mixing lifts

swmpthg · **Posted:** Thu Oct 09, 2008 9:41 pm

jeepkj02 wrote:

If you want that much lift get JBA's 6" lift.

I just explained that I didn't see the purpose in that lift, because you will never compress those 6 inch lift springs fully before you would tuck yoru tires completly

tommudd · **Posted:** Thu Oct 09, 2008 9:54 pm

I think we are talking about different things here, what works, what doesn't, suspension free travel,etc.
I think anytime you start getting up that high the limiting factor is the control arms in the rear for one and the way the front suspension reacts to that much heighth, you maybe able to raise it that high and look the look but will you have enough free travel for it to work good off road? You maybe able to stuff the tires up in the fenderwells but the range of motion that the rearend is going through is not good at all. Going that high a long arm set up is needed first I would think
There is a whole lot more to setting up a suspension to work correctly than just throwing stuff together

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 09, 2008 10:06 pm

swmpthg wrote:

jeepkj02 wrote:

If you want that much lift get JBA's 6" lift.

I just explained that I didn't see the purpose in that lift, because you will never compress those 6 inch lift springs fully before you would tuck yoru tires completly

And that is what you want.If you completly compress the coil springs(coils touching each other) it is called "stacking" and is very bad for your coils and will make them sag and severly weaken them.The fact that you would not fully compress the JBA 6" rear coils before fully stuffing a 33" tire(you should be using bumpstops before this happens though) is actually a good thing since you will not ruin the coil spring and it will give you more down travel before the coil pops out.

swmpthg · **Posted:** Thu Oct 09, 2008 11:57 pm

tommudd wrote:

I think we are talking about different things here, what works, what doesn't, suspension free travel,etc.
I think anytime you start getting up that high the limiting factor is the control arms in the rear for one and the way the front suspension reacts to that much heighth, you maybe able to raise it that high and look the look but will you have enough free travel for it to work good off road? You maybe able to stuff the tires up in the fenderwells but the range of motion that the rearend is going through is not good at all. Going that high a long arm set up is needed first I would think
There is a whole lot more to setting up a suspension to work correctly than just throwing stuff together

Yeah, I figured since there is no long arm kit my old set up will serve a good purpose for me I don't plan to do any hardcore offroading just mild trail rides to a daily driver then this would be an ideal thing for me to get the look I want It will do anything and everything everyone else does with a 2.5 inch kit.

well, since i plan to regear to 4.10's what exactly is that doing? making my rotations in the axle greater? I want to run almost a 33" tire but I would like to keep the current gas milege would changing to a 4.10 gear help?

tom and tjkj,
I don't plan to off road often. but i owuld like to keep the current mpg if i were to run a 4-6inch lift with close to a 33inch tire what gears should I get for the best MPG

tommudd · **Posted:** Fri Oct 10, 2008 12:23 am

swmpthg wrote:

tommudd wrote:

I think we are talking about different things here, what works, what doesn't, suspension free travel,etc.
I think anytime you start getting up that high the limiting factor is the control arms in the rear for one and the way the front suspension reacts to that much heighth, you maybe able to raise it that high and look the look but will you have enough free travel for it to work good off road? You maybe able to stuff the tires up in the fenderwells but the range of motion that the rearend is going through is not good at all. Going that high a long arm set up is needed first I would think
There is a whole lot more to setting up a suspension to work correctly than just throwing stuff together

Yeah, I figured since there is no long arm kit my old set up will serve a good purpose for me I don't plan to do any hardcore offroading just mild trail rides to a daily driver then this would be an ideal thing for me to get the look I want It will do anything and everything everyone else does with a 2.5 inch kit.

well, since i plan to regear to 4.10's what exactly is that doing? making my rotations in the axle greater? I want to run almost a 33" tire but I would like to keep the current gas milege would changing to a 4.10 gear help?

tom and tjkj,
I don't plan to off road often. but i owuld like to keep the current mpg if i were to run a 4-6inch lift with close to a 33inch tire what gears should I get for the best MPG

The problem is there is only one choice. 4.10s thats all there is for the front, rears you can go deeper but not the front. with 33s you are still going to loose some MPGs with that size tire, but the gear swap will help.
Just didn't want to see you get into the same thing you had before , you already know what that little snap sounds like :wink:

before the rear axle rotates.
Need to talk some more

swmpthg · **Posted:** Fri Oct 10, 2008 8:21 am

tommudd wrote:

swmpthg wrote:

tommudd wrote:

I think we are talking about different things here, what works, what doesn't, suspension free travel,etc.
I think anytime you start getting up that high the limiting factor is the control arms in the rear for one and the way the front suspension reacts to that much heighth, you maybe able to raise it that high and look the look but will you have enough free travel for it to work good off road? You maybe able to stuff the tires up in the fenderwells but the range of motion that the rearend is going through is not good at all. Going that high a long arm set up is needed first I would think
There is a whole lot more to setting up a suspension to work correctly than just throwing stuff together

Yeah, I figured since there is no long arm kit my old set up will serve a good purpose for me I don't plan to do any hardcore offroading just mild trail rides to a daily driver then this would be an ideal thing for me to get the look I want It will do anything and everything everyone else does with a 2.5 inch kit.

well, since i plan to regear to 4.10's what exactly is that doing? making my rotations in the axle greater? I want to run almost a 33" tire but I would like to keep the current gas milege would changing to a 4.10 gear help?

tom and tjkj,
I don't plan to off road often. but i owuld like to keep the current mpg if i were to run a 4-6inch lift with close to a 33inch tire what gears should I get for the best MPG

The problem is there is only one choice. 4.10s thats all there is for the front, rears you can go deeper but not the front. with 33s you are still going to loose some MPGs with that size tire, but the gear swap will help.
Just didn't want to see you get into the same thing you had before , you already know what that little snap sounds like :wink:

before the rear axle rotates.
Need to talk some more

the actual problem when that happened at the Badlands was that JBA bracket failed. there was a lot of pressure riding on that poor design so when that happened it caused two of the holes on the bracket to bend and one to break off causing the u joint straps to break. My ujoint didn't fail nor did my axle all the problems were from that bracket which broke one hole off of the actual ball stub bracket itself, which is a very very difficult part to find.

tommudd · **Posted:** Fri Oct 10, 2008 8:41 am

So what are you going to try and use this round to take care of that problem?
And where did you find the part you needed to repair it? Just curious :wink:

swmpthg · **Posted:** Fri Oct 10, 2008 8:50 am

tommudd wrote:

So what are you going to try and use this round to take care of that problem?
And where did you find the part you needed to repair it? Just curious :wink:

As of right now im not sure what Ill do for the rear. I ran the rear when it was lifted without that bracket for awhile and it was fine just while wheeling it was at a great angle. the part I needed (ball stud bracket) was and is on national backorder form the dealer so I seached and called over 50 junkyards and found one that had a couple KJs so I went there and snatched one right off the rear end of the KJ, thinking back I should have taken all available ones.. :lol:

I saw one KJ that had A SFA and to address the rear he used actual control arms that went directly where the tri link assembly and the bracket bolt onto the diff housing. which would eliminate the hole problem of the hard angles and the poor extension bracket. I hope if anyone is uses the bracket they are just careful and do light trails only :wink:

hopefully JBA will fab up a new design for the upper rear, but if not I will probably have it fabricated myself.

Sport · **Posted:** Fri Oct 10, 2008 8:53 am

Go for it Swampthng, I like watching people break stuff. :lol:

Seriously though try:

For the front - the KK clevis fork, you can get 2" of lift out of it. plus another 3 with OME HD coils and there is your 5" of lift. Of course new CVs and JBA arms.

For the rear - JBA 4" coils and 2 spring isolators.

Can a custom drive shaft be made for the rear to work with longer control arms like JBAs??

I also suggest a less agressive 33" tire. I am worried about that front diff though.

swmpthg · **Posted:** Fri Oct 10, 2008 8:59 am

Here is a pic of the upper rear end addressed. seems to me to be a good design to address the poor extension bracket. why can't JBA or someone produce this?

swmpthg · **Posted:** Fri Oct 10, 2008 9:00 am

Sport wrote:

Go for it Swampthng, I like watching people break stuff. :lol:

Seriously though try:

For the front - the KK clevis fork, you can get 2" of lift out of it. plus another 3 with OME HD coils and there is your 5" of lift. Of course new CVs and JBA arms.

For the rear - JBA 4" coils and 2 spring isolators.

Can a custom drive shaft be made for the rear to work with longer control arms like JBAs??

I also suggest a less agressive 33" tire. I am worried about that front diff though.

hey you only learn from experience and of course try new things and breaking things.. :wink:

I will think of something... :twisted:

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Fri Oct 10, 2008 4:57 pm

swmpthg wrote:

Here is a pic of the upper rear end addressed. seems to me to be a good design to address the poor extension bracket. why can't JBA or someone produce this?

That is the rear half of the RK 7up lift,total junk lift,they scraped it long ago.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Fri Oct 10, 2008 7:47 pm

I thought the front of the 7up lift was bad - but the rear was okay (comparable to normal jeep lifts)
- the one guy to get it to work - rebuilt the front - but only tweaked a couple of things on the back

This was the thread
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=137601#137601

and a couple more photos
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=14103&highlight=lift+crd

mixing lifts

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