BVCRD wrote:
Probably because it's not part of the procedure. You can bleed them also once you're done, but it's not required.
o.k, thanks for clarifying
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| Author: | zammer [ Wed Mar 24, 2010 9:32 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Front & Rear Brake Job & Rotor Installation |
BVCRD wrote: Probably because it's not part of the procedure. You can bleed them also once you're done, but it's not required. o.k, thanks for clarifying
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| Author: | Daksport [ Wed Mar 24, 2010 4:32 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Front & Rear Brake Job & Rotor Installation |
BVCRD wrote: Probably because it's not part of the procedure. You can bleed them also once you're done, but it's not required.  Brakes should always be bled after putting new pads on. The fluid also deteriorates during normal use due to various reasons (heat, moisture, etc.) and if you don't bleed the lines to get the old fluid out and new fluid in you will start having issues down the road. Here is a good site detailing why it should be done and the procedure to do it: http://www.zeckhausen.com/bleeding_brakes.htm |
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| Author: | BVCRD [ Thu Mar 25, 2010 11:37 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Front & Rear Brake Job & Rotor Installation |
Daksport wrote: BVCRD wrote: Probably because it's not part of the procedure. You can bleed them also once you're done, but it's not required. Brakes should always be bled after putting new pads on. The fluid also deteriorates during normal use due to various reasons (heat, moisture, etc.) and if you don't bleed the lines to get the old fluid out and new fluid in you will start having issues down the road. Here is a good site detailing why it should be done and the procedure to do it: http://www.zeckhausen.com/bleeding_brakes.htm I disagree. If I had just bled my brakes a year ago with a complete flush, there is NO need to do it again if I were putting on new pads  . Fluid lasts from 2-3 years depending on the amount of humidity in the air where it is driven. To safely bleed these brakes, just crack open the bleeder nipple, put a drain hose on it and catch it in a container. No pumping or that nonsense. Gravity bleed. Do rears first. Make sure the fluid doesn't get low in the master cylinder. Takes 1-1/2 hours to do it all.
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| Author: | tjkj2002 [ Thu Mar 25, 2010 1:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Front & Rear Brake Job & Rotor Installation |
BVCRD wrote: Daksport wrote: BVCRD wrote: Probably because it's not part of the procedure. You can bleed them also once you're done, but it's not required. Brakes should always be bled after putting new pads on. The fluid also deteriorates during normal use due to various reasons (heat, moisture, etc.) and if you don't bleed the lines to get the old fluid out and new fluid in you will start having issues down the road. Here is a good site detailing why it should be done and the procedure to do it: http://www.zeckhausen.com/bleeding_brakes.htm I disagree. If I had just bled my brakes a year ago with a complete flush, there is NO need to do it again if I were putting on new pads . Fluid lasts from 2-3 years depending on the amount of humidity in the air where it is driven. To safely bleed these brakes, just crack open the bleeder nipple, put a drain hose on it and catch it in a container. No pumping or that nonsense. Gravity bleed. Do rears first. Make sure the fluid doesn't get low in the master cylinder. Takes 1-1/2 hours to do it all.Brake fluid should be tested at least once a year,water in the fluid is not the big issue as is corrosion is.Most shops have the test strips,they test for copper content which is a result of corrosion.Some auto makers have a service interval for brake fluid flushes,most are 2 years,but regardless you should have the fluid flushed at least every 3-4 years(and that is pushing it). No need to flush/bleed the system unless you fluid is bad(test strips) or you break open the system(put on new caliper or master).There are many ways to flush/bleed the system and gravity bleeding is the worst,just a step worse then the old pumping method.There are other considerations depending on what type of master you have and how it is mounted in the vehicle.You want the end of the master(the end farthest from the brake booster) to be lower then the booster side,very important if you replaced any component.You also want to depress the brake pedal about 1"-2"(held with brake depressor) when flushing/bleeding as this will allow all the brake fluid to be flushed out of the master. Compressing the caliper pistons without opening the bleeder can be bad,the reverse pressure can reach well over 100psi which can push the corrosion and sludge back into the proportional valve(and ABS pump is you have ABS) and master which can cause function issues.You would be amazed on all the crap behind the caliper pistons. Reverse flushing/bleeding is the best as it pushes the air up and out the master,they way air wants to go and the easiest path for air.This is done by injecting fluid through the bleeder and filling the master(after removing most of the fluid from the master 1st).I use the Phoenix System and it works and works very well. http://www.brakebleeder.com/ |
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| Author: | BVCRD [ Thu Mar 25, 2010 1:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Front & Rear Brake Job & Rotor Installation |
The ABS and ESP might not like that method. Gravity is the safest way I have found. In my area, humidity is so low, I went 4 years before a strip test showed me it was time to flush. I never had an air in line issue. Just rotten fluid. |
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| Author: | tjkj2002 [ Thu Mar 25, 2010 1:55 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Front & Rear Brake Job & Rotor Installation |
BVCRD wrote: The ABS and ESP might not like that method. Gravity is the safest way I have found. In my area, humidity is so low, I went 4 years before a strip test showed me it was time to flush. I never had an air in line issue. Just rotten fluid. ESP has nothing to do with it.Gravity bleeding allows air to enter the system,remember air wants to rise and those cracked open bleeders are well below the ABS pump and master.Besides you wants to wait 1.5 hours when it can be done in less then 10mins(and be done right),and leaving the system open that long is bad for the fluid anyways(drastically lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid).Plus the Phoenix System is ABS approved. 3 weeks ago I had to completely replace every component in a '05 Grand Caravan due to ATF contamination,which included the ABS pump.I had the system bleed(and right without the use of a scan tool for the ABS) in less then 15mins by myself,and that was a system with zero fluid in it to start with. |
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| Author: | BVCRD [ Thu Mar 25, 2010 2:04 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Front & Rear Brake Job & Rotor Installation |
tjkj2002 wrote: BVCRD wrote: The ABS and ESP might not like that method. Gravity is the safest way I have found. In my area, humidity is so low, I went 4 years before a strip test showed me it was time to flush. I never had an air in line issue. Just rotten fluid. ESP has nothing to do with it.Gravity bleeding allows air to enter the system,remember air wants to rise and those cracked open bleeders are well below the ABS pump and master.Besides you wants to wait 1.5 hours when it can be done in less then 10mins(and be done right),and leaving the system open that long is bad for the fluid anyways(drastically lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid).Plus the Phoenix System is ABS approved. 3 weeks ago I had to completely replace every component in a '05 Grand Caravan due to ATF contamination,which included the ABS pump.I had the system bleed(and right without the use of a scan tool for the ABS) in less then 15mins by myself,and that was a system with zero fluid in it to start with. How is air getting in if you gravity bleed? It isn't getting past the fluid coming out. It isn't getting past the threads that you grease. There is a constant flow of fluid coming out. The air if any that gets in will just come right back out, it doesn't swim upstream. I don't think you want all that trash being pushed through the ABS pump. I was thinking ESP works with the ABS system. I put the cap back on to minimize air in the system at the MC, (although there is always air in the reservoir since it isn't every topped off), just don't lock it down. It's not like you just sit there waiting for an hour. You get the thing dripping, and go grab another beverage. |
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| Author: | tjkj2002 [ Thu Mar 25, 2010 5:48 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Front & Rear Brake Job & Rotor Installation |
BVCRD wrote: The air if any that gets in will just come right back out, it doesn't swim upstream. Actually it does travel upstream,air rises.More likely to get air in with the master cap on,even if not tightened. |
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| Author: | BVCRD [ Thu Mar 25, 2010 10:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Front & Rear Brake Job & Rotor Installation |
tjkj2002 wrote: BVCRD wrote: The air if any that gets in will just come right back out, it doesn't swim upstream. Actually it does travel upstream,air rises.More likely to get air in with the master cap on,even if not tightened. Sorry, but your physics are flawed. Air might be able to migrate uphill IF there wasn't a stream or current or flow keeping it from rising. Take an enema bag if you have one,  and turn on the spigot. See how much air gets to the bag that is uphill from the outlet. The reservoir is not a vacuum. Air is in there like it or not, cap or not.
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| Author: | lfhoward [ Fri Jan 01, 2016 10:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Front & Rear Brake Job & Rotor Installation |
I ran across the torque specs for KK front and rear brakes, so wanted to post them with this how-to. This comes from JeepCares, who originally posted it on JeepForum.com: 
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| Author: | mattbucher [ Fri Nov 17, 2017 8:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Front & Rear Brake Job & Rotor Installation |
Any chance someone can unlock the pictures again? I cannot see any of the pics for this post. Thank you. |
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| Author: | lfhoward [ Tue Nov 21, 2017 10:10 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Front & Rear Brake Job & Rotor Installation |
mattbucher wrote: Any chance someone can unlock the pictures again? I cannot see any of the pics for this post. Thank you. PhotoBucket is holding everyone’s pics for a ransom of $400/year. Chances are if the person who posted them is no longer active on the forum, they won’t see your request. But here is a workaround: A way to see them is to: Scroll to the bottom of the post and click the Quote button. It will show you the html links for the pics inside of the quoted text. Copy and paste those urls (without the IMG tags) into your web browser to pull them up inside of Photobucket’s own website. It’s a pain to go through this but it should work to view the photos you want. |
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