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Friday is Jeep Day!
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=17921		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  Video Guy [ Wed Feb 21, 2007 6:14 pm ]
Post subject:  Friday is Jeep Day!
... for me, at least. :wink: I'm taking a day off work to get KJ prepped for a trip to Smoky Mountains at the end of March. Things to do:

Rotate tires (free @ Tire Barn, it's been 5,000 miles)
Replace front differential's pinion seal (dealer = $100 warranty deductible)
Change oil & filter (dealer)
Check belts & hoses (dealer)

How hard is it to drain and fill both F and R axles? Dealership wants $399 for them, plus T-case using BG Synthetics. I just did the T-case in December. Cost me all of $9 for ATF+4, and $15 for the vacuum pump to inject the fluid. Can I drain the axles without jacking up the KJ?

I'll also be shopping for a rooftop luggage carrier. (Cargo area will be filled with baby playpen, booster seat, sleeping bags, toys -- if you've traveled with young kids, you know the deal.) Because we don't take road trips often, I'll probably just get a cheap nylon carrier. As much as I love the look of a basket, they invite theft by revealing everything you're carrying. They're good for trips into the woods, but I don't see them as being helpful in town.


T.J.
Author:  Jeepjeepster [ Wed Feb 21, 2007 6:27 pm ]
Post subject: 
The front axle has a drain plug and fill plug. On the rear, you can use a pump to pump the fluid out if you like, but I like to take the cover off and inspect everything. More so since since I have a locker. :?

It does make is alot easier to lift up the rear of the jeep and put jackstands under the frame so that the axle droops. That makes it easier to get to the fill plug on the rear diff.

For $400, you can buy jack stands, a jack, and some new tires for the heck of it. :lol: You would probably still have enough left over to buy a sweet looking cargo bag for the roof. 8)
Author:  2006KJSPORT4x4 [ Wed Feb 21, 2007 6:27 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Friday is Jeep Day!
Video Guy wrote:
How hard is it to drain and fill both F and R axles? Dealership wants $399 for them, plus T-case using BG Synthetics.

T.J.


Your dealer charges you that much to change the diffs and t-case???
Wow my dealer must be an alright one then, for 199.95 I can get the tranny (oil and filters), t-case, diffs, and oil all changed.....plus a check of the brake system, power steering, and coolant...

hmmmm.....
Author:  tommudd [ Wed Feb 21, 2007 8:15 pm ]
Post subject: 
199 is still a big chunk of change when you can do it yourself in an hour or so. Not that hard to do.
Video Guy if you were closer I could make you a deal on a roof bag, but Wal Mart has them or did for pretty cheap
Author:  1300ZUK [ Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:04 pm ]
Post subject: 
your front lube should get changed if they replace the Pinion seal properly

technically you should get a new Crush Sleeve after the yoke is removed, and to do that you have to remove the Pinion gear, which means you have to tear everything apart.....
Author:  FastTRX [ Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:22 pm ]
Post subject: 
You wana go run a trail or two at the Badlands on Saturday after you get it all done and ready??? :lol:

I seriously may be down in that area to go get some parts from a buddy down there and I was thinking about the badlands...It'd be nice to get a couple people together, even though its last minute. I'm freaking DYING to do some wheeling....it'd be muddy but fun!! :) If you're considering it, let me know.
Author:  moose [ Wed Feb 21, 2007 10:55 pm ]
Post subject: 
I like the hitch-haul I have. Easy to use, and You can add one of the soft rooftop carriers to it to keep stuff hidden. $50 at Wally-World.
Author:  Video Guy [ Thu Feb 22, 2007 11:40 am ]
Post subject: 
Thanks, everybody. Sounds like the front fluid will be changed out when the stealership replaces the pinion seal. That just leaves the back. I'll look into borrowing my neighbor's 3-ton jack and stands and do that job myself. I'll have to check the manual for fluid type and quantity. I bottle up the old oil and have the PFM store by my office recycle/dispose of it. They didn't charge me for the dirty ATF+4 from the t-case.

FastTRX, they're forecasting heavy rain Saturday and Sunday. Combined with snow melt, there could be significant flooding. I don't mind mud, but wheeling in a cold rain isn't my idea of fun. I'd rather have it 30 degrees and snowing that 40 degrees and raining. I'm weird that way. :? We'll hook up eventually. I want to get at least one more Badlands run in before I go wheeling at Coal Creek OHV Area with my brother.
Author:  1300ZUK [ Thu Feb 22, 2007 12:14 pm ]
Post subject: 
well ask them how they change it, Some dealers might just mark the pinion, pull the pinion off then replace the seal and re-install the pinion nut.


I don't know what Jeep Recommends for this.
Author:  Video Guy [ Fri Feb 23, 2007 5:00 pm ]
Post subject: 
Well, Jeep Day turned in to Jeep and Mazda Day. Got the KJ halfway done and then got my wife's Mazda6 serviced and replaced it's air filter (15K miles). Jeep Dealership was good to work with today. Warranty work was no problem, no hidden charges. :)

I'm about to drain and fill the KJ axles but want to make sure I bought the right gear oil. I have both SAE 75W-140 and SAE 75W-90. I have the "8.25" 3.73:1 open differential. Is this the same as the 8.25 Corporate mentioned in the owners manual? Owners manual says to use 140 in the front and 90 in the rear, unless you tow a trailer (then use 140 in the rear too). Although I don't tow anything, would there be any harm done in using 75W-140 in the rear?

T.J.
Author:  BVCRD [ Fri Feb 23, 2007 5:15 pm ]
Post subject: 
Video Guy wrote:
Well, Jeep Day turned in to Jeep and Mazda Day. Got the KJ halfway done and then got my wife's Mazda6 serviced and replaced it's air filter (15K miles). Jeep Dealership was good to work with today. Warranty work was no problem, no hidden charges. :)

I'm about to drain and fill the KJ axles but want to make sure I bought the right gear oil. I have both SAE 75W-140 and SAE 75W-90. I have the "8.25" 3.73:1 open differential. Is this the same as the 8.25 Corporate mentioned in the owners manual? Owners manual says to use 140 in the front and 90 in the rear, unless you tow a trailer (then use 140 in the rear too). Although I don't tow anything, would there be any harm done in using 75W-140 in the rear?

T.J.




Nope. That's what I put in mine. Better protection from heat I think.
Author:  Video Guy [ Mon Feb 26, 2007 10:07 am ]
Post subject: 
Just patting myself on the back. I've never done this kind of work before. :)

Draining the rear axle was a PITA. Hardest part was popping the diff cover seal to let the old oil drain out. After using a rubber mallet and screwdriver, the thing that worked best was the claw of a hammer. I used the bottom edge of the pumpkin for leverage while rocking the hammer to pry the cover away from the housing. Anyway, I'm glad it's done. I stuck with Mobil 1 synthetic 75W-90 for the rear, since that's what I had on hand. The RTV seems to have formed a nice seal, even in my 35-degree garage. I haven't detected any leakage. The money I saved was definitely worth the effort. I spent only $38 on gear oil and RTV sealant.

As much as I want to get the front done, I might wait for warmer weather -- unless my neighbor needs his 3-ton jack and stands back. 8)
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