How To: Change front driveshaft / change a driveshaft head

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Nov 27, 2018 10:46 pm

rob40wilson03 wrote:

Leeann wrote:

I didn't use Loctite and my bolts are as tight now as they were when installed - 3 years ago...4 years ago, something.

Thank you!!
Also, what are the torque specs for the bolts??

Loctite not required, use only if you want to
Front driveshaft CV mounting bolts:
front & rear C/V joint bolts 30 N·m (22 ft. lbs.).

rob40wilson03 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 10, 2011 9:43 pm **Posts:** 51

WWDiesel wrote:

rob40wilson03 wrote:

Leeann wrote:

I didn't use Loctite and my bolts are as tight now as they were when installed - 3 years ago...4 years ago, something.

Thank you!!
Also, what are the torque specs for the bolts??

Loctite not required, use only if you want to
Front driveshaft CV mounting bolts:
front & rear C/V joint bolts 30 N·m (22 ft. lbs.).

Many thanks!!

davidg91 · **Joined:** Wed Apr 08, 2015 1:01 pm **Posts:** 28

2005 Liberty Renegade Command Trac 4x4.
Recently lifted with an Ironman 1.5 lift, new JBA upper and lower ball joints. The boots are good.

I have recently noticed that when I put the jeep in 4 HI (or 4LO) even just as a test, the 4x4 is operational but I hear loud loud low pitched grinding noise from the front, even going straight.
Any ideas?

The rockauto front driveshaft parts are much higher than the driveshaftparts ones? Any comments on either one?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jee ... shaft,2308
https://www.driveshaftparts.com/DSJ910S
https://www.driveshaftparts.com/ME807

Would I need both the drive shaft and the CV joint kit above?

This discussion looks good; it seems doable at home.

Anyone have the KJ powertrain FSM?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Oct 15, 2024 3:15 am

Only the kits, the front driveshaft's length is unique to the Jeep CRD, so you want to keep your driveshaft. Driveshafts from gassers are unusable on the diesel Jeep, they are not the correct length.
As a test, you can completely remove the front driveshaft, put it in 4 wheel drive and see if the noise is gone. Pinpointing where the noise is coming from would be most helpful, front driveshaft, front axle, front axle CV joints, etc... If the left front axle is in a bind from the vehicle being lifted too high, the CV joints can make a noise.
The FSM for the 05&06 Jeep Liberty Diesel is available at the link below along with many other good documents.

https://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/

davidg91 · **Joined:** Wed Apr 08, 2015 1:01 pm **Posts:** 28

I saw the image of the "bad" front driveshaft head/joint in the first post. What does a good one look like?
Where does the boot in the image at https://www.driveshaftparts.com/index.p ... arch=me807 go?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Oct 16, 2024 12:40 am

davidg91 wrote:

I saw the image of the "bad" front driveshaft head/joint in the first post. What does a good one look like?
Where does the boot in the image at https://www.driveshaftparts.com/index.p ... arch=me807 go?

The boot pictured goes to the rear, transfer case end.

Front Differential End:

Rear Transfer Case End:

Picture of Complete Front Driveshaft:

davidg91 · **Joined:** Wed Apr 08, 2015 1:01 pm **Posts:** 28

Oh, is the black tube with the red top in the picture actually the grease, not a boot for the rear transfer case side of the front drive shaft?

It kind of looks like a boot....

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Oct 16, 2024 3:40 am

davidg91 wrote:

Oh, is the black tube with the red top in the picture actually the grease, not a boot for the rear transfer case side of the front drive shaft?
It kind of looks like a boot....

Yes, it is the special moly grease to pack into the CV joint.

davidg91 · **Joined:** Wed Apr 08, 2015 1:01 pm **Posts:** 28

Great thread. Thanks all. I am getting a very loud grinding noise when moving 4wd even at slow speeds and in a straight line. It sure seems like the commonly reported issue in the rear CV joint of the front drive shaft so I am going to change it, probably the whole thing not just a CV kit.

I just removed the bolts for the front driveshaft to the front diff and to the transfer case. I'll provide my experience for others. I had the left front up and had to block that wheel so it would not spin when loosening the bolts. I had to use a slim 8mm 6 point socket with a 1.4 inch drive because the sockets that flare out to a 3/8 inch drive did not clear the boot and shaft so would not go straight on, slipping off one bolt each in front and back. The slim socket fit fine and did not take too much force to remove the bolts. I started them with the socket and ratchet, but then used a impact driver with a right angle adapter (https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-MAXF ... /308436444) because there was no way the impact driver would otherwise fit in directly. I loosened one when it was accessible, then rotated the front left tire to rotate the shaft and make the next bolt accessible.

Now I need to remove the drive shaft and joints from the vehicle. With just hand pressure, they are on tight, so I will try prying and banging.... Someone mentioned removing the center cross member to make it easier to bang on the transfer case side and separate it from the yoke. Someone else mentioned loosening the transfer case cable bracket. However the yoke has 3 protrusions so wouldn't one need to pry it away from the transfer case first to clear those?

My drive shaft measures 29.5" from the base of the transfer case yoke to the base past the 2" metal cylinder at the differential side, which is closest to the 29.3" 52111596aa at driveashaftparts but my label says 52111596ab which they don't list, but some sites show those numbers to be compatible, but the dimensions are all over the place.

I also wanted to test whether the front diff is open or limited slip. I have a Renegade with command trac and trac lock (limited slip). I found when I elevated the front, that when I spin either front wheel the other front wheel does not spin at all, but the drive shaft does, when the jeep is in 2wd. When I moved the lever to 4HI and then spin one front wheel, the other front wheel spins opposite, demonstrating that the front diff is open. This matches what I saw when I got stuck temporarily a while back. In 4LO and one front wheel up, that elevated front wheel spun while the other front wheel did nothing. One back wheel was spinning and the other back wheel was stuttering. I had previously tested LSD in back and felt one back wheel start to spin before the other back wheel engaged and drove.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Dec 16, 2024 3:49 pm

Just tap on the side of the CV joints with big hammer after you get all the bolts out; it will come loose.
Once you get it out, you can safely drive it around and see if the noise is gone.
See inclosed Picture for parts:

They did not put any LSD in the front axle of the Jeep Liberty due to the weakness of the aluminum differential housing and it is not recommended due to this reason.

davidg91 · **Joined:** Wed Apr 08, 2015 1:01 pm **Posts:** 28

The front drive shaft came out pretty easily. The front compressed by hand then I was able to separate the shaft end from the front differential. With not too much persuasion and some liquid wrench, I was able to use a prybar and separate the back end of the shaft from the transfer case yoke, then push that end out of the yoke and up, free the front end, and slide the whole thing out.

I got a new one from drive shaft parts.

I hope replacing it will get rid of the loud howl when in 4wd mode.

How To: Change front driveshaft / change a driveshaft head

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