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PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 10:55 pm 
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I'll be there if my wife does no thave to work. Otherwise, dragging the 3 & 5 yr old daughters with me would definitely be a set back to the project.... :wink:

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 12:08 pm 
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InCommando wrote:
I'll be there if my wife does no thave to work. Otherwise, dragging the 3 & 5 yr old daughters with me would definitely be a set back to the project.... :wink:


Oh, we could get my kids (9, 11 & 12) to watch your kids...

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 Post subject: DONE!!!
PostPosted: Sat Jul 08, 2006 8:47 pm 
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A big THANKS to Eddo for the four and a half hours to do the install on the '06! We maybe took our time and got things a little more perfect than needed (hey, we're engineers), but they look good. One improvement to the install directions is in marking the 6 holes for the self taping bolts into the frame. Either 1) Rock Lizard should move the hole up above the support so it can be marked and accessed, or 2) use a can of white POS spray paint or a white crayon to highlight the bolt hole. They can then be center punched much easier! (we went with the paint, but I think the crayon or moving the hole would be what I do if anyone wanted my hel installing the Sliders. Now to find a few rocks...

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 08, 2006 9:00 pm 
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Post pictures, or it didn't happen.:D So, your saying to paint the mounting plate for the unibody around the hole white, so the dark uniboy is more distinct for marking? I can't move the holes up any higher. They originally were about 1/2" higher, and I found that inside the unibody that high, there is an inner unibody structure overlap, that the bolts can't work with. So, I'll have to leave them where they are, but if I am understanding correctly on the paint thing, I will add that suggestion to my instructions. With all the angles, dark surfaces and shading, it kinda screws up your depth perception trying to eyeball dead center on those holes. Does the included spring loaded punch help at all instead of using the old hammer and punch method? How were the rest of the instructions/pictures? Any improvements or changes to those? Were they easy to understand?


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 08, 2006 10:01 pm 
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Rock Lizard wrote:
Post pictures, or it didn't happen.:D So, your saying to paint the mounting plate for the unibody around the hole white, so the dark uniboy is more distinct for marking? I can't move the holes up any higher. They originally were about 1/2" higher, and I found that inside the unibody that high, there is an inner unibody structure overlap, that the bolts can't work with. So, I'll have to leave them where they are, but if I am understanding correctly on the paint thing, I will add that suggestion to my instructions. With all the angles, dark surfaces and shading, it kinda screws up your depth perception trying to eyeball dead center on those holes. Does the included spring loaded punch help at all instead of using the old hammer and punch method? How were the rest of the instructions/pictures? Any improvements or changes to those? Were they easy to understand?


Photos? too bad it's dark already. maybe tomorrow...

The instructions were almost too detailed (almost, but not!). All we did was put the sliders up on the pinch weld held with the end bolts and hit each hole with a LIGHT shot of spray paint. When the sliders came off, we had a nice white circle to punch in the center of. Only 2 of the 6 need this - you know the ones - in board! and it's tough to get a spray can in there too. I think a white grease pencil or a crayon would be best (maybe even kids watercolor white paint!). The other nice thing about the paint (and could do with the crayon too) was that it marked the edge of the plate with a little over spray. This allowed us to measure back to make sure the distance to the hole center was correct. We also used an edge to line up the punch holes to make sure they were on the same line (are they???). That allowed us to get all of them in easier.

The auto-punch is outstanding. I ended up giving it to Eddo for all he did, plus he does a lot more metal work than I do. He seemed to really like it too. One other issue was the self taping bolts themselves. about 1/3 of them wouldn't cut, so we ended up removing a bolt that did tap, and putting the faulty one in the tapped hole - it worked.

Also, the 05-06 plastic needs 12ct of 6-20 1/2" sheet metal screws, plus matching washers that are at least 10-15mm so as not to pull through. It also seems to work well to put 2 in the short piece and 4 in the longer one. The end fasteners sould not need to be removed from the plastic.

The picts were OK, but a simple line drawing for a few of them might show much more...

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 Post subject: Skink Sliders in silver...
PostPosted: Sun Jul 09, 2006 11:22 am 
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Skink Sliders in silver.... http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2348831/2

Thanks Eddo!!!

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 Post subject: Re: Skink Sliders in silver...
PostPosted: Sun Jul 09, 2006 1:25 pm 
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moose wrote:
Skink Sliders in silver.... http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2348831/2

Thanks Eddo!!!


Glad it went good! Now you need to beat them up on the rocks in slade! I didnt know you and eddo were engineers. Did I tell you I was going to college to be a civil engineer? Im thinking of switching to mechanical engineering but Im not sure yet. I believe it would be nice to own a surveying company or work for the state alittle while till I can make my own business.

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