I just got some new Frankenlift strut assembly from Quinn to replace my OME and home made spacer set up.

I now have 37.75" at the fender flares running 245/75/16s or 23.5" from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the flare. I know it takes some time for them to break in and settle. I have put about 50 hard miles on it and it hasn't budgeted at all. It is almost resting on the lower bump stops.

Just curious from anyone's experience how long did it take the Frankenlift to come down to a reasonable height.

Is the Clevis bottomed out on the strut?

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99 TJ
71 C101
04 KJ
03 SFA KJ Sport
LOST JEEPS So-Cal

"37.75"" My Gosh !!

Are you going to put taller tires too?

Mine is still taller in front, but It is not that high...

Like JJ asked, is the Clevis all the way up? I do not think you should be that low that you are almost fully drooped at rest! (I think that is what you meant by "It is almost resting on the lower bump stops")

Mine made a lot of noise and the swaybar seemed to attatch weird(the links were not straight and my bushings were being forced at an angle) but after a good run up slaughter house gulch, mine is quiet and the sway bar has adjusted itself nicely. As for settling, it has not yet, still 36.5" to flare using the 245 MTRs.

Same height as Skyjumps(when parked right next to each other at least the front is anyway) and his has had the franken lift front on for a while.

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I'm baaaaccckkk...
LOST Member 10
If you can read this you don't need glasses, go Wheel your Jeep!

Yup the clevis is pushed all the way up to the bump stops on the strut (those little notches on the side). I'm going to give it a day or two to see if it will come down a bit. If not I might have to swap it out before one of the CV goes. I'll give Quinn a call on Monday if nothing changes.

Ted is right it is essentially at full drop. Maybe just another 1/2" and it would be fully drooped. The CVs are at a pretty extreme angle and they don't look too happy. Also on the drive side the spring bows out a tad bit and contacts the upper-arm from time to time.

You're in the same situation I was with the Skyjacker kit. JUST REMOVE IT NOW. There's no way you should be that high and giving it a few days won't drop it an inch and a half. Mine has settled MAYBE .25 inch. First place I'd look is that lower spacer...only 1.5" or is it 2.5??? In your case you may be able to remove the spacer entirely and be right on.

Thanks Joel. I'm pretty sure it is the 1.5" Spacer. I am really tempted to remove it right now since it is a sunday.

Anyway here are some pictues I though I might share. It is not jacked up at all and I have given it a good 50-60 miles to settle and this is still how high it is.








Any ideas on what went wrong?

No idea what went wrong - maybe the spring rates are off??? I'd remove the spacer. You're exactly 1.5" too high compared to other Frankenlifts.

How high are you in the back?

Edit: That is the 1.5" spacer, btw.

I have the OME 927 springs in the front. Just checked the parts tag. I would take out the spacer, but I need a spring compressor and a new rubber spring isolater. I have a complete OME medium duty strut assembled with some homemade spacer that I will probably just swap back in for now.

The back is at about 35.25"

I guess the spring rate could be off, but it dosen't really ride any firmer. If anything it ride a little smoother. I counted the number of turns and it is about 10.5 which is right about when the OME spec calls for IIRC.

One thing I do notice is the springs contact the upper a-arms. Not at the upper-ball joint but off to the sides.

Take a look at his pic. He's not measuring from wheel center like he should....or said.

23.5" from the center of the wheel.

I have a theory...

I can not tell by the pic, how is your toe out on your alignment? Your sway bar links look like mine did, and your lower arms look pushed out. Could your knuckle be tilted in so much at the top that it is causing your tire to ride on the edge and forcing the cv at a bad angle, and the upper arm to come in like that?

Could this cause the hieght?

I have the same OME 927 springs, when I first dropped mine down on its own weight, mine looked similar, not as bad, but similar with the swaybar links askew, bad cv angles, and my knuckle was tilted (not as bad as above, I think because I installed Jeepin' By Al's armsat the same time).

While on the lift, I did a tape measure alignment lifted it up and dropped her back down, and she looked better.

Am I way off, or could this be a part of the problem?

Also, it looks like your brake lines are stretched in the pic. You may need to lift them up so they are level with the clevis/strut bolt. It looks like they are hooked under the clevis bolt.

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I'm baaaaccckkk...
LOST Member 10
If you can read this you don't need glasses, go Wheel your Jeep!

Not sure if that is it Ted. I did a quick toe-in adjustment (god I needed too) and it didn't do a thing.

I guess I've kind of resolved myself to take it off and see what is wrong because it definetly should not be like that. Unless I did something wrong, which I do not thing so. Looks like I'll be busy later.

I am sorry Eddo, I did not mean toe (wheels in or out at front of vehicle adjusted by tie rod end links) I meant your camber or caster.
Look at your knuckle, In the picture it appears that your knucle is kicked way out on the bottom thus the top is in toward the spring pinching the upper ball joint. Of course this could be the pic too... The reason I suggested it was that looking at your cv axle shaft it looks like it is coming out of the hub bearing/knuckle in a downward angle vs straight out toward the center of the kj. Also looking at the top of the lower ball joint, it appears to be trying to kick the lower arm out away from center. I will try to do a pic analasys and post it for you in a few minutes.

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I'm baaaaccckkk...
LOST Member 10
If you can read this you don't need glasses, go Wheel your Jeep!

I think I see what you are saying. However I'm not sure if alignment would make a difference.

I believe the knuckle is tilted because of the extreme droop. The upper control arm is shorter thus it will pull the knuckle in more than the lower control arm.

I believe suspensions are designed with un-equal length a-arms. Under ideal conditions both a-arms would be level and your caster would be set pretty close to 0 degress. However, once you either drop or compress the wheel you have a negative camber situations because the upper arm makes a shorter radius. And I guess a negative camber give you more control and stability. So when cornering or braking hard you get a negative camber which increases stability.

That makes sense eddo... but I will post this just because this was kinda hard to do with my gimp left hand

Here is yours, I added a yellow line that shows how yours is as far as tilt:


And mine, same OME springs frankenlift. Different wheels and tires (backspacing) and I have the Arms by Al. I tried to take the pic and get the same view, I think I got close but not perfect:


You can see how the new arms push the top out. I do not know if mine would have turned out the same with factory arms or not. These are the heavy duty springs, and I think Quinn asked me to be sure I wanted the heavy duty vs medium springs when I ordered. I plan on building bumpers front and rear so I went heavy. It was a B__ch to get the clivis back on the lower arm on the driverside, the passenger side for some reason went easier.

Like I said, what you said earlier about the arm length and droop causing the cant of the knucle, at least it makes sense. But I am just showing the difference due to the fact I was able to do it (computers and I do not get a long often) and maybe a small Plug for Jeepin'By Al's serviceable and slightly longer upper control arms. As I said, I do not know if mine would have been the same with factory arms, and I do not know if sitting on the lower corner of your tire would cause a change in hieght that dramatic.
I have 35.5" to bottom of flare through center of wheel on 245/75 MTRs at 40 PSI with about 35% tread. And I have the same front set up as you do except for the upper arms.

Sorry if this doesn't help Eddo, but we are trying! We're with ya man!

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I'm baaaaccckkk...
LOST Member 10
If you can read this you don't need glasses, go Wheel your Jeep!

I just installed my Frankelift this weekend. I am also concerned with my CV angles as they seem too steep. I also had a lot of difficulty attaching the sway bar link (the bolts in the bushing are at an angle).

In the front, I measure 35.75" to the fender flares with 225/70/16's (34" in the back).

Please give me your educated opinions. Do I have a problem?

Here is a picture of the driver's side.

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2003 Liberty Sport V6 Automatic
Frankenlift, Rubi's, & MTR's
Flowmaster 50 Series
K&N Drop-in
Lightforce 170's

De boy, if you haven't yet, get an alignment.

Then go wheeling!!!

Mine looked about the same before going wheeling. what I did was to smear greas around the swaybar at the frame mount bushings on both sides trying to push it into the gap of the bar and bushing on both sides (inner and outer edges of each bracket)
Then while wheeling, the bar adjusted on its own. You need to do some good twisting while wheeling.

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I'm baaaaccckkk...
LOST Member 10
If you can read this you don't need glasses, go Wheel your Jeep!

USAFCOP,

No, I have not yet done any alignment work. I have driven 25 highway miles and a couple miles mild off-road.

Help me understand how I am different than Eddo. Doesn't my CV angle look similar to his? Mine also nearly rests on the strut bump stop.

Thanks,
Deboy

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2003 Liberty Sport V6 Automatic
Frankenlift, Rubi's, & MTR's
Flowmaster 50 Series
K&N Drop-in
Lightforce 170's

You know Deboy, I'm starting to wonder if OME recently changed their springs. I just got me Frankenlift set-up just this week from Quinn. It was on back order. If that is the case then that would explain why both of us have the same problem. My rear OME spring I've had in there for quite some time now.

It already started to tear the rubber around the upper ball joint. It was resting on the bump stops so much that it actually pushed the lower bump stop away and start grinding on the upper ball joint. I think i fixed the small tear with a tad bit of silicone though.

From my opinion you are in the same boat at me. With your tires only measure 28.4" OD and mine measuring 30.6" that adds an extra inch to your measurement when compared to mine. So you are close to 37" if you had 245/75/16s

I've uninstalled my Frankenlift. I'm going to give Quinn a call tomorrow morning and see what is up. Something is definetly not right.