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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2021 2:42 pm 
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Location: northeastern New Mexico
I've been following this thread because I too am struggling to resolve clinking, clanking, as well as knocking, going up and down our rough driveway up here in the mountains of northern New Mexico. Between 2020 & 2021 I've replaced Rack & Pinion, Lower control arms from JeepenbyAL, ball joints, etc. It still rattles... :grim:

I have to add that the 2005 FSM is a good source of information, but unfortunately the writers or editors decided having page numbers listed at each section where it lists the steps for each procedure wasn't needed. The index is a massively abbreviated version of a real index that is mostly useless. I love trouble shooting, but this book stifles every train of thought I have. :banghead:
At this point I am at a stage where I need to go back to my past career as a consumer electronics serviceman. I have owned torque pro for years, but never really needed it to do any real work until now. My 2005 is running rich and leaking oil from passenger side and rear main seal area :dizzy: This is when I learned that the 05 has a mixed bag of network protocols. I was trying to look at the data coming from the MAF to see if it needed replacing.
Sorry to hijack this super helpful thread

_________________
Brian Rodgers
2005 CRD "Still going strong- out of retirement, like me"
Owned since May 2011- Jeepin by Al - Old Man Emu lift kit 948s rear - upper control arms


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Sat Nov 20, 2021 8:00 pm 
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Boss, thanks for following this thread. It's turned into a long and winding road. Sorry for taking so long to respond.

The final source of my 'clinking and clanking' noise was the looseness of the differentials. Play between pinion and ring gears was a 1/8" lateral slop in the third member of the differential, which related to excessive free-play on the driveshafts. You've already addressed that issue.
Image
Image

My next guess is the shock absorber rubber mounts. That is a no-brainer which you must have already addressed. Next is the bumpers for maximum shock travel in the front. Mine were missing allowing the chassis to bottom-out on the A-frames. Those allowed a loud clanking sound; when missing it doesn't look like anything is missing. New ones are cheap and merely press-in. See the dusty reddish rubber at the top of the fender well.
Image
This picture is pretty good. As an unlikely guess, check the tightness of the union from the bottom of the strut (orange) to the top of the yoke (yellow) to the lower A-frame.

Don't worry about hijacking this thread. Questions come along all the time. If I don't answer it, someone else might.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Sun Nov 28, 2021 1:02 am 
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Found a place to have my ECM repaired. A new one is $1100, a refurbished one on eBay is $340, and the repair is $250.

I have a great suspicion there is only a fuse blown inside the ECM so opened it up and I might be right. The problem is I cannot find a replacement for the surface mount fuse or resistor. Can anyone identify this chip? The print on the chip reads ED 4A and the logo looks like a cowboy hat and a wheel.
Image
I tried several time to rotate the image so it would post right-side up, but to no avail.
Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2022 9:31 pm 
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Hi everyone, I'm back...

Does anyone know the differences between ECU model numbers? I have a Bosch ECU P54044 562CA unit.

Does it matter that available ECUs have the suffix 562CB or other close variants?

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2022 10:48 pm 
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gmctd wrote:
...ECM and TCM revision level listing
______________________________________
2005 KJ 2.8L AUTO US ECM
56044562AF
56044562BA
56044562BB
56044562BC
56044562BD
56044562BE
56044562BF
56044562CA<--- (mine)
56044562CB |
56044562CC |
56044562CD | Alternatives ?
56044562CE |
56044562CF |
---------------------------------

Gmcdt,

Thank you for recording all this information about '05 and '06 ECM and TCM sticker & update information. (Taken from CRD TECH ONLY posts.

I'm attempting to better understand the list of '05 ECM part numbers (listed above). Are you saying that any of the '2005 KJ 2.8L AUTO US ECM' vehicles can use any of these ECMs?

The reason I'm asking is that my exact ECM part number is few and far between, and expensive. Can I install any of the ECMs listed -- maybe the ones after mine might have better revisions?

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2022 5:19 am 
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Been talking with Yeti on Facebook Messenger regarding options to fix the ECM with a P2294 "Fuel Regulator circuit open" fault code. Early in the "DIY ECU Flash" thread there is a list of numbers that are associated with the 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD. (See the previous post below). Yeti can clone one ECM (donor) to another one. This is in hopes the donor ECM firmware is good, and the recipient ECM is fully functional, and thus a problem gets solved.

The numbers I listed in the last post (below) relate to the firmware burned into the ECM. However, the donor and recipient need to be the same or compatible computer. Here is a list of Bosch ECM part numbers that are compatible, at least for the 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD. The one in blue is mine. Certainly there is another list for the 2006.

[Edit] I had the number screwed up. They're correct now. :oops:
Bosch 0 281 011 473, Bosch 0 281 011 475, Bosch 0 281 011 476, Bosch 0 281 011 585.
Bosch 0 281 012 593, Bosch 0 281 012 594, Bosch 0 281 012 595.
Bosch 0 281 013 649, Bosch 0 281 013 650.

Other options are: 1) to ship your ECM to a repair shop and have it repaired. 2) buy a compatible used ECM. 3) buy a replacement new ECM.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2022 8:02 am 
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Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2022 3:52 am
Posts: 7
Location: Krakow, PL
This post is lika a treasure chest of information.
Just want o make sure of one thing. Dean I have a similar issues with a strange rattle. Exactly the same as described here:

Quote:
It rattles at idle in neutral, it rattles in drive at idle at a stop and creeping forward & reverse, it rattles in 4WD in all the same conditions. Soon as I add a couple hundred RPM the rattles stop. Same at a stop in drive pressing the brake.


What helped with this one, changing motor mounts only?
Best!


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Sat Feb 26, 2022 1:43 am 
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Herbaciarz,

Thanks for noticing this post. The final fix for the clinking and clanking was setting up the front and rear differentials. They were both VERY loose. Both driveshafts had about 5/16" of free-play. The third member in the differential was slopping around about 1/16" side to side. After the rear adjustment, the free-play was heard but not felt, or felt but not heard. I forget now.
Image
Image

The cause of it was excessive idling in gear that slowly widened the free-play. Diesel engines have a lot of torque from each cylinder-detonation that rips through the drive train. The automatic transmission doesn't have a flywheel like a manual transmission, so the roughness of the engine is not smoothed -- it's as though the crankshaft is square. This is the Flexplate for the automatic transmission. It's made from about 10 gauge steel, not 3/4" thick cast iron like a flywheel. I would like to see this plate made from 2x or 3x thick steel to provide some real flywheel action.
Image

The rear differential was pretty easy because it's adjustable with inside-the-axle nuts to set up the placement of the ring gear to pinion gear. To gain access to the adjustments, you only have to remove the rear wheels, brakes & axles. I set it to 0.005" play but I later learned from a machinist it should be 0.002" for a used set of gears.
Image

I had to make a huge hex driver out of a 1/2" drive socket and a huge nut to turn the 36mm (or larger) hex-drive nut inside the axle. Here it's only epoxied together but it worked. There is not any real torque needed for this adjustment. (Adjusting the pinion gear lash is a different story)
Image
Image

The front differential is adjusted with spacers -- I haven't actually done the front yet, but I did remove the front driveshaft. To gain access to the front differential adjustments, you have to remove the front wheels, brakes, take out the top ball joints, remove the bottom of the strut (the yellow part), and then remove the half shafts.
Image

These things quieted the vehicle down real nicely. It's a nice car to drive now -- however it's not quite back on the road yet. Just sent out the Engine Control Module for repair. I suspect I'll get it back by mid March.

You have a lot of work ahead of you, and the justification to buy a lot of new tools. Good luck whether you do it yourself of take it to a shop.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2022 11:11 am 
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Posts: 7
Location: Krakow, PL
Thanks Dean!
First I will look at these motor mounts. If it won't do the trick then things you posted.
Here's audio recording of noise/rattle that I have (if anyone's interested).
It's recorded like this: first Drive + Break -> Park without Break and once again.
Best!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/sodagvyydltw5 ... e.mp3?dl=0


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2022 12:47 pm 
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Herbaciarz wrote:
Here's audio recording of noise/rattle that I have. It's recorded like this: first Drive + Brake -> Park without Brake and once again.
Best!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/sodagvyydltw5 ... e.mp3?dl=0

Thanks Herbaciarz,

This is music to my ears; I haven't heard my engine run for ages. I'm longing to hear it again after my ECM comes back from the repair shop.

You may be right about the motor mounts. Mine were bad too and they made the same low clunk and rattle noises as on your recording. My sloppy-loose differential noises were more high-pitched clinking and clattering of metal gears.

In my studies, I came across people putting windshield sealant inside their motor mounts to stiffen them up. This might be an experiment for your old mounts instead of attempting on new mounts. You'd need to set them aside for a week or more to let them cure before installing them.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Tue Mar 15, 2022 3:14 am 
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CaptainDean wrote:
...ECM and TCM revision level listing
______________________________________
2005 KJ 2.8L AUTO US ECM
56044562AF
56044562BA
56044562BB
56044562BC
56044562BD
56044562BE
56044562BF
56044562CA<--- (mine)
56044562CB |
56044562CC |
56044562CD | Alternatives ? <---- YES !! These are compatible alternatives !
56044562CE |
56044562CF |
---------------------------------

Turns out my curiosity above was right on. We can replace our Engine Control Modules with a part number that has a different suffix (last 2 letters). The alternative part numbers above are all interchangeable.

Here is a tidbit from MAKS ECM Rebuilders website.
https://ecmrebuilders.com/product/rebui ... 8l-engine/

    Part Number Notes:
    The last two alpha characters in ECM Part Numbers refer to the firmware revision. We will ship you the latest revision which is backward-compatible with all prior revisions.
    The presence or absence of a leading zero as the first character in the part number is not significant. It may appear on your old ECM with or without a leading zero.
    Your old ECM may show a “P”, or “P/N” in front of the part number. This is merely a field heading on the sticker that means “Part Number” and is not significant.


_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Wed Mar 16, 2022 12:53 am 
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Found an ECM Repair company called ModuleExperts.com and took a chance on letting them repair my ECM.

Had a bad feeling going in that ModuleExperts.com would be a bad experience. Turned out to be true.

Their website reads, "...Pay us [up front] with CC and send in your Engine Control Module for repair. Flat rate $250..."

I wasn't about to pay in advance, but, I sent in the module first and awaited their response. They said "...your ECM is beyond repair. We can sell you an re-manufactured unit for an additional $960.

I told them to return my ECM without making any repairs. They responded in all caps (yelling) "JUST TOLD YOU IT IS NOT REPAIRABLE, SO HOW EXACTLY ARE WE TO "NOT MAKE ANY REPAIRS?" DID YOU NOT READ ANYTHING THAT WAS JUST EXPLAINED TO YOU?"

So I responded again, "Please send my ECM back to me."

They responded "WHY".

I said, "I don't want ModuleExperts.com to have a free module. I'll have someone else repair it. I understand it will cost me $25 return shipping."

Nothing in response.

Meanwhile, I found another ECM company that offers the same ECM for $350 outright.
https://ecmrebuilders.com/product-categ ... jeep-2005/

So I purchased an ECM supposedly programmed specifically for my VIN. See what happens in the next few days or week.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2022 8:00 am 
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Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2021 11:26 am
Posts: 8
Location: Indiana
I had a similar experience when trying to fix the ECM in one of my LJ's.... :furious:


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2022 11:27 pm 
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THREED wrote:
I had a similar experience when trying to fix the ECM in one of my LJ's.... :furious:

Apparently this business is filled with crooks.

The first company (ModuleExperts.com) has made another mistake, and probably a deliberate one. They charge $250 + tax for a module test and repair. $72 testing fee, $153 repair fee, $25 return postage/freight fee -- sounds good enough. With mine, they said it was beyond repair so I asked them to return it. They refunded only the testing fee ($72) instead of the repair fee ($153). They still owe me $81.

I've called and they don't answer. I've emailed and they don't reply. This is the crappy part of living isolated; I can't go there and pound on the counter!

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2022 1:10 am 
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CaptainDean wrote:
Apparently this ECM repair business is filled with crooks.

The first company (ModuleExperts.com) has made another mistake, and probably a deliberate one. They charge $250 + tax for a module test and repair. $72 testing fee, $153 repair fee, $25 return postage/freight fee -- sounds good enough. With mine, they said it was beyond repair so I asked them to return it. They refunded only the testing fee ($72) instead of the repair fee ($153). They still owe me $81.

I've called and they don't answer. I've emailed and they don't reply. This is the crappy part of being isolated in Hawaii; I can't go there and pound on the counter!

Dean.

On the other hand, the second company (EcmRebuilders.com) is sounding completely honest and striving for excellence. My last conversation with them, they said the new ECM will ship with the most recent version of software. If I recall correctly, it is version CK suffix. Check the list below...

2005 KJ 2.8L AUTO US ECM
56044562AF
56044562BA
56044562BB
56044562BC
56044562BD
56044562BE
56044562BF
56044562CA<--- (mine)
56044562CB |
56044562CC |
56044562CD | Alternatives ? <---- YES !! These are compatible alternatives !
56044562CE |
56044562CF |
56044562CG | <--
56044562CH | <--
56044562CI .| <-- NEWER REVISIONS !
56044562CJ | <--
56044562CK | <--

The next day they called me to say the module will ship out soon and they have deleted the EGR code at my request.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2022 2:06 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 13, 2018 10:09 pm
Posts: 541
Location: Australia
CaptainDean wrote:
THREED wrote:
I had a similar experience when trying to fix the ECM in one of my LJ's.... :furious:

Apparently this business is filled with crooks.

The first company (ModuleExperts.com) has made another mistake, and probably a deliberate one. They charge $250 + tax for a module test and repair. $72 testing fee, $153 repair fee, $25 return postage/freight fee -- sounds good enough. With mine, they said it was beyond repair so I asked them to return it. They refunded only the testing fee ($72) instead of the repair fee ($153). They still owe me $81.

I've called and they don't answer. I've emailed and they don't reply. This is the crappy part of living isolated; I can't go there and pound on the counter!

Dean.

You could always bounce your CC payment.

_________________
Australian KJ CRD 2006


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2022 10:50 pm 
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layback40 wrote:
You could always bounce your CC payment.

Thanks layback40 !!

[Edit] Started a Dispute on that transaction.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2022 7:23 pm 
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CaptainDean wrote:
layback40 wrote:
You could always bounce your CC payment.

Thanks layback40 !!

[Edit] Started a Dispute on that transaction.

Got a resolution to the credit card charge dispute. I expected to get back an additional $42 but they actually refunded $106. Thanks Layback40! That was worthwhile.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


Top
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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2022 8:10 pm 
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CaptainDean wrote:
On the other hand, the second company (EcmRebuilders.com) is sounding completely honest and striving for excellence. My last conversation with them, they said the new ECM will ship with the most recent version of software. If I recall correctly, it is version CK suffix. Check the list below...

2005 KJ 2.8L AUTO US ECM
56044562AF
56044562BA
56044562BB
56044562BC
56044562BD
56044562BE
56044562BF
56044562CA<--- (mine)
56044562CB |
56044562CC |
56044562CD | Alternatives ? <---- YES !! These are compatible alternatives !
56044562CE |
56044562CF |
56044562CG | <--
56044562CH | <--
56044562CI .| <-- NEWER REVISIONS !
56044562CJ | <--
56044562CK | <--

The next day they called me to say the module will ship out soon and they have deleted the EGR code at my request.

Dean.

Turned out that EcmRebuilders.com was not able to delete the EGR code. They said it must to be connected to the vehicle to accomplish that. That is fine because I can do that myself with the help of this forum. Thanks everyone.
The new ECM arrived in the middle of last week and I finally installed it Friday. Still, the engine will not start. :furious: Read the codes and it responded with the same ones as the old ECM. This is making me think that my first impression of EcmExperts.com is correct: crooks. :twisted: I think they will do anything to get a [good] ECM for free and sell me a rebuilt one at their high price.

So, anyway, with the same project back in my lap, I am continuing with troubleshooting on the vehicle. Suddenly I'm pining for the old'n days where the diesel fuel regulator was not needed -- the mechanical injectors got what the mechanical pump put out and that's the end of the story. Today however, the fuel regulation and control is a compilation of 6 sensors fed into a computer. These six are: Fuel Quantity Solenoid, Fuel Pressure Solenoid, Fuel Pressure Sensor, Fuel Temperature Sensor, Ambient Temperature Sensor, and Mass Air Flow Sensor. Of course also included in the fuel delivery system is the fuel pump and the injectors.

So, I'm going to dive back into the beast by checking these sensors with an Ohm meter.

Here is a good video on YouTube University that explains the parts of the fueling system on the 2.8L diesel engine.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AvC0ytEsQ6w

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2022 2:12 am 
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Posts: 7157
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Don't forget the crank and cam sensors that play into the mix, if the ECM does not get the proper signals from them, the fuel system will never come into play. :wink:

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05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount

98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve


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