It is currently Mon Jun 01, 2020 4:09 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 588 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 26, 27, 28, 29, 30  Next
Author Message
 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Sat Aug 31, 2019 6:49 pm 
Offline
LOST Member

Joined: Sat Oct 13, 2018 10:09 pm
Posts: 236
Location: Australia
Diesel Dan wrote:
I don't put the ATF in the fuel, just the engine oil.
Mercedes Benz even published an article years ago about running ATF in fuel, they did not recommend it.

I am interested to read the article you speak of. Until a few years ago I was an active member of Peach parts & then Pelican Parts when ownership of the site changed.

_________________
Australian KJ CRD 2006


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2019 1:21 am 
Offline
LOST Member
User avatar

Joined: Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am
Posts: 398
I'm back. Sorry to have been gone so long.

July 7 I took my pistons / wrist pins / new bushings / pistons to the machinist. Today (Sat, Oct 19; 3 months 12 days later) I finally got them back. I did feel like going all Popeye on him, but I didn't. However, this is the last time I take my business to him. I'll ship things across the island to Hilo for any machine work, or maybe even to the island of Oahu to get machine work done.

Tomorrow I'll finally get back into this job and clean the carbon layer off the inside surfaces of the crankcase. It is black but not thick; I can not scrape chunks off. I plan to spray the inside of the crankcase (without including the crankshaft/bearings) with oven cleaner to take off the carbon. Afterward I plan to continue with SuperClean, the purple engine cleaner. Maybe I should do SuperClean first to get oil off, then Oven Cleaner to remove carbon, then SuperClean again to remove Oven Cleaner.

Anyone have better suggestions to take carbon off the inside surfaces of an engine? I don't want to take the block all apart again and have the block boiled.

Once I get the engine together again, I can include a quart or two of transmission fluid in the oil to clean the remainder and drain it after the first day of driving. After that, I hope this engine will be clean, lean and mean.

See, I did read the latest posts since my last one. All caught up now. Thanks everyone for your suggestions.

This year has been a very odd one. Typically summer is the rainy season; this year it rained all summer and through the fall. Now the weather guessers are predicting the rain will continue until April. Apparently global warming comes with a rinse cycle.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2019 6:48 pm 
Offline
LOST Addict
User avatar

Joined: Sat Aug 27, 2016 9:12 pm
Posts: 2518
Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
Good to hear from you again!
Wow, other than shipping costs, it sounds like you would get the machine work far sooner elsewhere. :banghead:
Sorry it's been such a long drawn out endeavor.
Your situation is unique enough I'm not sure how to proceed.
With restoring cast iron cookware, they say to soak in oven cleaner (EasyOff) to remove the carbon, then in vinegar to remove rust, but that's probably not an issue with the crankcase.

I don't know how well ATF would work.
Being a turbocharged diesel, I would be more inclined to leave it run at a fast idle (8-900 rpm) for a couple hours rather than drive it, as carbon sludge being cleaned away from crankcase surfaces and being carried in the oil could damage the turbo pretty quickly if it's spooled up to boost levels with carbon sludge and ATF solvent in the oil. It could damage the bearings and seals PDQ.

With normally aspirated petrol engines in the past, I have substituted a quart of mineral spirits in an oil change, mixed with the motor oil before putting it in, so it didn't hit the oil pump in pure solvent form. Never drove them, just used regular 30 weight, and left it idle for a half hour, then changed again when hot. Seemed to work pretty well, but I wouldn't try it with a diesel.

Thanks for keeping us informed on what you try and how it works.

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Mon Nov 04, 2019 12:45 am 
Offline
LOST Member
User avatar

Joined: Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am
Posts: 398
Thanks for the greeting GordnadoCRD !

Finally started to work on the engine again. Got the block cleaned with Oven Cleaner, then rinsed with vinegar to neutralize the lye-based oven cleaner. The block is cast iron-colored now instead of my basic carbon black.

First was to do a test to ensure the new jets actually work that shoot oil up under the piston skirts & lube the wrist pins. Assembled the counter-weight assembly, oil draw tube and the oil pan. Filled with clean oil and cranked it with a hefty electric drill on the crank pulley. I'm glad I made that test because those jets did not shoot oil, not a drop.

Disassembled again and cleaned the jets. They were filled with junk from all my cleaning the block efforts. Through this week I hope to spend an hour each night flushing and filtering the oil. Will get some more oil galley plugs in preparation for cleaning them out with a galley cleaning brush. I'll flush a couple times with oils, including transmission oil and Marvel Mystery Oil.

I'm hosting the Home Brewers' Meeting Sat Nov 9 so I'll only get 1 day this weekend.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Sun Nov 17, 2019 10:40 pm 
Offline
LOST Member
User avatar

Joined: Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am
Posts: 398
Greetings everyone. I have finally passed a barrier and can start moving forward again on this engine. Although I did find one more thing to correct before continuing. Anyway, here is my progress on cleaning this engine.

Image
While using Easy-Off oven cleaner, I first realized the spray pattern was far too wide. So I switched the cap with a Blaster aerosol can. This provided a straight stream of oven cleaner that did not get all over parts I didn't want to expose to oven cleaner.

Image
Oven cleaner did a good job of removing the carbon. By the end of 3 cans, the inside surfaces of the block were clean. As mentioned before, I rinsed everything with a solution of vinegar and water to neutralize the oven cleaner.

Image
I tried Jeep dealership before starting and they do not stock oil galley plugs anymore for our 2005 diesels. Item #11, Chrysler p/n 04723211 showed 1 in stock on the east coast of the mainland. NAPA brought some from across the island but they were too small, 15mm. O'Reilley has 8 in stock but they're in Texas. The $0.49 part carries $23 in shipping. The end of the oil galley measures 0.710" (18.5 mm). If push comes to shove, I can still use my original plugs with a good gooping of Permatex gasket sealer. I don't really want to go there I'd worry for the first 10,000 miles.

Image
This is the front of the engine right after pulling the first Freeze Plug style oil galley plug.

Image
A closer picture shows a solid coating of carbon.

Image
Got a Universal Gun Cleaning Kit for $12 and it did it's job perfectly. The rods were long enough to clean all the way through the block.

Image
I had the block upside down on the stand but turned the picture upside down so the block would be recognizable. Unfortunately that showed the surplus cleaning solution defying gravity and flowing upward.

Image
With the block upside down, the brush bristles are visible as they pass the oil jet hole.

Image
Shaft of the brush is also visible through the same hole.

Image
Since the gun cleaning kit rod is smooth and round, it can be chucked into a drill for better performance. I'm sure this method took an hour off the job.

Image
The first end result was a clean oil galley clear through the engine. The engine stand is partially visible at the far end of the oil galley. After seeing this image larger on the computer, I realize it needs some more cleaning. Particles of carbon are still attached to the oil galley walls.

Image
The second end result is actual oil shooting up through all four of the jets. Had my wife take the picture and I realize it caught something I didn't expect. The jets of oil seem to pulse. I imagine this is caused by the low oil pressure from the drill only spinning the crank at about 500 RPM. Also noticeable in this picture is some of the jets need to be aimed. I'll have to make a cardboard target that mimics the hole in the piston; when oil shoots through a small hole when aimed correctly.

Regarding the 'one more thing to correct', I found a section of an O-ring laying against cylinder #1 sleeve. After examining it with a Jewelers' Loop, I concluded it is a section cut from a cylinder sleeve during installation. One of them did feel a little odd while going in, but I don't remember which one it was.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2019 7:19 am 
Offline
LOST Member

Joined: Sat Oct 13, 2018 10:09 pm
Posts: 236
Location: Australia
Looks like you have been busy Dean!
I would not reuse those plugs.
You should be able to get brass replacements on ebay.
Even with new plugs you will need some sort of sealant.
Good luck!

_________________
Australian KJ CRD 2006


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2019 7:37 pm 
Offline
LOST Member

Joined: Thu Feb 18, 2010 12:12 am
Posts: 171
Location: Alaska
You could thread the gallery holes with a tapered pipe tap and plug them that way. Or make your own plugs with a press.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2019 1:32 am 
Offline
LOST Member
User avatar

Joined: Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am
Posts: 398
layback40,

Just ordered a pack of five 18mm steel freeze plugs on eBay, $5.99 + free shipping, and even got $0.30 off equaling $5.69. Thanks for the eBay recommendation. I'd rather get steel anyway because then there's no dissimilar metal action; however brass is pretty benign and would not be problematic to a steel block.

turblediesel,

Threading the holes was the same suggestion the machinist had. I do have a press, but I don't have any metal laying around.

Both:

Certainly, coating the hole and the plug with Permatex is the way to go. That's what I plan to do.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2019 6:46 am 
Offline
LOST Addict
User avatar

Joined: Sat Aug 27, 2016 9:12 pm
Posts: 2518
Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
Spent some otherwise-wasted time running around to see what the "experts" and engine builders around here would do in such a case... Found out that all of the expansion plugs that O'Reillys' had were Dorman, and none were as close as what you found.

As a machinist or engine builder fix, it's what was said above. Either thread the block and use a threaded plug, or make your own plug.

If you have found "true" 18mm cup type plug you might could make it 18.5mm with hammer, anvil, the right size drift or socket, and a nice deadblow BFH. Just enough to expand the sides and hold it until the Loctite red, "stud and bearing mount" inside, and the JB-Weld outside had a chance to set up properly.

Oh, by the way, 0.710" is 18.034mm. 18.5mm is 0.7283465" :lol:
I wasn't sure which was correct so I had him check both ways.

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2019 2:38 pm 
Offline
LOST Newbie

Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2019 4:40 pm
Posts: 70
Location: Columbia, TN
When I run atf in the engine oil I don't drive the vehicle. Warm high idle for 10-15 minutes. Personally I don't want a load on the engine. Just using the detergents of the atf to help clean things up. Then I'll let drain for 1/2 hr or more, depending what else I have going on.

_________________
2006 Liberty CRD
2006 GMC LBZ


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Tue Dec 10, 2019 3:49 am 
Offline
LOST Member
User avatar

Joined: Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am
Posts: 398
Thanks for all the responses of the Expansion Plugs subject. GordnadoCRD, I made a mistake on the price saying $0.49 each. I remember they were $0.79 each and maybe it was from NAPA. My $0.49 statement was an attempt of making a point about the vast price differences. I sure thought it was from O'Reillys. ...anyway, on with the show !

I have been dreading the task of taking the crank out one more time. After seeing carbon particles the size of grains of sand, I did not want to have those clog up the hydraulic lash adjusters again. Also, the crank was "sticky" in that it was difficult to get turning by hand but did spin once broken loose. I had imagined finding more granules of carbon in the hollows of the bearings. Instead, what I found was granules that got into the bearings and smashed onto the crankshaft main journals. The rods were not installed so none got smooshed on those journals.

Almost entire crankshaft. Didn't capture rod #1 journal nor the front main journal. Close ups of each main journal are below. The oil pump sends oil through the filter first, then to the main bearings. The filter is in the back so the first journals lubed are in the back. This is why the rear-most main journals were dirtier than the front-most.

Image Almost entire crankshaft

These images are the main journals #1 through #5. #1 is the front main, #5 is the rear main. The book says to use special tool to protect the front pulley shaft from damaging the front main bearing. I found that a paint roller cover fits snugly and does the job perfectly.

Image Front main.
Image #2 main
Image #3 main
Image #4 main
Image Rear main

The bearings did not suffer any accumulation of carbon nor removal of material.
Image

Cleaning carbon from the main journals was easy with EasyOff oven cleaner. A thorough coat of oven cleaner with 5 minutes to work, then scrub with a scratchy Green Scrubby kitchen scrubber pad. The carbon came off easily and the crank returned to it's good old shiny self. Also, someone posted that they used a Lye-based cleaner overnight and in the morning the bearings were gone. That had me worried too, so I rinsed everything with water, Simple Green, and vinegar after an hour or 2 of cleaning each day. I thank that guy too.

The next day I got the crank installed and it felt much better. No more stickiness to overcome. I hope to finish the lower end this coming weekend. However, the home brewers are meeting on Saturday so I won't get much done that day.

My next chore is to remove the cylinder sleeves again to find the one with a broken O-ring. I think it was jug #4... ...I'll do extra cleaning and lubing before installing the jugs again.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Tue Jan 21, 2020 3:08 am 
Offline
LOST Member
User avatar

Joined: Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am
Posts: 398
Happy New Decade everyone -- I'm back.

This has been a long silence period due to priorities and not great health. [English accent]'...I'm not dead yet; I'm feeling much better..."

Last weekend I picked up where I left off a couple months ago. The last issue was finding a partial o-ring that seemed to be part of an o-ring from the removable cylinder sleeve. So I removed all the sleeves and all the o-rings were good !! I had ordered a complete set so I removed all four sleeves and installed new o-rings on all cylinders.

With all the jugs out I cleaned the interior of the cooling jacket which came out nice. The jugs went in fine so I'm not suspecting any more block problems. After cleaning the cooling jacket I had to polish the rod journals on the crank. A 4' length of 320-grit emery cloth did the job fine. I couldn't find the correct cloth so super fine polishing cloth, but this had to do the job.

This weekend I checked the oil jets that spray up the piston skirts. Had quite a time figuring out how to measure the them. Turns out the ports in the underside of the pistons are 45-deg off the wrist pin and 14mm from the edge of the cylinder.
Image
The image looks like it's 1/2" but the camera angle skews it. It's really 9/16" which we all know equates to 14mm.

Setting up for this became easy. Folded a page of grocery store insert from the local rag and aligned with the machined edges of the block casting. Marked the 45-deg spot on the edge of the cylinder.
Image
This image looks like the paper is not correctly spanning the cylinder center-line, but it seems better in person.

Had a length of straight, rigid brass hobby tubing laying in the junk drawer that almost fit over the end of the jet. Had to work the brass tubing a little to make it fit over the end of the jet. Found all the jets were pointing in different directions.
Image
I'll have to make a wooden jig to ensure the oil is shooting correctly. I'll use the same 45-deg and 14mm dimensions.

Aligned each jet so the hobby tubing pointed to the correct location. The ports in the piston underside are 1/4" diameter so there's a little room for error.
Image

Measured each cylinder several times. Turned out I worked the tubing a little crooked so I had to work it some more until it fit true.
Image
Checked all cylinders again and made a few more adjustments using my fingers.

Next weekend I'll make the jig to fit the jug with a hole for the oil to shoot through when it's correct.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Tue Jan 21, 2020 10:57 am 
Offline
LOST Newbie

Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2017 4:05 pm
Posts: 68
Happy New Year Dean.

You are the Indiana Jones of CRDs.

Love reading your detailed journal of mechanical adventures!

Thanks again and all the best in 2020!

_________________
2006 Limited since factory new
HDS 001 with 203° Stant
MBRP Cat Back - Stainless
Fumoto F102
ARB bumper
Bilsteins
Michelin Defender LTX 235/70/R16


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2020 1:52 am 
Offline
LOST Member
User avatar

Joined: Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am
Posts: 398
Thanks snowballs. Always glad to get accolades.

Finally finished aiming and testing the oil jets for under the pistons. It wasn't hard and it was fun making accurate templates to test the aiming of the oil jets.

First I got to decipher where the jet was located in a round cylinder and 8" below the surface. As soon as I fashioned** a cardboard disc in the shape of the cylinder, the rest came easier. **Made the shape and size of the cylinder by tapping a small hammer on the cardboard atop the cylinder. Same deal as making a gasket. Actually had to cut 1/8" all around with scissors to make the cardboard disc fit into the cylinder.

Stapled one cardboard disc to a rectangle of cardboard that aligned to the edge of the block. Used the four places at the side of each cylinder to align the cardboard template. From those edges it's 95mm to the center-line of the cylinders.
Image
Tapped holes in the cardboard where the hollow locating pin is for the head to align properly.

Had to tap an extra pair of holes to allow this template to fit over the drift punch I have jammed into the oil port that delivers oil to the head. Closing that off stops oil from gushing out while the head is not installed.
Image
Made 3 more cardboard discs to cover the other cylinders to prevent the other jets from spraying oil all over the place.

First I had a small hole the same size as the one in the bottom of the piston. When I started squirting oil out I could not see where it was hitting when misaligned slightly. Used the same hollow locating pin to make a larger hole. This allowed me to see the misaligned jet stream and make adjustments.
Image
Used a 1/4" drive deep 4mm socket and extension to position over the jet and tweak the aim a little. The first method of using the rigid brass hobby tubing got me real close. I'm glad I spent the extra time to get this right.

Also, I noticed the oil jet stream is very full and strong. The stream of oil easily went 8' into the air. In my last attempt the jet was a stream of drops, but if I recall correctly, I was using a mix of oil and diesel.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2020 2:18 pm 
Offline
LOST Addict
User avatar

Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:36 pm
Posts: 5493
Location: Central GA
Wow! Talk about attention to detail and tenacity; you earn both awards. :shock: :pepper:
Great job, looking forward to the finished results. :POPCORN:

_________________
Supporting Vendor of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:

Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stg4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit/BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat
V6Airbox
GM11 bld. fan/NAPA HDclutch
IronrockArm/Cust.Mount
DodgeCummins,5"exh. Viair Air Comp.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2020 8:12 am 
Offline
LOST Newbie

Joined: Sat Feb 02, 2013 11:04 am
Posts: 86
I salute you CaptainDean.

_________________
Ludi Neethling
South Africa
2005 Jeep KJ CRD 2.8 (6 M/T)
Susp:Ironman Coils, Shocks new bushes and ball joints
Therm: Replaced
EGR: Cleaned, re-installed
CCV Catch Can
MAP sensor: Cleaned
Injectors: Repl
Alt pulley: Repl
Serp Belt: Repl
Crank Pos Sens: Replaced
T/B & W/P: Repl @ 200k Km
Repl Cer GP with Etechno 7V GP 212k Km
Repl CCV


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2020 7:40 pm 
Offline
LOST Member
User avatar

Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2018 5:53 pm
Posts: 139
Location: Central Iowa, USA
CaptainDean wrote:
Image

There she blows!
A spout like a geyser!
It's CaptainDean!

_________________
2005 KJ CRD ~145K
V6 Airbox, Samco Hoses, Provent
Weeks 1&2, Thrush Glasspack
Facet Fuel Pump, Secondary Fuel Filter
GDE Eco Tune Full Torque
OME 1.5", JBA A-Arms and Top Plates
245/75/16s, Spidertrax


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Sat Mar 07, 2020 4:38 pm 
Offline
LOST Member
User avatar

Joined: Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am
Posts: 398
Thanks for the kudos WWDiesel, Ludi Neething, iakj11,

It warms my heart to know I'm doing something right and being appreciated for it.

My next step is to install the pistons/rods/wrist pins but they don't feel right. There is no discernible slop when checking straight thrust between wrist pin and rod, but I can feel slop when rocking the pin in the rod bushing. Specifications say clearance should be 0.0002 - 0.0008, these have 0.0015 at the edges of the bushing. Sounds like the machinist finally screwed up.

Image

I've been looking around for a source of oversize wrist pins but so far no luck. Anyone have some suggestions?

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Sat Mar 07, 2020 5:20 pm 
Offline
LOST Member

Joined: Sat Oct 13, 2018 10:09 pm
Posts: 236
Location: Australia
Normally wrist pins/pistons are matched sets.Oversized wrist pins will require machining of holes in pistons. What are the surfaces of the pins like ? Unless you have grooves in them the should not be a problem. A straight edge along the pin will show if it is worn. It sounds like the bushes have been poorly reamed. Too much on the outer edges. If you place a straight edge through the bush can you see the bush surface is not flat? ~ high in the middle, low on the edges? That is what old bushes look like.

_________________
Australian KJ CRD 2006


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2020 3:45 am 
Offline
LOST Member
User avatar

Joined: Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am
Posts: 398
Thanks layback40,

I took the pistons out of the *other* CRD engine and cleaned them up. Even with new bushing installed and honed by the machinist, the *other* pistons & pins are in better shape although not good enough to install in a fresh engine. The machinist did a lousy job this time; it's like he used sandpaper on his finger to hone the bushings.

There is another machinist in town that typically does big stuff, heavy equipment machine work. He is recommended by the owner of a local repair shop when the first guy is too busy. Ordered a new set of bushings from IDParts and expect to have them early next week. Hopefully he can get them installed so I can begin again by March 28. Gonna take a week off work and get this buggy finished.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 588 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 26, 27, 28, 29, 30  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group. Color scheme by ColorizeIt!
Logo by pixeldecals.com