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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2018 1:12 am 
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casm wrote:
CaptainDean: please check your PMs. Thanks.

Thanks casm,

Checked my PM's and found your 'spoiler alert' to the VAT. I'm guessing that is Value Added Tax? I can't seem to apply "VAT" to an English meaning. The link also used the acronym VAT and did not explain the meaning of it. Regardless, I should expect to get a bill from some government agency, foreign and/or domestic, for 20% ($290) of my $1450 purchase. That is okay, because the cost is already half of the domestic (IDParts) price.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Reconnected EGR piping, plugged EGR at intake, removed butterfly valve, removed crossover pipe, plugged exhaust port.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member.
Running on 2 cylinders, big clunking in engine, water in oil.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2018 1:22 am 
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Over the weekend I wrapped the engine compartment wire harnesses with white tape. In the process I discovered my Jeep has a cheaper fuel filter instead of the factory filter. This cheap filter does not have the "Water In Fuel" sensor. (Jeeze, I sure could have used that!!) I always wondered what those two connectors were for, hanging next to the fuel filter.

So, I'm planning to order the Upgraded Fuel Filter Head Assembly from IDParts that includes the Water In Fuel sensor. It comes with wires that I apparently will have to splice into the factory wire harness.

Any thoughts on this? Should I order a different product from another company?

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Reconnected EGR piping, plugged EGR at intake, removed butterfly valve, removed crossover pipe, plugged exhaust port.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member.
Running on 2 cylinders, big clunking in engine, water in oil.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2018 3:49 am 
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Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
About the FCV, just pull it out, recycle the aluminum and brass, and never have to remember it again! :lol:

word of caution, even though it's not absolutely necessary, I would hang on to the electrical componentry just so you can test whether the ECM is happy before you decide on what tune you want. The stock one will pop 2 codes without them

CAC = Charge Air Cooler (yeah, it's an intercooler. Between the turbo and the engine)

I haven't seen mine in a while, but I don't think your idea will work. The part you showed the picture of, IS the part that replaces the EGR /intake elbow. OEM uses the EGR valve and cooler elbow gizmowhacky to bolt to the manifold. There isn't any place on it that would allow a CAC hose to attach, until you get to the end of the FCV part.

So

That square hose adapter thingy + the short rubber adapter piece + the aluminum elbow
replaces
all the EGR valve + EGR cooler, hoses, and piping + the FCV assembly.

This allows the proper configured CAC hose (from OEM to Samcos) to function as if the original stuff were still there.

https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/tech/SasquatchParts.com%20-Weeks%20Kit%20Stage%201%20Installation.pdf You may have to open an account with Sasquatch to view that, if you haven't already.

Just in case you haven't had your fill of upgrades thrown in your path, you should check out WWDiesel's fuel filter setup. Very compact, not only has the WIF sensor (racor) but includes a glass sludge bowl and 2 stage filtration to less than 4 micron. The most harmful particle size in any hydraulic system, we're told, are 5-7 micron, and the factory filter only reliably filters about 20 micron.
Not saying it's going to fall apart without it, but this filtration system was spec'd when the fuel was a very different composition. Without the sulfur the particulate solids have nothing to prevent them from attacking the close tolerance metals in the CP3 pump and the injectors. Only you can decide whether it's worthwhile for you.

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 148Kmi

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15017911
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2018 9:27 pm 
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CaptainDean wrote:
casm wrote:
CaptainDean: please check your PMs. Thanks.

Thanks casm,

Checked my PM's and found your 'spoiler alert' to the VAT. I'm guessing that is Value Added Tax? I can't seem to apply "VAT" to an English meaning.


Yep, that's exactly what it means. Apologies for not making that clearer.

Quote:
The link also used the acronym VAT and did not explain the meaning of it. Regardless, I should expect to get a bill from some government agency, foreign and/or domestic, for 20% ($290) of my $1450 purchase. That is okay, because the cost is already half of the domestic (IDParts) price.


One difference between VAT in the UK and sales tax in the US: unless stated that a price is ex-VAT (the equivalent of 'no sales tax'), it's generally understood that it's included in the retail selling price of an item.

You shouldn't be receiving a bill for it since it's likely pre-factored into the parts prices. But you shouldn't have to pay it either, since the parts are being shipped outside of the EU. This is where you may want to check into whether or not it was included in the cost of the parts that you purchased.

_________________
2005 KJ CRD Limited 4x4:
225/75R16 Goodyear TrailRunner ATs
Yeti's Stage 2 tune
HDS Model 001 Thermostat
Stage 1 & 2 Weeks Kit
Hayden 2986 fan clutch / GM 11-blade fan
Samco Intercooler Hoses
V6 Airbox


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2018 10:21 pm 
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Posts: 384
Location: Southeast Michigan
CaptainDean wrote:
Does anyone have a picture of the Weeks kit installed? I'm thinking I can use the factory elbow and simply install the 'Weeks welded 4-bolt flange and hose connection' directly onto the factory elbow. Will that work?
The factory elbow bolts to the intake manifold. The 'Weeks welded 4-bolt flange and hose connection' also bolts to the intake manifold, replacing the factory elbow (or at least a small part of it)

On the other end of the elbow is the FCV. You can not bolt the Weeks flange in place of the FCV because the bolt patterns are different (I'm pretty sure). However, bolted to the intercooler side of the FCV is a factory flange, similar to the Weeks flange. This can be bolted directly to the elbow, in place of the FCV. Again, I'm pretty sure. I seem to remember seeing it in a thread a while back.

CaptainDean wrote:
I may have to add an extension to the original hose from the Intecooler to the original elbow to bypass the FCV.
If you end up doing what I described above - remove factory flange from FCV, remove FCV from factory elbow, bolt factory flange directly to factory elbow in place of FCV - you'll be a few inches short of the factory setup, and yeah you'll probably want to add an extension. Otherwise if you do manage to make the hose fit, it will be stretched pretty tight.

But if you're trying to remove the FCV functionality while keeping the intake as stock as possible, the best option I've seen is to remove the two screws holding the butterfly valve inside the FCV, and take that piece out. Then the FCV is effectively acting as a spacer between the factory elbow and the factory flange, and you're not changing the length of the elbow assembly.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 2:47 am 
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casm wrote:
Yep, that's exactly what it means. Apologies for not making that clearer. One difference between VAT in the UK and sales tax in the US: unless stated that a price is ex-VAT (the equivalent of 'no sales tax'), it's generally understood that it's included in the retail selling price of an item. You shouldn't be receiving a bill for it since it's likely pre-factored into the parts prices. But you shouldn't have to pay it either, since the parts are being shipped outside of the EU. This is where you may want to check into whether or not it was included in the cost of the parts that you purchased.

Thanks for the clarification casm. Tonight I sent a message asking about the VAT and whom might be collecting it. [News at 11] I'll find out tomorrow morning since they are awake and working while I'm asleep and snoring.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Reconnected EGR piping, plugged EGR at intake, removed butterfly valve, removed crossover pipe, plugged exhaust port.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member.
Running on 2 cylinders, big clunking in engine, water in oil.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 3:03 am 
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joe_ wrote:
CaptainDean wrote:
Does anyone have a picture of the Weeks kit installed? I'm thinking I can use the factory elbow and simply install the 'Weeks welded 4-bolt flange and hose connection' directly onto the factory elbow. Will that work?
The factory elbow bolts to the intake manifold. The 'Weeks welded 4-bolt flange and hose connection' also bolts to the intake manifold, replacing the factory elbow (or at least a small part of it)

On the other end of the elbow is the FCV. You can not bolt the Weeks flange in place of the FCV because the bolt patterns are different (I'm pretty sure). However, bolted to the intercooler side of the FCV is a factory flange, similar to the Weeks flange. This can be bolted directly to the elbow, in place of the FCV. Again, I'm pretty sure. I seem to remember seeing it in a thread a while back.

CaptainDean wrote:
I may have to add an extension to the original hose from the Intecooler to the original elbow to bypass the FCV.
If you end up doing what I described above - remove factory flange from FCV, remove FCV from factory elbow, bolt factory flange directly to factory elbow in place of FCV - you'll be a few inches short of the factory setup, and yeah you'll probably want to add an extension. Otherwise if you do manage to make the hose fit, it will be stretched pretty tight.

But if you're trying to remove the FCV functionality while keeping the intake as stock as possible, the best option I've seen is to remove the two screws holding the butterfly valve inside the FCV, and take that piece out. Then the FCV is effectively acting as a spacer between the factory elbow and the factory flange, and you're not changing the length of the elbow assembly.

Thanks joe_ for all the information. I'm a little dismayed by the Weeks kit because it is the minimum replacement for the FCV yet still cost $260 + tax + shipping. If I'm going to spend that much, I'd rather get the welded fitting that bolts to the intake manifold, plus an aluminum tube that goes all the way to the Intercooler output, and a pair of rubber tubing sections to connect at each end, plus T-bolt clamps. (Actually, I may be able to bend a piece of 2" conduit into shape that would fit my liking.)

Yesterday I sent a message to IDParts asking if I could purchase only the welded fitting that bolts to the intake manifold. So far they have not answered.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Reconnected EGR piping, plugged EGR at intake, removed butterfly valve, removed crossover pipe, plugged exhaust port.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member.
Running on 2 cylinders, big clunking in engine, water in oil.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 3:09 am 
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Posts: 190
My wire transfer arrived and The VM Specialist is preparing my order. They asked two more questions:

1) Are my Connecting Rods the machined surface style or the Frozen Snap style. (I have the Frozen Snapped ones)
Image

2) Are my wrist pins 30mm or 32mm in diameter? (Mine are 32mm)

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Reconnected EGR piping, plugged EGR at intake, removed butterfly valve, removed crossover pipe, plugged exhaust port.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member.
Running on 2 cylinders, big clunking in engine, water in oil.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 3:42 am 
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Posts: 190
CaptainDean wrote:
Does anyone have a picture of the Weeks kit installed? I'm thinking I can use the factory elbow and simply install the 'Weeks welded 4-bolt flange and hose connection' directly onto the factory elbow. Will that work? I may have to add an extension to the original hose from the Intecooler to the original elbow to bypass the FCV.

Hmmm, I'm quoting myself...

After a great deal of thought, I have decided to use the factory elbow to the intake manifold and cap the EGR port. I'll omit the FCV module but still use the FCV hose connection onto the factory elbow. Making an extension to the normal Intercooler to intake hose will be easy with a section of large metal conduit or exhaust pipe. I am a firm believer in the T-bolt clamps.

For now, I have ordered the original Water in Fuel sensor which should re-activate the Water In Fuel light. My fuel filter only had a drain petcock, no WIF sensor. This all explains the two mysterious electrical connectors hanging next to the filter head.

Thanks joe_, casm, WWDiesel and GordnadoCRD for the suggestions, discussion, definitions, and links. I really-really like the idea of the Weeks kit and the Sasquatch improved fuel filter with WIF sensor and fuel heater, but the added cost of $260 and $145 plus tax and shipping are sticking in my craw at the moment. I can accomplish an adequate version for around $60. It sucks being on a tight budget.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Reconnected EGR piping, plugged EGR at intake, removed butterfly valve, removed crossover pipe, plugged exhaust port.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member.
Running on 2 cylinders, big clunking in engine, water in oil.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 4:52 am 
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Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
Quote:
It sucks being on a tight budget.

I certainly hear ya.
Using the OEM system...
If you are sure the exhaust tubing behind the engine is fully blocked, you can pull the cooling fitting from the intake side of the head (center on intake side) and replace with a plug. Then pull the Y pipe from the cabin heater core return, and use a straight hose coupling (hose mender?) and a couple of clamps to restore the return path from the heater. Best to do this when you have the head off. This allows you to eliminate several possible sources for coolant leakage, since without exhaust, there is no need for cooling the EGR. If you don't have a sure-thing EGR blockoff plate, Seth sells the Weeks 2 kit separately with everything needed for that. https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/products/egr-delete-jeep-liberty-crd-upgrade/
and this will allow remove the offending exhaust crossover tube entirely.

Also, having the exhaust tubing fully blocked, (or removed), will prevent the exhaust soot from becoming asphalt when mixed with the oil vapors from the CCV in the intake. If you have opted for a Provent, then you won't have to worry about oil vapors either.

Anyway, leave the FCV and it's CAC hose fitting in place, and pull the brass butterfly valve plate out. Also best to do while the engine is apart. Clean the EGR & Intake manifold as best you can before re-assembly.****

This way, you won't have any weirdness with your CAC hose. The OEM or any OEM replacement will work, and you still have the electrical bits in place to prevent diagnostic trouble codes, but the FCV and EGR won't be able to cause their dirty rotten badness.

If you're happy with the way it runs when you get it back together, it can be left that way indefinitely. Me, on the other hand, I tend to balk at leaving any untapped potential on the table.... :goink:

Edit: ****Someone on here, and I cannot for the life of me remember who, found a novel approach to blocking the Intake pressure from EGR bits. The little fitting that comes down from the oem elbow, they drilled and tapped and threaded in a pipe plug. That, with the exhaust plug on the other side also would allow pulling the egr cooler and crossover pipe. If you remove the EGR solenoid from the valve, you could bin the whole valve, cooler, and coolant hose mess, and still look factory OEM.

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 148Kmi

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15017911
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2018 1:12 am 
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Thanks GordnadoCRD,

This is a lot of good information. Maybe I did not post my progress well enough -- I have the engine out of the Jeep and on an engine stand. It is nearly all apart, only the crank is still in the block.

I've taken the EGR cooler and valve off and the exhaust manifold EGR port has been capped with IDParts' stainless steel $30 cap. It was tough to spend $30 for something the size of a quarter. By weight and size, it could have been made of pure Silver to actually be worth 30 buckaroos.

In that vein, part of your information was pure Gold; the part about drilling and tapping the factor intake elbow to fit a pipe plug into the EGR port. Genius.

I've mentioned before that I don't like peering into a engine compartment shaded by the hood and looking at a black engine and black engine parts. So, I wrapped the wiring harness with white tape. Also (sorry purists) I have painted the engine yellow. I'll be able to see anything on this engine. When I pop the hood, it will seem like the sun has just come out from behind a cloud.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Reconnected EGR piping, plugged EGR at intake, removed butterfly valve, removed crossover pipe, plugged exhaust port.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member.
Running on 2 cylinders, big clunking in engine, water in oil.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2018 3:58 am 
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Posts: 1740
Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
They can actually look quite nice.

Somewhere in here, at one time, Gypsy62 posted pictures of his cleaned and painted engine. Beautiful! A work of artistic genius!

WWDiesel's got a nice looking engine wiring loom as well. Red, if I recall correctly.

Make sure to post pics of yours.

Mine is pretty much completely function over form. I got pieces of fire blankets sized to fit between the engine and the fuel rail, and lines. Wrapped and blanketed the exhaust and turbo.
This keeps the engine compartment temperature down, and separates the fuel system and electrical system from the heat of the engine. I made it so the injector valley gets full air flow to keep them from getting heat soaked.
I then decided the electrical system needed even more heat insulation, so I make one to fit over all of the fuel rail, lines, and injectors, but under the electrical loom and bits. No more wiring loom getting all melty n stuff over the top of the engine.

But it's black, dressed in multiple layers of black welding grade fire insulation and covered with the original black cover. Ninja all the way, baby. All function, no artistic taste whatsoever.

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 148Kmi

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15017911
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Sat Jan 27, 2018 11:11 pm 
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Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
Here is the link to Gypsy62's engine overhaul and beautification project.

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=85466

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 148Kmi

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15017911
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Wed Jan 31, 2018 12:57 am 
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I'll read those posts during the next couple weeks. There is a lot of verbiage there.

Meanwhile, The VM Specialist said, "...your parts, like Elvis, have left the building." It took a while, but they were waiting for the wrist pin bushings to arrive before shipping out my order. They finally gave up and sent the order with four low mileage used connecting rods with wrist pin bushings already installed.

That is cool, because the wrist pin and bushing are tapered at the top. I was wondering how I would press those in and get the right. Now, there is nothing to worry about.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Reconnected EGR piping, plugged EGR at intake, removed butterfly valve, removed crossover pipe, plugged exhaust port.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member.
Running on 2 cylinders, big clunking in engine, water in oil.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Sat Feb 03, 2018 11:30 pm 
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The parts have finally arrived !!! Quick inventory and everything is there. The UPS driver is new and instructed us to get a money order for the import fees and make it out to The VM Specialist. That was the wrong instruction, but we were able to cross-out the payee name and write-in UPS. It was only $56, not 20% of the order which would have been $290.

Had to do some roof repairs over the porch that took all day Saturday. Tomorrow I will gather everything together and get organized. Tomorrow is also Superbowl Sunday so I'll be interrupted again.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Reconnected EGR piping, plugged EGR at intake, removed butterfly valve, removed crossover pipe, plugged exhaust port.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member.
Running on 2 cylinders, big clunking in engine, water in oil.


Top
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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Mon Feb 05, 2018 12:43 am 
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Getting started but have to stop. Found the new cylinder sleeve did not come with o-rings nor shims. I could try the old ones but would have to coat them with some high heat sealant. I think it's best to order from IDParts and wait a week longer.

Also, the "Complete Gasket set" does not contain the oil cooler gasket. I'll order than from IDParts as well.

While I'm ordering from IDParts, will also get the approved plugs for the EGR coolilng, a new fuel filter and oil filter.

Almost there. Glad I don't live on Mars.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Reconnected EGR piping, plugged EGR at intake, removed butterfly valve, removed crossover pipe, plugged exhaust port.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member.
Running on 2 cylinders, big clunking in engine, water in oil.


Top
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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Wed Feb 07, 2018 2:42 am 
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CaptainDean wrote:
I am now planning to replace nearly all the bearings and seals in the engine. It spins very nicely on the main bearings. Balancing that against the extreme effort to change the main bearings, I will not change them.

However, I will change the individual rod crank bearings, the piston wrist pin bearings, and the rings on 1, 2, x, 4. #3 I will replace the injector, sleeve, piston, rings, rod and bearings since it was the traumatized cylinder. The head will get rebuilt by the automotive machine shop.

Certainly, the rear main and front main seals will also get changed. While I'm at it, I'll change the oil pump. It's practically new at 96000, but the oil has had a lot of black carbon blow by which has probably chewed away at it.

Dean.

Here is something everyone should learn... (Just returned from the machine shop)

If you clean the inside of your engine with bearings installed, take note that Super Clean and Purple Power will do two bad things: 1) they attack aluminum parts by eating away at the surface. 2) They leave a rough film on the castings and machined surfaces no matter how much you rinse.

Note. After cleaning and rinsing the engine, I coated all the bearing and mating surfaces with Engine Assembly Lube to prevent rust during storage. However, after 3 weeks of storage, I had to use a green scrubbie to remove the rough film from the crank journals. Also, the crank main journals used to rotate really sweet, but now they scrape a little. To avoid a huge bearing problem later, I now have to remove the crank assembly (crank shaft and supports) to clean the main journals. While at it, I'll replace the main bearings.

This was a step that I did not want to do simply because the crank assembly requires quite a careful effort to re-install, and they were in good shape.

Still waiting on parts, and ordered a few more.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Reconnected EGR piping, plugged EGR at intake, removed butterfly valve, removed crossover pipe, plugged exhaust port.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member.
Running on 2 cylinders, big clunking in engine, water in oil.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Sun Feb 11, 2018 11:40 pm 
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While I'm waiting for parts to arrive, I finally examined the front differential. The name of this thread is "Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking"; I believe I have finally found the source of these noises.

The front differential backlash is way out of whack. Notice the amount of shaft rotation marked on the front differential.
Image

The shaft rotation free-play calculates to 14º -- the surface of the shaft turns 5/16". By design, a properly adjusted differential should only allow the propeller shaft to rotate 0.3º, or .12 inches. I'm sure that everyone has free play (backlash) of 1º or maybe 2º.

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2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Reconnected EGR piping, plugged EGR at intake, removed butterfly valve, removed crossover pipe, plugged exhaust port.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member.
Running on 2 cylinders, big clunking in engine, water in oil.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Mon Feb 12, 2018 12:14 pm 
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Location: Central GA
On the front differential:
Keep in mind, measuring the way you did from the outside, you might be picking up some additional play from some other items like the spider gears and CV joints. :roll:
Only true way to measure pinion backlash or play is to open differential up and measure the gear with a dial indicator.

I prefer to see tighter readings of 0.004 -- 0.006 with new carrier bearings as new bearings are always going to seat in a bit (loosen up) after a little run time.
Book says Dial indicator readings should be between 0.12 mm (0.005 in.) and 0.20 mm (0.008 in.).
If backlash is not within specifications you have to transfer the necessary amount of shim thickness from one side of the carrier housing to the other to achieve the desired readings while still maintaining carrier bearings preload.

:SOMBRERO:

Image

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05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
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98 Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair,K&N


Last edited by WWDiesel on Fri Apr 20, 2018 4:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2018 12:55 am 
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I'll have to do that this weekend. This is an area that scares me a little. 100 years ago I rebuilt an El Camino rear end and it howled like mad. This time I'll have to be more attentive than my 17 year old self way back then.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Reconnected EGR piping, plugged EGR at intake, removed butterfly valve, removed crossover pipe, plugged exhaust port.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member.
Running on 2 cylinders, big clunking in engine, water in oil.


Top
 Profile  
 
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