This is a description of my problem. Hopefully this will help someone else to not make the mistake I did.
Recently removing my UCAs.
I was removing the castle nut for the UBJ. I left a few threads on and broke the ball joint loose. I didn't completely remove the castle nut before I broke it loose. At this point I tried to finish removing the castle nut but the ball joint would keep rotating and I could not get the nut off "tried to hold it in multiple ways-broke 2 sockets-fried 1 wrench" before I stripped the bottom of the ball joint. I had to cut the bottom of the ball joint to remove it from the knuckle.
On the other side, I didn't break the ball joint loose before completely removing the nut "I screwed the nut back on to catch the knuckle and everything attached." This side turned out to be painless.
Shouldn't have typed all this crap.
Point is, completely remove the castle nut, then put the nut back on a few threads. Then break the ball joint loose. Could also be that the problem ball joint was . Could have just had bad luck also.

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Stone White 2007 Jeep Liberty Sport
Mopar skids and hooks, Hidden Hitch, Frankenlift - 245/75/16 DuraTrac - Black Jack rims - Al's UCA's

And why the OEM ball joints,and tie rod ends,have a hex end so you can hold with a 10mm socket(6 point) while loosening the nut the rest of the way with a wrench.The soluction was already engineered into the OEM parts.

That's the part that I broke two sockets and a wrench on. Must have been cheap but they were both 6 point sockets.

I should have taken the nut off, screwed it back on a few threads, then broke the ball joint loose. When I broke the first socket I started to round the hex. Eventually I ended up cutting the nut off with a hacksaw blade.

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Stone White 2007 Jeep Liberty Sport
Mopar skids and hooks, Hidden Hitch, Frankenlift - 245/75/16 DuraTrac - Black Jack rims - Al's UCA's