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 Post subject: Detroit True Trac for the D30a
PostPosted: Sat Jul 09, 2005 6:38 pm 
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Has been installed and seems to work just fine. The install took 3.5 hours total time with myself and a friend. The Detroit TrueTrac slipped right in without a problem. More to report after I get a chance to take it offroad.

The unit was purchased from ReiderRacing for a total including shipping of $309. and change.

So far in 2WD it is completely invisible. When I use Full-Time 4WD it does make the steering effort a little higher but still works great onroad.
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So far so Good.

If you have Command-Trac (NV231), I think this would be a great setup for the front AD30. In 2WD it is invisible on the road. Offroad it works flawlessly so far. It really acts/hooks up like a locker...both tires claw away. If you have Selec-Trac (NV242), it works the same offroad and is invisible in 2WD onroad. When using Full-Time on the road, it does make it's presence known. The steering is heavier and really tries to come back to center with a little force. It is not that bad, but you can defintely feel it working. I drove it in the rain and it tracked great but you must hold the steering wheel with a little more authority than stock.

Today I went and tried some obstacles that I usually can make but are at the threshold of what my KJ can do with just a rear locker ( PowerTrax No Slip ). I did the same obstacles easier even though it was very wet and muddy. It was nice to see all four tires churning away. I did not have to use the "brake trick" to get the Detroit TrueTrac to engage. It was seamless and automatic.

So far I would say that for $309.00 plus 2 quarts of gear lube, some red locktite for the ring and some RTV to seal the diff cover...it is a great Bang for the Buck mod. If they made one for the rear Corp. 8.25, it would be a pretty good combo to have them front and rear. My combo of Detroit TrueTrac front and PowerTrax No Slip rear works great for a grand total of less than $800.00 for the pair ( no labor included in that calculation ). I will be doing a writeup of the install sometime in the very near future.

Install Instructions
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1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery

2) Put two JackStands under the KJ somewhere behind the crossmember...do not set them too high...just enough to get the wheels off the ground

3)Remove front tires and slide them under the transfercase crossmember ( just a little extra safety )

4)Remove engine skid and tranny skid if so equipped

5) Remove bottom bolts from both sway bar links

6) Separate Lower Ball Joints from each side...I used a small sledge and hit the knuckle until it separated

7) Remove the bottom bolt from the Clevis...both sides

8 ) Passenger side-Remove the large "Jam Nut" on the outside of the assembly

9) Now, carefully pull out the axle shafts from each side trying not to hurt the axle seals-also be careful of the CV Boots. You will have to pull the passengerside axle completely out...the driverside just needs to be pulled out enough to clear the housing.

10) Remove the bolts from the clamp bushing on the long side of the differential axle

11) Remove the three bolts from the "hanger bushing" on the driverside of the differential

12)Remove the six small bolts from the front driveshaft ( there are also three two hole curved washers with that assembly ). You can put the transfercase in neutral to turn the driveshaft for access and then put it in 4LO to hold it still while you work on each pair of small bolts )
*I marked the two halves with a grease pencil so that I could hook the two halves back together in the same spot*

13) I also removed the OIL CATCH FUNNEL for more room

14) Disconnect the vent tube from the diff cover

15) Now remove the front diff cover and drain the fluid...if it is a milky brown be sure to carefully inspect the bearings in the diff...You can now pull the aluminum diff out in one piece.

16) Now mark the Bearing Caps so that you install them in the same position ( front to rear ) and on the same side of the carrier...I used a scribe and put one mark on the bearing cap and one on the aluminum housing for one side...two marks on the other side...
*I also tested the torque settings from the factory of the bearing cap bolts...they seemed to be about 50#s...important to not over torque these because they go into the Aluminum Housing.

17) Now you can remove the whole assembly...keep the solid shims ( one per side ) in check so you can reinstall them on the same side of the diff they came out of...also notice which side the ring gear sits on.

18 ) Press off the Bearings and Inspect them for any pits or scars

19) Remove the ring gear...
*I also tested the torque settings from the factory of the ring bolts...they seemed to be about 45-50#s...just make sure you pick a torque value and do them all the same when you install the ring on the Detroit TrueTrac...I also used a little RED LockTite on these bolts.

20) Press the bearings ( used or new ) on the new carrier...

21) Place the correct shim in the cleaned housing and slide in the new Detroit TrueTrac...make sure you have the ring gear on the correct side...ie the same as it came out. Then check the backlash and preload. Brandon at www.ReiderRacing told me that you should set them up about 3 thousands tighter than stock. ( Mine was OK...a little tighter with the stock one piece shims )

22) Run two beads of Black RTV on the prepped diff housing...one on the outer side and one on the inner side and then install the diff cover.

23)Put a little grease on the diff housing axle shaft ends to lube the seals for reinstalling the axle shafts.

23) Now reverse the removal process to do the install...just be careful sliding the axle shafts in the front diff and watch the CV Boots around the loose clevis.

24) After you think you have everything back in place...go over all the nuts and bolts one more time step by step.

25) Now fill the diff case until it drips out the filler hole...then start the KJ and put it in 4WD. Let the hubs turn for about 20-30 seconds.

26) Now top of the diff lube and install the plug.

27) Reinstall the tires and remove the jackstands...you are ready to drive. Put a couple of miles on the KJ using Part-Time 4WD and then reinspect for any leaks...be sure to check that the driveshaft is secure.

You now have a front traction device in your KJ!!! This took exactly 3.5 hours from start to finish...fairly easy to do as long as you can press on and off the bearings. I did not have to use new axle seals or bearings so the total cost of this upgrade was $309.00 for the TrueTrac, $3.00 for some brake cleaner ( diff housing ), $2.00 for some Red LockTite and $4.00 for some standard Gear Lube ( I decided to use mineral instead of synthetic so I can change it more often to check for contamination from water crossings ) and $5.00 for some Black RTV. The whole thing for less than $325.00...a great deal IMHO.

Posted by Darby Walters

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 Post subject: Re: Detroit True Trac for the D30a
PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 10:11 pm 
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i'm having a problem finding the right part # is there any chance you still have it?

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 Post subject: Re: Detroit True Trac for the D30a
PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 11:01 pm 
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I love mine I have never done any gear work(on jeeps) so I just swapped front diffs with JSC7002. I was changing out the lift to OME at the same time so it worked out great.

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 Post subject: Re: Detroit True Trac for the D30a
PostPosted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 10:03 am 
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The number used to be 912A314 - however that's been superceeded
and I think the new is 912A585 - but I'm not sure so confirm before you order
http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com/categories/dana/dana-30/products/product-336.html

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 Post subject: Re: Detroit True Trac for the D30a
PostPosted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 8:47 pm 
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I think i found the right one, but the price is $563.95!?


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 Post subject: Re: Detroit True Trac for the D30a
PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 5:44 pm 
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bmrrwolfe wrote:
I think i found the right one, but the price is $563.95!?


This write up was done about 5 years ago and prices do go up with time, however... that is a bit high. Even Quadratec has them for $409.99. You sure you aren't looking at the Detroit Soft Locker instead of the True-Trac? Soft lockers go for about 560-ish.

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 Post subject: Re: Detroit True Trac for the D30a
PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 10:25 pm 
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randys ring and pinion

$354

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4" Stump Lift.
JBA UCA's
245/75/16 GOODYEAR DURA TRACS


Thanks for throwing me under the bus Evil... Just remember this when you decide to turn yours back in to a... Real Jeep.


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 Post subject: Re: Detroit True Trac for the D30a
PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 8:58 pm 
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daspes wrote:
bmrrwolfe wrote:
I think i found the right one, but the price is $563.95!?


This write up was done about 5 years ago and prices do go up with time, however... that is a bit high. Even Quadratec has them for $409.99. You sure you aren't looking at the Detroit Soft Locker instead of the True-Trac? Soft lockers go for about 560-ish.


Oh durr...
I guess i should probably look at this!


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 Post subject: Re: Detroit True Trac for the D30a
PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 8:59 pm 
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stumpjumper_09 wrote:
randys ring and pinion

$354


Do you know the part number for it?
Thanks!


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 Post subject: Re: Detroit True Trac for the D30a
PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 9:02 pm 
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not sure. Give them a call

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2005 Liberty Renegade
STT CustomSTUFF
4" Stump Lift.
JBA UCA's
245/75/16 GOODYEAR DURA TRACS


Thanks for throwing me under the bus Evil... Just remember this when you decide to turn yours back in to a... Real Jeep.


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 Post subject: Re: Detroit True Trac for the D30a
PostPosted: Tue Jul 16, 2019 2:42 pm 
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Bump


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