Wheel chirp!?

Diggerfreek · **Posted:** Wed May 05, 2010 5:57 pm

In the case of the KK, it is a non serviceable joint. If you loose a u joint, you are gonna be buying a drive shaft....

yodejt02 · **Posted:** Wed May 05, 2010 6:00 pm

Ouch!! glad mine still have metal retaining pins

I figure it is a place to start since they seem relatively easy to replace. Should I opt for greasable ones or non-greasable. Sorry this is new ground for me I know just enough to get me into trouble! I have done work on PTO shafts which are more or less a drive shaft out the back of a tractor to a piece of farm machinery so I figure the Ujoint work on the Jeep can't be that much different

And yes I did grow-up on Green Acres

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed May 05, 2010 6:04 pm

greaseable ones for sure!. Then each time you change oil / off road throw some grease in them

KJWildman · **Posted:** Wed May 05, 2010 6:05 pm

tommudd wrote:

Drive for two miles and the joint would burn your fingers!
Wait no now going back a few years I mean the joint burnt my fingers

Tellin' on yourself Tom! :lol:

(I never burn my fingers)

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed May 05, 2010 6:06 pm

[quote="Diggerfreek"]In the case of the KK, it is a non serviceable joint. If you loose a u joint, you are gonna be buying a drive shaft....

:shock:

That looks expensive, why would they do that, its stupid !

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed May 05, 2010 6:06 pm

KJWildman wrote:

tommudd wrote:

Drive for two miles and the joint would burn your fingers!
Wait no now going back a few years I mean the joint burnt my fingers

Tellin' on yourself Tom! :lol:

(I never burn my fingers)

Oh using a clip are ya?

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Wed May 05, 2010 6:07 pm

perhaps they could be machined to use clip ujoints

KJWildman · **Posted:** Wed May 05, 2010 6:09 pm

no comment :roll:

Diggerfreek · **Posted:** Wed May 05, 2010 7:00 pm

JeepinJarhead03 wrote:

perhaps they could be machined to use clip ujoints

There is hardly enough metal........

RED_KJ_666 · **Posted:** Wed May 05, 2010 9:21 pm

one of my buddies had the same Chirp sound.... Turned out to be the A/C pump going out. It only did it in the morning or after cooling down all the way.

TAHOE · **Posted:** Thu May 06, 2010 8:26 am

tommudd wrote:

Mine had a fine powder in them when I swapped them out and almost rusted solid. Drive for two miles and the joint would burn your fingers!
Wait no now going back a few years I mean the joint burnt my fingers err U-joint did

I replaced a set in my sister S10 blazer ( used to be ours)..... only thing left was the outer cap on center yoke...."sis... this would cause the loud banging and the vibration you have"
The GM epoxied ones aren't too bad.... once that crap starts oozing out, they are pretty easy to get out.... especially with a 20 ton press in the back garage.... :BANANA:

boilermaker2 · **Posted:** Thu May 06, 2010 9:00 am

There was another discussion ealier about the type of U-Joint to purchase and the zert/no zert crowd pretty aired it out pretty well.

The Cliff notes of the discussion is that if you will be honest with yourself and declare to the world that you will dilligent keep grease in them, get the ones that will take the grease. If not, get the sealed ones. I'm getting old, but I think that someone commented that the part store they went to, the sealed ones were USA made and of better visual construction and that greasable ones were made in China. Since you moonlight at the part store :idea:

, you may be able to provided some feedback and guidance.

Boilermaker2

yodejt02 · **Posted:** Thu May 06, 2010 6:54 pm

Anyone have any pointers on the removal of the rear driveshaft to replace both ujoints. Or how better way to replace the ujoints other than what the service manual says.

tommudd · **Posted:** Thu May 06, 2010 7:57 pm

Service manual?
I have one here but never read it!
How does it tell you to R&R a driveshaft?

yodejt02 · **Posted:** Thu May 06, 2010 9:04 pm

take everything out from the transfer case back!! Thats how I read it. What threw me off was the cv that connects to the transfer case. There is the standard yoke that connects to the rear diff that I understand how to remove, but there are no bolts that connect the cv portion to the rest of the drive shaft..... I confused and probably just confused everyone else with my bad explanation of the rear drive shaft assembly :roll:

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Thu May 06, 2010 9:36 pm

ya gotta undo the clamp that holds the boot, undo the joint from the rear yoke, push the shaft towards the TC, clear the yoke and pull towards you until the shaft comes free from the output on the TC

or something

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu May 06, 2010 9:45 pm

Sealed u-joints are stronger then greaseable ones,by alot.Greaseable u-joints only last marginally longer if you actually grease them often,at least every 3k if not sooner.If your lifted the rear driveshaft u-joints will wearout faster then a stock KJ,that is fact and life.Your best bet is to use Spicer u-joints,the original and best.

Some good reading...............

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-shaft/index4.html

And I do use greaseable u-joints myself,though they are 1350 u-joints and over twice as strong as the standard 1310's in a KJ.

yodejt02 · **Posted:** Thu May 06, 2010 11:36 pm

alright I think I got it..... now off to the parts store next to get what I need. This little project may have to wait unitl memorial day weekend. But, good news is that my drive time is like 5 minutes to work and back so not a whole lot of wear and tear until then....thanks everybody for the help. :JEEPIN:

Wheel chirp!?

Who is online