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 Post subject: 2-1/2" Daystar install write up (1 year review)
PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 12:02 am 
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Well its now time to get started on doing the Daystar 2-1/2” Budget Boost on the Liberty. I decided to do a write up on this although it may not be something most are going to end up doing. The tires and rims from the Rubi have been sitting in my garages for 2 years just waiting for this day. I love to get out into the forest and camp but the Rubi is just a little too small for this so the Liberty is going to take on the job. My wife bought another car and no longer has a need for the Jeep. This will be the first stage in the “Silver Rose” build up.

First I figured out what lift I wanted to use and went with the Daystar 2-1/2” BB. This Jeep really is not going to see “trails” like the Rubi and will spend a lot of time just running around town. I didn’t see the need to go with the Franken Lift for this as it won’t be truly “wheeled”. I did however go ahead and get the bump stop extenders, boots, sway bar bushings and brake line extension bracket as additional items. Some tools I have that will come in very handy are the 12 ton floor press, strut spring compressors (narrow jaw ones work best although mine were not and I managed to make them work), a 21mm open/box end wrench and a computer in the garage. Air tools definitely make the job a lot easier. The front sounds like it is going to be tough so I have been doing a lot of research and getting helpful suggestions from the good folks on the lost KJ forums. The instructions from Daystar leave a lot to be desired but Franken Lift has some pretty good information, although they leave out the strut assembly.

Well now that the day is here, I started laying out tools and parts to make sure I still have everything I need.
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Now disconnect the negative terminal of the battery (good time to do a little cleaning as well). Now disconnect the positive side and take the battery hold down off (all 10mm on mine). Now take the battery out so you can access the battery tray.
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Now remove the nuts holding the battery tray down (13mm). On mine a 10” extension came in handy. Now on mine there is a lot attached to the battery tray so I did not totally remove it, but since it was loose I could move it around enough to where I figured I could get to the nuts for the strut when the time came.
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Go ahead and remove the air box. What most instructions don’t tell you about this is there is a main air intake hose, a breather hose and then the air box just pulls out of the rubber grommets that hold it in. There are not any bolts to remove. On mine you can see how much dirt came out of the filter even though the dealership said it was fine and clean the day before…………
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Now I put on the emergency brake and block the rear tires as I am going to do the front first as it is the harder of the two ends. After a couple of tries I found a good location for the jack stands. You might want to break your lug nuts free before you jack it up.
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Now on my Liberty I have the tire pressure sensors, so it’s pretty important to mark the tires as they come off so the sensors can go back in the correct locations.
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Now that the tires are off remove the upper ball joint nut which on mine is a 21mm nut. Now this part I am glad I read the Frankin Lift instructions, and they say not to use a pickle fork or ball joint separator to do the upper ball joint. Daystar says to use one, but it’s not needed. You just tap with a hammer, gently as they say and it will come apart, this takes some time to do so be patient. You don’t want to ruin that boot or you will be spending a chunk of change replacing things you didn’t need to. I used a little Deep Creep, although I don’t know if it helped.
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Disconnect the lower sway bar bolt (18mm).
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Now disconnect the lower clevis bolt (21mm) and remove bolt.
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Disconnect the upper clevis bolt (21mm), spread with a pry bar, and then remove. Mine still took a little gentle tapping to get off the strut.
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Now remove the four upper bolts (18mm) holding the strut in.
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Take the strut out.
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Using strut spring compressors compress the spring.
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Now take the top nut off the strut (15mm).
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Remove the top plate, cushion and dust cover.
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Now pull the strut cartage out.
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Cut the dust cover off, I just used some nibblers on each side and it came right off.
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Now take the cartage and turn it upside down, and tap the washer with a hammer to remove.
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Now install the new spacer/isolator. Mine I had to trim a little so the notch would be all the way through the side as they show in the Daystar instruction pictures. This allowed it to properly seat on the strut. Make sure this is lined up correctly.
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Now take the old upper strut plate and press the lugs out.
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Now press the studs into the new plate.
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I used a small ½” drive 7/8” socket to press the studs out, then a ½” drive 1-1/8” deep socket as a plate form to press the studs back in.

Now we are ready to reassemble the strut. Since I purchased the dust boots, first I put the washer that comes with the Daystar kit into the boot.
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Now put the boot on the shaft, and put the factory washed that you tapped off earlier back on. Bevel side down.
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Now install the rubber isolator that came with the kit.
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Now install the top plate.
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Install the other isolator, the factory washer and nut from when you took it apart.

Make sure you have the keyway for clevis in the proper place. The keyway and the wide upper mounting bolts both face out. For me this first strut has been a real learning experience, but the next one should be much easier.

This is wrong, as you can tell the first time I did not get the top plate lined up correctly.
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Some helpful hints:
Make sure when assembling the strut that the spring compressor lines up with the keyway. This will also put them in the correct position for removal of the spring compressor but also line up the top plate as well. If you have the shock boots it is very important not to put the zip tie on till after you remove the spring compressors and everything is lined up correctly. Also do one side at a time or mark the struts as they need to go back on the side they came off.

Now zip tie the bottom of the boot on if you have dust boots

Since everything is out of my way I decided to go ahead and install the extended bump stops. I just pried the old ones out, heated the new ones up real good with a hair dryer and gave them a little lube, a little grinding and fought like hell to get them in. But they went in.
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Now to the fun part, putting the strut back in. The instructions say to just put the top nuts on finger tight so that’s what I did.
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Now put the clevis back on making sure the keyway is lined up. I had to lightly tap it to get it to go all the way back into place.
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Now from here I took Gregscuba from the Lost KJ forums advice:

“Here's the tricky part....When it comes time to get the clevis back into it's mounting point on the LCA, I get a fairly long and beefy cylindrical(smooth) #3 Phillips screw driver. Next insert it through the hole in the clevis and into the hole in the LCA, then pry the clevis into alignment with the LCA while inserting the screwdriver further into the hole in the LCA. You may find that it helps if you use your other hand to wiggle/push/pull/teak the clevis around as necessary.
Now, holing it here and maintaining pressure on the screwdriver and clevis with one hand, grab the lower clevis bolt with the other hand, and put it in through the opposite side of the clevis from the screwdriver. As you insert the bolt, pushing it through the clevis and LCA, you will be simultaneously pushing the screwdriver back out with the bolt as it progresses, but still prying to keep the other side of the clevis lined up to accept the bolt when it comes through. It may take several tries, but you will eventually get it. You may need to lightly tap the bolt through with a ball peen hammer to get it started, but toward the end, do it by hand so you can ease it into the clevis hole.”

First I marked the cam bolts as to where they were to begin with.
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Since I do most of my work by myself I have learned a few tricks as well. A ratchet strap off the skid plate to the clevis really made short work of this part. With Greg’s helpful hints and the ratchet strap this all went back together amazingly fast.
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Now since I had received new sway bar bushings with the kit I purchase, I figured this was a good time to install them.
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So now on to reassembling everything, getting the cam bolts back into the proper place. Tightening everything up. Put the air box back in and the passenger side is done. The upper control arm is a bit of a pain to get back together, but a little prying, a floor jack and once again the ratchet strap work wonders.
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Repeat process on the drivers side and reinstall the battery tray and battery and the front is done. Make sure when you reconnect to put the positive terminal on first.


Make sure to torque all bolts to factory specs. This information can be found on the Franken Lift site:
http://boulderbars.com/images/kj_produc ... rticle.pdf


The first side took me a long time to do as I was writing this up as well as taking pictures. The second side took me about 3 hours to complete. I would think realistically for 1 person this would be about a 6 hour job, you could probably but that down to 4 hours with two people.


Now on to the back end of the lift. This will be much faster as there is not near as much to do.

First block the front wheels and jack up the Jeep far enough to where the tires stay off the ground when on jack stands just in front of the lower rear control arms.
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Now take the tires off, once again I am marking them due to the pressure sensors.
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Now I put the floor jack under the rear axel to give it some support and disconnect the lower shock mounts. 15mm bolt and 18mm nut.
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At this point you can remove the springs. Mine just pretty much popped right out
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Now Daystar says to remove the lower isolators but from doing research these should be left in otherwise you Jeep will sit lower in the back. Go ahead in put the spacers in place.
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There are several ways to get your springs back in, you can disconnect your sway bar and the top control arm, or you can use spring compressors to install them. Since I had the spring compressors out I decided not to tear everything apart and just use them. Normally I would not use spring compressors, but in this case it made the job very fast. It only took about 10 minutes per spring with out having to go through all the crap of getting everything else back together. I highly recommend this method on the Liberty.
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Wahla!
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Now reinstall the shock bolts using the floor jack under the differential to line things up.
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Put the tires on. Take the jack stands out and whala! This part took me just about an hour with doing the write up and with pictures.

The finshed product
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Last edited by KJ Taz on Tue Nov 11, 2008 11:26 am, edited 3 times in total.

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 Post subject: Thank-You
PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 1:40 am 
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It took a lot of dedication and thought to detail to not only take on a project like this by yourself. but to additonally have the patience to stop again and again to record your progessand all the procedures so others can learn. I'm not sure I would have the patience, I'm the perinoid type who before he moves on the next step always goes back with torque wrench or what ever and double and triple check myself so as not to get a head of myself. Great write up. :D :D


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 8:10 am 
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Excellent write-up!

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 10:26 am 
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Thank you for the compliments, that right there makes it all worth while.


On another note, if anyone has anything to add or additional tricks to the installs, please let me know and I will make sure it gets added in. Heck if you think I am just plain worng please let me know. I would rather have good correct infomation in the write up.

Thanks all!

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 11:56 pm 
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Awesome write up!

I have a couple more things to add... If you have a CRD model, be sure to protect the inner CV boot on the drivers side when putting the "lifted" strut assembly in, as it is now longer and the lower spring perch may puncture the boot since CRD front diff position puts the boot in harms way. I have learned the hard way x2 about puncturing the boot, and found success with coving the boot with 1/4" - 1/2" thick of shop rags to protect it during the installation. A little grease on the surface of the boot may help too.

Also, the spring perch that comes with the OME struts is a little rougher on the edges than on the factory struts, so you may want to smooth it with a bench grinder and wire wheel, then hit the resulting bare metal with a little black paint after it's all reinstalled.

If you do tear the boot, then I would recommend the EMPI replacement JE-Reel sells rather than the factory replacement.

With the CRD model, you will absolutely need thin-jawed spring compressors since the coils are fatter and more numerous on a CRD. The ones they sell (not the rentals) at Advanced/Discount Auto Parts do the trick, are cheap enough, and are lifetime guaranteed. They are made by Ampro.

Good luck to anyone who does this lift. It is well worth it.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2007 3:53 pm 
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Thanks for your additional input Greg!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2007 4:31 pm 
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If you dont have a spring compressor for the rear just use your factory jack between the rotor and frame doesnt take that much pressure, I have done mine with OME Heavy duty springs and another KJ with OME medium springs and 2 with Rustys all the same way, easy to do by your self. I can do the rears on mine in about 15/20 minutes, I change mine often between a set of Rustys very very very soft ride and the OMEs, nice and firm :lol:

tom

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PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2008 6:56 pm 
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So when are you gonna come by my place and do mine? :D

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 11:56 am 
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I have my house up for sale here in Colorado and I am moving to Las Vegas as soon as it sells. If you need a hand and can wait till I get out there I would be more than happy to help you with the lift once I get settled. We can even do it in my garage.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 12:10 pm 
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Xodius, where are you at in Vegas? Taz do you know where exactly what part of Vegas you will be at once moved? I used to live down there. Miss it on occasion. :wink: I was in Summerlin.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 7:06 pm 
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I guess at this point I will add a little to the thread. I have now had the lift on for alittle over 6 months and so far I am very happy with it. Sure it does ride a little bit rougher, but to me it rides a drives more like a Jeep should. I haven't had to bad of an issue with the tires wearing, although I have rotated them twice and I have alittle over 6,000 miles on the lift so far. I really don't "wheel" the Jeep but I really did notice the ground clearance in the snow this year. It was very nice to have. I do rub at the pinch seem and still a little bit in the front even after I trimmed the front airdam. Its not enough for me to do anything about. Heck my TJ rubs and I won't trim it either. Nothing that hurts the tires, nothing is going to break, so I leave it be. I like the fact the Jeep still looks fairly stock and really only Jeep folks know what I did to the Jeep. If my TJ didn't suck up money so quick I probably would put a little more into the Libby, although in looking at things, it really doesn't need more money thrown at it as its a great vehicle as it sits. So all in all I am still very happy with the lift and the way things have worked out. I guess a big point is I didn't try to fool myself into a cheaper lift and then regret it, as I was very honest with myself and what my goals were with this Jeep at this point. Mainly a get around town, good in the snow, occassional camping vehicle that will see dirt roads but won't really run any "trails" so to speak. It does it all and looks darn good doing it. Thats what I wanted and achieved.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 9:15 pm 
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Newbie here...finally registered after a lot of lurking and reading. I'm about to do a lift also...I just want to clear a set of Moab rims with 245/70/16 Firestone A/t's, AND, I'd like to keep the ride close to stock. If I can come up with enough $$$ to go OME I will, but for now, that Daystar kit looks cheap and effective....and looks great too.

My question for you is about the ride quality versus stock...I know it's hard to describe the ride in text, but any info is greatly appreciated. This is my main hesitation with the Daystar. Does it ride like a stock TJ? ....Maybe a straight axle 3/4 ton 4x4?

Last, I'm still trying to figure out why a extended top strut plate is so bad ("OTT")...it just increases the distance between the clevis mount and the top plate mount....same as any lift. (Is a 2.5" increase too much?)

I'll be using mine on gravel roads in Nevada, so a smooth ride is important! I don't plan on doing any challenging trails with it.

Maybe I should post this Q as a new thread?

Thanks for all the advice.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 10:32 pm 
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The ride is still better than my TJ. Even if it is a little rougher than stock. I really like the feel of it. As far as the lift with the top strut plate its no where near as bad as just a regular puck lift. But it will put added pressure on your ball joints which are wimpy to begin with. If you are looking for a very smooth ride this may not be for you, although my wife is very picky and after the lift settled down (about a couple of days of driving) she loves it.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 05, 2008 2:18 pm 
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THANK YOU!!!
I JUST INSTALLED THIS LIFT USING YOUR INSTRUCTIONS.
EXCELLENT.

TOOK ME 2 DAYS BECAUSE WE MOUNTED THE STRUT PLATES ON BACKWARDS AND NEEDED TO GO TO THE SHOP TO FIX EM, AND THEY CLOSED.
BACK ONLY TOOK 40 MINS THOUGH!

THANKS SO MUCH. THIS WRITE UP IS EXTREMELY VALUABLE. ILL POST PICS LATER!

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 06, 2008 8:48 am 
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Nice glad to hear it helped out! Make sure you send me a link to the pictures as I have been so busy it is hard to keep up with the site.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 11:29 pm 
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The instructions you gave are way better then the ones from daystar, because i was about to quite installing the lift until I found this. After I studied it a few times it was a breeze. Thanks for the help and you rock for taking the time to do the how to on this lift.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 11:34 pm 
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03jeepkj wrote:
The instructions you gave are way better then the ones from daystar, because i was about to quite installing the lift until I found this. After I studied it a few times it was a breeze. Thanks for the help and you rock for taking the time to do the how to on this lift.


Pictures? Before-After?

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 11:21 am 
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03jeepkj wrote:
The instructions you gave are way better then the ones from daystar, because i was about to quite installing the lift until I found this. After I studied it a few times it was a breeze. Thanks for the help and you rock for taking the time to do the how to on this lift.



No problem I am glad it helped. When I saw the instructions from Daystar I decided I would do a write up.................. :shock:

I am also glad you took the time to study it first, as I wrote it up as I went along, and I found some of the tricks after I screwed up.

Its time to do the one year review, hopefully I can get that done here pretty soon.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 5:10 pm 
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did you keep the stock rear shocks?


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 6:33 pm 
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05_renegade wrote:
did you keep the stock rear shocks?


no stock shocks are too short for a lift, will top out and bust them, longer shocks such as Rancho RSX 17004 are needed :wink:

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