinstalling the CV shaft.
8. Swing the steering knuckle out and towards the front bumper. A few LIGHT taps on the axle shaft with a hammer while pulling the hub/steering knuckle out will help it slide out of the wheel hub. You will need to support the assembly as it is only being held in place with the tie rod and brake line. I supported it with a jack.
Image
9. Using a crowbar, LIGHTLY pry the CV shaft out of the differential. It doesn’t take much effort.
Image
10. Slide the CV Shaft assembly all the way out.
11. Using the grinder, cut off the CV boot clamps. Be careful not to grind too much and cut into metal you are not supposed to!!
12. Cut the rubber boot off. you can see i still had a ton of grease left inside the joint and boot because i stopped driving vehicle immediately when i noticed the leak.
Image
13. Wipe as much grease as possible off the joint
14. Release the spring clip and slide the shaft out of the joint assembly.
Image
15. I didn’t completely remove the race, cage and balls since I didn’t drive the KJ after tearing the boot. If you got any dirt or debris inside the boot, you will need to fully disassemble and clean all parts.
16. Wrap the CV shaft splines with electrical tape and slide the new boot and boot clamps on. Then remove tape.
17. Tighten smaller CV Boot clamp
18. Use most supplied CV grease by squeezing it into the joint assembly .
19. Slid the shaft back into the joint assembly, making sure the spring clip snaps back into place on the shaft.
20. Slide the boot onto the housing to enclose the joint (I did not install the larger CV boot clamp at this point)
21. Apply a light coat of hub bearing grease onto the inner cv axle splines and insert into the differential. It will take a firm push to get the shaft all the way in.
22. Apply a light coat of hub bearing grease onto the outer cv axle splines and slide on the hub/steering assembly.
23. Reassemble the suspension, remembering the to include the axle nut.
24. I did not put on the larger CV boot clamp until I had the lower clevis bolt in place, due to the original reason for replacing the boot. WHILE PULLING THE CLEVIS FORK BACK INTO PLACE I SLID THE BOOT OFF THE HOUSING (towards the clevis fork) SO IT WOULDN’T GET PINCHED BY THE LOWER SPRING PERCH. (A tip from GregScuba)
25. After getting the lower clevis bolt in place, I squeezed the remaining CV joing grease into the boot, then securued the boot onto the housing using the CV boot clamp.
26. Finish reassembling suspension and your done!!!

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Last edited by Jeep4me99 on Sat Jan 26, 2008 11:37 am, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 10:41 pm 
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Great write-up! Thanks for doing that, I've been wondering what that process looked like.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 9:39 pm 
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19. Slid the shaft back into the joint assembly, making sure the spring clip snaps back into place on the shaft.

I'm redoing my front end...for the last week! I am running into issues with this little clip. Is the shaft suppose to slide on easily? If so, then I may have something more major going on here.

I had a video of my wiggling the half shaft and thinking it was bad. Welp, I pull it off and it's not bad at all. Had a new one, so I put it on anyway. Didn't see the clip, so I'm back at it today to put that clip on. Shoulda checked here first I suppose. But anyway, I can't get the darn thing on and I'm not about to get the BFH out to influence it. I'll run out a take a picture, but I'm afraid my axle stubs might be worn if I was driving like that!

This look normal? Looks tapered to me:
Image
This is the old Half-Shaft spline, and looks dirty...but not stripped.
Image
And the clip, uncompressed. Looks a bit big doesn't it?
Image
I Slide the half shaft on, but not snap or anything like positive retainment. I didn't install this; Jeep/Chrysler did the driver side back in 2004 when I had LBJ failure, but this side should be as I bought it in 2002.

In case anyone is wondering, AutoZone has some halfshafts that are pretty cheap. Like $108 with no core charge, new. Also, don't skip the sway bar link removal. Back when I was doing my lift (5 years ago?) I figured I could skip that and fought getting the strut saddle back on. Dur...never occurred to me that it was the sway bar tension I was fighting.

(If I need to make a topic of my own, please tell me! I don't want to steal from this tutorial and it's specific attention)


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 10:12 pm 
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is that the passengers side? if so, i have no idea. i never did that side, but did you take the entire CV assembly out? but that clip you are tallking about is like the one on drivers side, it takes a bit of a PUSH to get the shaft all the way into place (atleast on the drivers side). i thought it looked big when i did mine to, just had to use a LIL bit of muscle. but again, not sure on passengers side.

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2003 Sport 4x4
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TrailRash hi-lift mounts
Other stuff you wish you had :-)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 10:37 pm 
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Chumly wrote:
19. Slid the shaft back into the joint assembly, making sure the spring clip snaps back into place on the shaft.

I'm redoing my front end...for the last week! I am running into issues with this little clip. Is the shaft suppose to slide on easily? If so, then I may have something more major going on here.

I had a video of my wiggling the half shaft and thinking it was bad. Welp, I pull it off and it's not bad at all. Had a new one, so I put it on anyway. Didn't see the clip, so I'm back at it today to put that clip on. Shoulda checked here first I suppose. But anyway, I can't get the darn thing on and I'm not about to get the BFH out to influence it. I'll run out a take a picture, but I'm afraid my axle stubs might be worn if I was driving like that!

This look normal? Looks tapered to me:
Image
This is the old Half-Shaft spline, and looks dirty...but not stripped.
Image
And the clip, uncompressed. Looks a bit big doesn't it?
Image
I Slide the half shaft on, but not snap or anything like positive retainment. I didn't install this; Jeep/Chrysler did the driver side back in 2004 when I had LBJ failure, but this side should be as I bought it in 2002.

In case anyone is wondering, AutoZone has some halfshafts that are pretty cheap. Like $108 with no core charge, new. Also, don't skip the sway bar link removal. Back when I was doing my lift (5 years ago?) I figured I could skip that and fought getting the strut saddle back on. Dur...never occurred to me that it was the sway bar tension I was fighting.

(If I need to make a topic of my own, please tell me! I don't want to steal from this tutorial and it's specific attention)
That inner axle shaft on the passenger side shoild come out with the rest of the CV.There are 2 different size clips,one for the drivers and one for the passenger.I had to replace mine and ordered a few of each.I was a real pain finding them.

From the looks of it you will need a new CV and inner shaft(which is not included with the new CV).

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 10:38 pm 
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Thanks for the reply Jeepme99 and tjkj2002. Really, I know my emergency is not everyone else's...but I'm in panic mode here. This is my main transportation basically, as I work on the Marine Base down here in San Diego and no other vehicle can get on base.

This is the passenger side. I took the entire CF off and I'm basically down to brass tacks currently. Everything is out, and the strut is just hanging there. I'm on jack stands and the jack is under the skid plate just in case, but I never do like muscling things around when my vehicles are on jacks. I'm a little guy and I'll have to throw myself around to get what may be called "LIL bit of muscle" :? About the most exertion I did was a slide hammer type movement trying to slam it on, then I stopped. I stopped because on the first slide in I got some metal shavings and stopped before I did anymore damage. I'm learning, slowly, when I'm being ignorant.

Lemme run back out and grab the clip for a picture. It's flat on the outside, V'd a bit on the inside. Have no idea if it's worn or what as there's really no real data out there except this very forum. Glad it's around, and full of tolerant people. BRB for an update...

Ok, Those new clips look more beefy than what I have...left over. Perhaps my clips are worn. It was retained in the old shaft quite well, but yours just look...beefier. Where do you get them from; Jeep?
My clips:
ImageImage
I note the v-shape to it which I thought were to help it ramp onto the axle stub, but your new units appear squared. I also see I may have worn mine by the slide hammer type install attempt. That's the shiney.

And I got the entire half-shaft:
Image

This has plagued me all week, and picked up a D30 and reading the SFA/SAS swaps you guys are doing. So much more conventional for my feeble mind, that it's sounding worth the time and money. One little stupid clip is giving me a headache. If that axle stub is in fact hosed, the removal and prepping for a stock fix is 1/4 of the way to the SAS. I'm secretly praying that it's bad :twisted:


Last edited by Chumly on Sat Mar 15, 2008 11:06 pm, edited 4 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 10:44 pm 
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The correct clip for the passenger side CV(both sides of the inner axle shaft) is painted pink to seperate it from the drivers side which is just plain steel.Here is a pic of the correct ones.
Image
There are 2 pictured above.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2008 8:41 pm 
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so what exactly does JBA and JE shave 3/8 of an inch off? is it the inner cup where the inner boot is clamped? do they cut 3/8 off where that boot clamps onto to give you a bit more angle?

can this be done with new stock cv axles by yourself?

thanks

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2008 11:27 am 
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tjkj2002 will have a better answer since he tried it - I was just reading the posts - but when he and Marty tried to install the 4" lift on TokoJoe's - JBA said trim the 3/8" and they couldn't find a machine shop that could do it - one tried and broke the cutting tool - basically the hardened steel was too hard.
So if you can cut it - then yes you can use the stock CV axles.
(and the inner cup where the boot clamps looks like the only point that would allow an increased angle)

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 9:14 pm 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
Chumly wrote:
19. Slid the shaft back into the joint assembly, making sure the spring clip snaps back into place on the shaft.

I'm redoing my front end...for the last week! I am running into issues with this little clip. Is the shaft suppose to slide on easily? If so, then I may have something more major going on here.

I had a video of my wiggling the half shaft and thinking it was bad. Welp, I pull it off and it's not bad at all. Had a new one, so I put it on anyway. Didn't see the clip, so I'm back at it today to put that clip on. Shoulda checked here first I suppose. But anyway, I can't get the darn thing on and I'm not about to get the BFH out to influence it. I'll run out a take a picture, but I'm afraid my axle stubs might be worn if I was driving like that!

This look normal? Looks tapered to me:
Image
This is the old Half-Shaft spline, and looks dirty...but not stripped.
Image
And the clip, uncompressed. Looks a bit big doesn't it?
Image
I Slide the half shaft on, but not snap or anything like positive retainment. I didn't install this; Jeep/Chrysler did the driver side back in 2004 when I had LBJ failure, but this side should be as I bought it in 2002.

In case anyone is wondering, AutoZone has some halfshafts that are pretty cheap. Like $108 with no core charge, new. Also, don't skip the sway bar link removal. Back when I was doing my lift (5 years ago?) I figured I could skip that and fought getting the strut saddle back on. Dur...never occurred to me that it was the sway bar tension I was fighting.

(If I need to make a topic of my own, please tell me! I don't want to steal from this tutorial and it's specific attention)
That inner axle shaft on the passenger side shoild come out with the rest of the CV.There are 2 different size clips,one for the drivers and one for the passenger.I had to replace mine and ordered a few of each.I was a real pain finding them.

From the looks of it you will need a new CV and inner shaft(which is not included with the new CV).


so in the 1st and 3rd picture, that piece should pull out of the diff, and i can get that inner piece from napa when i order my new passenger cv shaft?

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 Post subject: Re: How To: Inner CV Boot Replacement
PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2014 7:14 pm 
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I am trying to replace a boot that I tore on a new cv axle and can't figure out how to remove the clip in step #14. I am removing the passenger side inner boot, have everything apart but can't figure out whether to close or open the clip to slide the shaft out of the cv. Any one have the right answer and maybe the proper tool to use, my circlip pliers don't fit very well.


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 Post subject: Re: How To: Inner CV Boot Replacement
PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2017 3:47 am 
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Going to add to this thread some replacement photos since the originals have since vanished - I'll add some descrips and try to reference track with the original writeup - if my method differs the photo may show that difference so each pic will have a short explanation

------------

Tools used
-45* steel pick
-1/4"ish wide screw driver that can withstand some pressure without breaking
-snap ring spreaders
-boot clamp band pliers

Image

Reference Step #11 if welded boot bands, cut with grinder, if compression bands you can potentially reuse them (keep a few if your new boots came with decent bands) - i always recommend using new clamps, i also recommend keeping extras on hand should something happen - as with any steel , bending it back and forth multiple times weakens it and will cause it to break - but if you manage to get the old clamp off without bending it too much you can usually reuse it for other projects or as an emergency clamp should you need one, so if you can salvage a few clamps they may come in handy

If your cvs use the following style band (the good ones) use screw driver to spread the pinch in the band and use 45* pick to pull clamp forward and up off tooth of bands

Image

Alternative step 12 - leave boot on, shove it back towards the center

Image

continue with step 13 and get as much grease out of the way as you can

Reference Step 14
orient joint so relief in inner cage is accessible

Image

the pick is pointing at the inner cage snap ring that you will spread with snap ring pliers

Image

hold the bell, with your thumb on the outer cage and pull shaft free from inner cage

Reference step 15
If you're leaving the joint caged, leave the snap ring in the bell race installed

Image
*45 degree pick is denoting the outer snap ring

Alternative step
if your joints aren't contaminated , gloves work well to "bag" joints while you service the other boot/joint
Image

Alt. View
Outer CV joint snap ring
Image

Alternate method step
Once both joints are removed from shaft, remove old boots, clean axle shaft and remove any dirt/debris/rust, wrap splines and slide on the new boots

*Grease packing helpful suggestion
if you cut a small angle off of the grease bag, you can fold the corner of the bag over and insert it into the races - with the cage tilted downwards away from the neutral position of that race, and use the grease bag like a cake icing piper and easily penetrate grease through the joint, flushing out any residual contaminant and old grease

It's preferable to solvent bathe the joints and remove all traces of old grease and contaminant, but I'm well aware not everyone has a vat or wants/feels it necessary to completely decage - with the typical cv grease bags you'll need to roughly split the bag 70* joint, 30* boot on the bell side, and 50ish/50ish on the outer side

make sure to work the joints well , you can stick the handle of a screw driver through the inner cage to rotate the outer joint, the larger inner joint is usually pretty easy to work by hand

Image

once joints are serviced put them back on shaft and reseat boots, before tightening smaller clamps, carefully slide *45 degree pick under small end of boot and release any pressure, tighten smaller clamps

clean off ALL OIL AND GREASE from outside of CV before reinstal

Oil/Grease contaminant on outside of boot will trap dirt and cause the following, resulting in you repeating steps 1-16+ rather quickly

Image
Damage as a result of oil/grease on boots trapping dirt

If you go to service a joint and you come up with something that looks like this, if you've got napa remans you may want to just take it back and get another one

this is an example of a reman manufacturing foul up - the joints dont get properly greased for one. and the grease from whatever they use to inject the grease didn't mix correctly. The eggshell grease on one finger, and bright green grease on the other are two different types of grease used in cv joint grease by napa - it results in a bluegrey/green grease when properly mixed. usually youll find the eggshell colored grease only in the cv boot, and the bright green grease splattered and dried on the cv joint. i'm not exactly how this sort of junk happens besides the technician not caring/paying attention, this is technically considered a manufacturing defect and napa will warranty it - usually results in premature joint failure if not caught quickly

Image

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