DE area - I am thinking of custom light bars

ccattie · **Posted:** Fri Jan 26, 2007 10:45 am

I was thinking of doing a light bar like Kolesy did http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=14079&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=light+bar&start=0. I think he got the idea from a guy in MD or DE. I'm not real familiar with the KJ and how to route wires in it and stuff. Has anybodydone anything like that to theirs in the DE/MD/PA area? I'd love to hookup and talk.
-c

W3CSX · **Posted:** Fri Jan 26, 2007 12:13 pm

That would be me.

Here is a photo album of the installation. I made a write up on this. Give me a minute I look it up for you.
http://s39.photobucket.com/albums/e176/W3CSX/KCs/

Jason[/url]

ccattie · **Posted:** Fri Jan 26, 2007 12:22 pm

Mr Director sir

Can I email you or I you offline?
-c

W3CSX · **Posted:** Fri Jan 26, 2007 12:28 pm

But of course. My inbox is always open.

BTW I fixed the link in your orginal post.
Jason

W3CSX · **Posted:** Fri Jan 26, 2007 1:13 pm

Here you go.

Running the wires is not that difficult. I’m assuming you know how the wiring circuit works. Just looking for solutions how to get them on the roof. I ran the wires into the factory roof rack. This hides and protects them not to mention helps to keep a water tight feed thru.

Looking at the first photo. You can see how I ran the wires thru the end cap. The side of the end caps come off. To access this on the front open both doors. Pull the weather stripping back. Using a stiff flat tool (I used a small putty knife) slide between the seem in the end caps. Gently pry the side piece take care hear not to mar the plastic.

Drill a hole in the side of the plastic just large enough to pass the wires thru. To get into the cab. Just drill straight down thru the center of the plastic thru the outer medal. You will have to remove the trim on the end side first. After you run the wires seal both holes with RTV to keep water out.

Run the wires under the headliner trim and down the corner post trim. To up under the dash. This is where I mounted the relays. (photo 2) By keeping the relays inside you only have to run two instead of three wires thru the firewall. 1) Battery / relay; 2) High beam to switch. Vs. 1) High beam to switch; 2) switch to relay; 3) relay to lights

(relays under the dash)

Something else to note. Do not use the screws holding the factory roof rack on the jeep for the ground! I found out the hard way they are not sufficient. Yes you will get contact thru them but bouncing out on a trail at night they will loose continuity and the lights will flash on and off as you hit the bumps. I had to rerun the ground inside and just bolted them to the corner post.

Let me know if you have any questions.

ccattie · **Posted:** Mon Jan 29, 2007 4:24 pm

I understood up to the word difficult.

I know not how to make circuits. I was hoping there was either a walkthrough complete with PN's (so I know what to even buy) or the chance I could goto Columbia and hook up with you or something.
-c

W3CSX wrote:

Here you go.

Running the wires is not that difficult. I’m assuming you know how the wiring circuit works.

W3CSX · **Posted:** Tue Jan 30, 2007 12:39 am

Here is a link to a basic wiring diagram. click here For sake of demonstration I will use the wire colors as stated in the schematic.

Supplies needed

Starting with the relay run the green wire from post 86 to the out put of the switch. From the switch run a white wire thru a 3amp fuse then to your control source. In most states it is required to hook this wire to the high beams. This allows the lights to only come on when the high beams are running. I do recommend this. One cool thing about running this way. When you hit your low beams the off road lights will automatically shut off too. If you want the ability to run them at any time you can hook the white wire to a constant hot. Or better still run it to an ignition hot line so the key has to be on. This will keep you from killing your battery. Connect the relay to a ground using terminal 85. Use 18gage wire for these connections.

The yellow wire connects to the positive post on your battery. Feed thru the firewall and to terminal 30 on the relay. Make sure you hook a fuse in this line to protect everything (do not install the fuse until you are done). From terminal 87 run the red up the corner post to the roof as outlined in the earlier post. Hook this to the positive on your lights. The wire used in these connections needs to be 14gage if using 55watt lamps, 12gage for 100w, and 10gage for 150w.

Ground the lamps with the same gage wire used for your red line. Remember not to use the screws holding the factory rack on the roof. Run this back inside, I attached mine to corner post behind the trim as I ran the wires to the roof.

Most light kits will come with the parts need to wire up the lights. However usually they only supply sufficient wire to mount them on the front. For mounting on the roof. The red and yellow wires will have to be upgraded. Running the wires that long will require a much thicker gage to supply the same current. You can just substitute your own wire using the above guide line I have laid out.

Jason

Maximum Carnage · **Posted:** Fri Feb 02, 2007 1:26 pm

Great write up, I’m currently in the process of doing this to my Liberty.
Few questions on the rear/reverse lights; Did you wire them so they light up when you put the vehicle in reverse? Are you able to switch them on whenever you wish, without the vehicle in reverse? Or do they only work with the switch?

W3CSX · **Posted:** Fri Feb 02, 2007 10:00 pm

Maximum Carnage wrote:

Great write up, I’m currently in the process of doing this to my Liberty.
Few questions on the rear/reverse lights; Did you wire them so they light up when you put the vehicle in reverse? Are you able to switch them on whenever you wish, without the vehicle in reverse? Or do they only work with the switch?

Thanks,

Mine are wired both ways. This requires two control wires (white in the diagram). Using a double throw center off switch (DTSP). Connect the green wire to post #2. One control line taps the reverse lamps. Connect this to post #1. The other connects to a ignition hot line and get connected to post #3. With the switch in the up position the lights are on no matter what gear you are in. Center position, the lights will always be off. Drop the switch to the bottom and the lights will come on whenever you put the transmission in reverse.

If you only want the lights to come on when in backing up. You can skip the switch and just run the white wire to terminal 86 on the relay. You just will not be able to keep them from coming on while backing.

Jason

DE area - I am thinking of custom light bars

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