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PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 1:21 pm 
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Tokyojoe wrote:
All weight going down on the front diff while pulling from front. Not sure if that has anything to do with it. Wondering about that DTT and proper install also. Another possibility since we don't know...... Did you buy the 2005 CRD new or used? If used, it could have had a hairline crack (undetectable possibly) prior to you buying.



Bought it used in Sept. And you might be right. Who knows. But I'm with Trailman on this! I'm almost affraid to take this thing off pavement now!!!!! And what's the use of having a 4wd Jeep when it never sees dirt??? There has been a freaking TSB at Chrysler about this going on 5yrs now. Which basically says they admit there is a problem. Where can I get the fabled diff collar from anyways???

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 1:48 pm 
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2mopar_diesels, if you want a higher-end quality off-road Jeep, then I suggest buying a Wrangler, XJ Cherokee, or SFA your KJ. The KJ is a pretty neat Jeep and fairly trail worthy, however it also has a few restrictions. IFS and the front diff are two of those restrictions. I love my KJ and I plan on keeping it for the long haul, but I will never use it for anything very serious. With a lift, winch, 4:10’s, and lockers, the KJ will get me into the backcountry, down a few muddy or snow packed forest roads, and through some beat up logging roads. Those front diffs are fairly reliable but far from guaranteed. Bottom line, that front diff can’t handle a lot of stress

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 3:01 pm 
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The CRD makes a ton of low end torque, I damaged my transfer case while in 4LOreversing up the wall of a gravel pit for a good photo op. :D
Those 3.7 guys just don't understand :lol:

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 4:11 pm 
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wow that sucks. I didn't know you are not suppose to pull anything backwards I do it all the time. I pulled a little car out up a 4 ft ditch with almost 3 ft of water in 4LOW reverse with no problem at all. Wonder if it has anything to with being a CRD?

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 4:12 pm 
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dieselenthusiast wrote:
2mopar_diesels, if you want a higher-end quality off-road Jeep, then I suggest buying a Wrangler, XJ Cherokee, or SFA your KJ. The KJ is a pretty neat Jeep and fairly trail worthy, however it also has a few restrictions. IFS and the front diff are two of those restrictions. I love my KJ and I plan on keeping it for the long haul, but I will never use it for anything very serious. With a lift, winch, 4:10’s, and lockers, the KJ will get me into the backcountry, down a few muddy or snow packed forest roads, and through some beat up logging roads. Those front diffs are fairly reliable but far from guaranteed. Bottom line, that front diff can’t handle a lot of stress


X2

Youre not alone. I grenaded to front diffs in my Tracker before going SFA. Trackers have oem steel diff housings and aftermarket steel housings that can be swapped in. Maybe its possible for the Liberty. 2003-2005 Lincoln aviator uses the same R&P gear ratio. don't know how strong the case is.

So there is no confusion IMO If a stronger diffhousing ( steel) with the same R&P ratio can be put in (fab work reqiured) that will increase the amount of torque the front can handle.

Link to Randys R&P

http://tinyurl.com/ckx8kg

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Last edited by trac95ker on Sun Feb 15, 2009 4:49 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 4:17 pm 
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Link to a bone yard in your neck of the woods that has one. Looks like they are going for 500-1000

http://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 4:53 pm 
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I have 32" tires and have wheeled from the deserts of SE UT to the swamps of SE FL and I've never broke a front diff. You just have to be smart about how you use the skinny pedal. The same stuff that will grenade an aluminum housing will also do in a steel housing. Just because a diff is aluminum does not make it defective.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 5:59 pm 
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ThunderbirdJunkie wrote:
Wow.

I've dragged lots of things driving backwards in the KJ without issue...


Weird, I pulled out a big rig and a pick up (at the same time!) in reverse....

Sorry to hear about your trouble...guess you won't find many CRD diff's on a junkyard over there.

TJKJ ones told me that the KJ's gears are not 4.10 front and rear, more like 4.9 front, 4.10 rear. So backing up on blacktop or anything less then loose gravel in 4LO will get you into trouble. I think that's what happened to yours, to much traction....then you get binding between front and rear..kaboom...

Diff collar won't do you any good either, that has been proven in other threads, it will split anyway. And it won't fit on a CRD.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:13 pm 
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Oh well, guess I just have to relearn how to drive as though the darn thing is made from egg shells and glass and hope it lasts until warranty runs out. Then the SFA will be on order!!!! Was gonna wait till it was payed off, but this incident really taught me something very invaluable. By the way, does anyone know how much this work will run if for some reason warranty work is denied???

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:40 pm 
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2mopar_diesels wrote:
Oh well, guess I just have to relearn how to drive as though the darn thing is made from egg shells and glass and hope it lasts until warranty runs out. Then the SFA will be on order!!!!


Either contact Rock Lizard to find out when his SFA kit will be available or start collecting parts to build your own. I’m trying to hurry up and get mine paid off so I can start my Wrangler Project.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 7:27 pm 
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the other point of replacing the aluminum housing with steel is, you transfer the weak link from an expensive R&P and housing which cost a lot of money and is a real pain to change in the dirt to hopefully a cv shaft. they are cheaper and much easier to replace in the dirt.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 8:30 pm 
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trac95ker wrote:
dieselenthusiast wrote:
2mopar_diesels, if you want a higher-end quality off-road Jeep, then I suggest buying a Wrangler, XJ Cherokee, or SFA your KJ. The KJ is a pretty neat Jeep and fairly trail worthy, however it also has a few restrictions. IFS and the front diff are two of those restrictions. I love my KJ and I plan on keeping it for the long haul, but I will never use it for anything very serious. With a lift, winch, 4:10’s, and lockers, the KJ will get me into the backcountry, down a few muddy or snow packed forest roads, and through some beat up logging roads. Those front diffs are fairly reliable but far from guaranteed. Bottom line, that front diff can’t handle a lot of stress


X2

Youre not alone. I grenaded to front diffs in my Tracker before going SFA. Trackers have oem steel diff housings and aftermarket steel housings that can be swapped in. Maybe its possible for the Liberty. 2003-2005 Lincoln aviator uses the same R&P gear ratio. don't know how strong the case is.

So there is no confusion IMO If a stronger diffhousing ( steel) with the same R&P ratio can be put in (fab work reqiured) that will increase the amount of torque the front can handle.

Link to Randys R&P

http://tinyurl.com/ckx8kg


No idea what the link is for. That listing is for a D30. Everyone ( well, I thought everyone) knows that the Liberty does not have a D30, but a D30A. The gears do not interchange. Even if the KJ is listed amongst the others, the listing is wrong and that has been much discussed & proven. ???

Trackers diffs must be pure crap if they are steel OEM & still grenade under the "mighty" power output of that Suzuki motor. :roll: Then again, suzuki cars are not really noted for quality, longevity, or reliability.

Really? A stronger diff would increase the amount of torque the diff could handle? No kidding! Please show where this has been done, short of a SFA, and for how much $$$. I for one would love to see it. I have had such a swap kit on the "beg" list for years on here.

To the OP, I am curious as to whether the diff damage will be covered with an aftermarket diff. For a new purchase with a Chryco warranty, I'd bet $$$ that you are on your own. For a used purchase with a who-knows-what warranty, I'd like to see how this goes.

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Last edited by InCommando on Sun Feb 15, 2009 8:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 8:40 pm 
OK, I'm gonna clear this up now.

I do not understand why people keep breaking these things.
I have broken front drivetrain parts in other rigs...and I'm not THAT easy on the KJ. Granted, easier on it than any of my other 4x4s since it's harder to find $10 CV axles in a junkyard, but you get my point.

Broken Warn premium hubs and Aisin manual hubs in 3 other rigs, blew up some halfshafts, U-joints, yadda yadda yadda

People blow doo doo up all the time in JKs, TJs, YJs, CJs, Xterras, 4runners, FJs, whathaveyou.

Granted, do I wheel my KJ easier because of all the front diff horror stories than I would had there never been one? Absolutely. Does that mean that I am not just as likely to blow up the front diff in an Xterra?

If you want the answer, go visit an Xterra forum. Quite enlightening :lol:


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 8:46 pm 
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Good point, TBJ: I don't know of any IFS 4x4's without these issues. SFA swaps under Toy's are extremely popular due to this, and they made much less power for the vast majority of their build life than the KJ did while weighing less. Xterra/Frontier guys are the biggest market right now for FSJ's guys getting rid of their D44's to move up to a stronger axle than a D44. They are ditching their IFS.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 8:51 pm 
I never thought of it, but I suppose the FSJ has the right bolt pattern...


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 9:35 pm 
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InCommando wrote:
trac95ker wrote:
dieselenthusiast wrote:
2mopar_diesels, if you want a higher-end quality off-road Jeep, then I suggest buying a Wrangler, XJ Cherokee, or SFA your KJ. The KJ is a pretty neat Jeep and fairly trail worthy, however it also has a few restrictions. IFS and the front diff are two of those restrictions. I love my KJ and I plan on keeping it for the long haul, but I will never use it for anything very serious. With a lift, winch, 4:10’s, and lockers, the KJ will get me into the backcountry, down a few muddy or snow packed forest roads, and through some beat up logging roads. Those front diffs are fairly reliable but far from guaranteed. Bottom line, that front diff can’t handle a lot of stress


X2

Youre not alone. I grenaded to front diffs in my Tracker before going SFA. Trackers have oem steel diff housings and aftermarket steel housings that can be swapped in. Maybe its possible for the Liberty. 2003-2005 Lincoln aviator uses the same R&P gear ratio. don't know how strong the case is.

So there is no confusion IMO If a stronger diffhousing ( steel) with the same R&P ratio can be put in (fab work reqiured) that will increase the amount of torque the front can handle.

Mike Hagen
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This is like the 5th or 6th Tracker this guy built. Before you go saying suzukis are crap do some research. Are you running the same size tires that are on the suzukis? No

I think he put achevy truck IFS under one of the earlier Trackers. I'll keep looking.


http://www.rpm4x4.com/specs-mike.shtml

Link to Randys R&P

http://tinyurl.com/ckx8kg


No idea what the link is for. That listing is for a D30. Everyone ( well, I thought everyone) knows that the Liberty does not have a D30, but a D30A. The gears do not interchange. Even if the KJ is listed amongst the others, the listing is wrong and that has been much discussed & proven. ???

Trackers diffs must be pure crap if they are steel OEM & still grenade under the "mighty" power output of that Suzuki motor. :roll: Then again, suzuki cars are not really noted for quality, longevity, or reliability.

Really? A stronger diff would increase the amount of torque the diff could handle? No kidding! Please show where this has been done, short of a SFA, and for how much $$$. I for one would love to see it. I have had such a swap kit on the "beg" list for years on here.

To the OP, I am curious as to whether the diff damage will be covered with an aftermarket diff. For a new purchase with a Chryco warranty, I'd bet $$$ that you are on your own. For a used purchase with a who-knows-what warranty, I'd like to see how this goes.


The reason for the link is to show A Navigator and a Liberty have the same gear ratio. Where in my post does it mention switching R&P? If you reread it says: 2003-2005 Lincoln aviator uses the same R&P gear ratio. don't know how strong the case is.
Take the Lincoln diff case and gears and put the whole unit in the liberty. Throw out the weak liberty housing that contains the gears and replace it with the Navigator. I thought I spelled it out. I can't make it any simpler.

Then I add :

So there is no confusion IMO If a stronger diffhousing ( steel) with the same R&P ratio can be put in (fab work reqiured) that will increase the amount of torque the front can handle.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 10:19 pm 
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Please find out some hard facts about the Aviator diff. & how the "fab work required" is done.

EDIT: ( I have got to remember to qoute you on everything to avoid how you go back & edit your stuff later when you get called on it.)

So now that you added it, do Navigators have a D30A??? If not, they really are just another IFS diff., yes? And if they do not mount the same, the are no closer to a KJ than any other IFS front?

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 11:56 pm 
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 16, 2009 12:02 am 
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EDIT: ( I have got to remember to qoute you on everything to avoid how you go back & edit your stuff later when you get called on it.)



I thought I turned that off so people can't do that. hmmmm

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 16, 2009 12:47 am 
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Can we please get this back on topic!!! I really don't like the fact my thread was hijacked!!! My last question was never answered do to you yahoo's arguing like a bunch of schoolgirls. I really need info from those who this happened to about costs. Thanks.

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