Ok boyz and gyrls,
Today I rolled out of the garage after almost two months of cutting and welding, bolting, swearing, and crying with the Liberty on 33 inch tires and over 14" of clear space under the front skid plate. From bottom of the fender flares to the floor it measures 40" front and back.
I am not done yet, but it can be safely driven. I need to iron some minor bugs out, develop different type of a-arm, or buy a set of longer steering knuckles from Superlift (or make them), it needs a rear sway bar, and Rusty's is making me new rear lower arms.
A full story of the mods will be submited to the tech pages in the couple of weeks, and I will posting pictures soon.
The debut, I hope will be at the OK 4WD ride this coming weekend. If not at the Nor'easter!
Sorry for the tease, but I am so, so happy it actually work, and is working well.
And I am really PO about missing Moab, and not having the the time for the MA group of late. 
This took much, much longer than anticipated. On a scale of 1-10, I would rate this around an 8 for your typical shade tree mechanic like myself, due to the welding involved, and the engineering.
Cost:
Rear Driveshaft: $600
Lift kit (if you don't have one): $350 to $800
Front hitch $125
Steel: $100
Cheap e-bay 3" spacer lift: $150 (add this to your 2.5 inch kit....)
Nuts and Bolts $150 (big metric bolts/threaded rod don't come cheap)
Rear Lower Arms: $200
Modify rear upper arm: $100
Custom a-arms $350
Wheel Align: $50
Time spent: roughly 60 hours, say at $60/hr $3600 ( free for me, just a insane hobby I have!)
Future upgrading:
Full rear coils to get rid of spacers.
Bilstien Coilover front shock assembly (learned something very interesting about Bilstien coilovers at SEMA Off-Road!)
Rear Sway bar
New front steering knuckles/spindles or New fully adjustable front upper a-arms
Tri-link to replace upper rear boomer-rang
Bilstien 5150 shocks for the rear
That's it folks, until I post the pictures
Al
The clubs photographer is to busy to leave his Greenhouse. 
