Question. I know I need to replace my rear u-joint, it is making that god awful metal on metal noise; anyone have a link for this part online? Also has anyone replaced theirs before, thoughts? Easy, difficult?

Lastly, I want to know If i take it offroading this saturday, what could possibly go wrong with it? Debating if i should go wheeling for a little bit on saturday or not.

Thanks

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'02 Liberty Limited 4x4
-Selec Trac
-MTR's 245/75-16
-Rock Lizard Super Skink Sliders(custom)
-Engine skid, Skidrow Transmission skid
-4" Lift - JBA 4.5 Gen A-arms
Installed@165,920k
Pilot lights on cowl
Engine replacement at 175k

How to replace it:
http://www.ehow.com/how_7591806_change- ... berty.html

The part:
https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Cata ... 38+2038037

"Stealership" price...
http://www.moparonlineparts.com/shoppin ... alogid%3D1

If it was me I wouldn't go off roading with a bad U joint like that. You'll be putting a lot of stress on a part that's already failing. If it breaks on the trail your going to have to be dragged to the road and towed home. Or If you driving home and it happens to break on lets say, an expressway, who knows how much damage that drive shaft will make when it comes loose from the diff and being thrown all over the place under the kj.

_________________
Horse Power: How fast you hit a wall.
Torque: How much of the wall you take with you.

06 CRD
OME HD w/clevis top plate
JBA 4.5 UCAs
245/75/16r Goodyear Duratrax
Fumoto Valve, V6 ABM
Rock Lizard Super Skinks
Cobra 75 WX ST
ECO GDE tune, 2.5 straight piped
ProVent, Samcoed
Non F37ed TCM
DieHard P1

links didnt work, part #? yeah i figured. "The entire front driveshaft must be replaced to change failing universal joints." whattt? screw that the mechanic can do it, i dont have that much time to have the jeep down like that.

_________________
'02 Liberty Limited 4x4
-Selec Trac
-MTR's 245/75-16
-Rock Lizard Super Skink Sliders(custom)
-Engine skid, Skidrow Transmission skid
-4" Lift - JBA 4.5 Gen A-arms
Installed@165,920k
Pilot lights on cowl
Engine replacement at 175k

yea that's also a reason why I decided to let me mech handle this one.

The links are working for me. Always heres the parts number:

Here's the part # for napa:
PUJ 280

Stealership:
Doesn't show the part number but if you go to the site and follow:

Click on:
Universals & rear axle
Rear axle

click on:
Propeller shaft

click on:
Universal joints

Universal joints, liberty, 3.7l, auto trans, all
05-07 $89.75 $61.93

_________________
Horse Power: How fast you hit a wall.
Torque: How much of the wall you take with you.

06 CRD
OME HD w/clevis top plate
JBA 4.5 UCAs
245/75/16r Goodyear Duratrax
Fumoto Valve, V6 ABM
Rock Lizard Super Skinks
Cobra 75 WX ST
ECO GDE tune, 2.5 straight piped
ProVent, Samcoed
Non F37ed TCM
DieHard P1

FYI-PUJ 280 is for manual transmission. It's also listed as a greasable u-joint. I seem to remember reading in another thread that greasable u-joints were not recommended because they seem to fail faster or something (?). Hopefully someone can confirm as I'm also going to be replacing my rear u-joint soon.

_________________
07 KJ OME 927/948, Bilstein shocks, JBA 1/4" plates+about 3/8" clevis, 2 extra rear isolators sitting at about 3.5" of lift with 245/75-16 Duratracs on Moabs (painted black)

Greasable ones must be maintained, maybe when you get your oil changed?

What can go wrong wheeling? I try not to think about that when I'm out there. Be careful and have a good time, If your worried bring your tools and a friend to get you out.

Sure I wont have my new hub by then but may I ask where you plan to wheel?

_________________
Mike Smith
06 KJ Sport - PA - ONSFARI

OME 926/948 w/ OME Shocks, 3/8 Boiler, 1" LTT, a bit of Clevis lift
MOPAR Skids, Custom trans skid
Valley Roof Basket with Extension (when required), Homemade fence post crossbars with Thule system to compliment
Mastercraft A\T Something or another...