For discussion.......RK 7up lift.......

Matt400 · **Posted:** Thu Nov 02, 2006 9:18 pm

RiKMiL wrote:

I did not use the steering recomendations. I remedied all that by lowering the rack down 7.5 inches. If theres specific picks you want lemme know. Ill get them up asap.

I would be curious to see where you lowered the rack to.
Sounds like a good idea as I have read where the drilled knuckle and bracket was one of the poor ideas.

FastTRX · **Posted:** Thu Nov 02, 2006 9:24 pm

HOLY COW!!!!!! :shock:

Never seen one like it. More Pics, Please!!!!!!!!!

BTW...those wheels look pretty sharp.

RiKMiL · **Posted:** Thu Nov 02, 2006 10:57 pm

Most of my mods were labor only with the exception of the drive shafts and slip yoke eliminator. No one is seems to want to produce a S.Y.E. for this goofy t-case. That is one of the hardest things to make because of the type of metal it is. I can see the driveline adding another $1600 to the kit If you use brand new parts which I did not. RK says that they will send you a tom woods sye kit and I did pay for that option but they sent the wrong stuff. The front frive shaft was about a foot too short and the sye wasnt even close. It was tj or yj I called and complained and they sent another diffrent kit out to me which was still wrong, way off. I gave them the vin number and only then did they realize a liberty was indeed not a wrangler... I dont know what they were thinking. All in all if Id known what I know now I could do it faster cheaper and I know where to get the right stuff. The price still remains, drive shafts are expensive. I found used stuff easier to hunt down because I had to carry my out put shaft around sticking it into every yoke I came across. With all that said, it realy does not mater. RK will not build you another KJ kit I dont believe. You can easily make every piece of this kit but the upper a-arms. Theres a funny looking unibal for an upper balljoint. But it could be done, its all .25 plate with lots of bends, nothing too hard. With the money and time Iv spent, I would not recomend this route though. Go with an Atlas t-case and a straight axle. That would be the same money but all easy to do at home. Then youd have gear options. Libertys only get 3.73 or 4.10 unless you send your old ring and pinion to randys to match up. They say theres too many front ends in the kj they diddnt want to guess what I had.

kolesy · **Posted:** Thu Nov 02, 2006 11:23 pm

I thought there was only ever one front end in the KJ????

D30a

FastTRX · **Posted:** Thu Nov 02, 2006 11:32 pm

Not to stray off topic here...but a quick question. Where did you get those wheels? I love them!

RiKMiL · **Posted:** Fri Nov 03, 2006 12:31 am

The wheels are moto metal alloys 4wp has them I believe

desertkj · **Joined:** Mon Jan 30, 2006 8:24 pm **Posts:** 677

I think we're all amazed at your Jeep. I've never seen a functional 7-Up lift before. Out of curiosity, what are you towing with it and how does it do? (I noticed the ball hitch).

broncsrule · **Posted:** Fri Nov 03, 2006 12:51 am

Are you still running open diffs? just wondering.

35's would look great......But exploding Dana's don't sound so great.

DarbyWalters · **Posted:** Fri Nov 03, 2006 12:53 am

I wonder if lowering the steering rack on the KJs that just have 2.5" of lift will help...they tend to wear out on lifted KJs.

RiKMiL · **Posted:** Fri Nov 03, 2006 1:37 am

There is no place to lower the rack other than all the way down. I have ARB's front and rear. I tow atvs, jetski's, and a 22.5' boat. The boat is quite a load (not sure of the weight Its a big sea doo islandia with bathroom and sink). I wont get over 55 or 60 because it wont stop. Luckly I live on the lake and dont take it very far. From what Iv noticed the little truck will pull anything up to 55 mph its getting it over that thats tricky have to Keep it in 3rd. It can be put into 3rd or 5th but theres not a way I'v found to keep it in 4th. Thats a perfect gear, to bad I cant use it. Oh I tried 35 14.5 15 thornbirds for a month or so and they were just to heavy, I feared for the cv joints life. Has anyone priced one of those things?

Jeger · **Posted:** Fri Nov 03, 2006 6:23 am

I just noticed something, check his sig, its a CRD! No wonder you can still pull stuff around like that.

Jeepnut · **Posted:** Fri Nov 03, 2006 8:29 am

Just wondering If I could get some pics of the front suspension, I already have most of the design work done on the lift I am working on but its always nice to look and see what is on the 7 up kit since I could nt find any decent pics that showed the kit or any instructions,

I am working on an adjustable lift kit for the kjs that will hopefully go into production sometime in January or sooner depending on how things progress.

2006KJSPORT4x4 · **Posted:** Fri Nov 03, 2006 10:58 am

Here's another angle I found just by using the link form where his picture is located...

OzLtd · **Posted:** Fri Nov 03, 2006 7:44 pm

wow, fantastic. What brand tyres are those 33''s ? They look great!

I commend you on your lift and what you've done to it, but I just cant get my head around the fact that the IFS still sits close to stock on the ground.
The only real clearance gained was from the 33"s.

Have you and if not are you going to re gear to 4.1's ?

More pics pls !! front on shot at ground height, closer side on ground shot so we can see more sussy & chassis !!

Thanks
Stu

RiKMiL · **Posted:** Fri Nov 03, 2006 9:07 pm

I took 6 pics and you realy cant tell whats going on. here they are anyway. this one shows how much lower the tie rods come out from under the frame.

This one shown how much of the steering shaft is now visible if you look behind the tire.

Front driveshaft cv.

and rear cv

RiKMiL · **Posted:** Fri Nov 03, 2006 9:12 pm

I did gain good ground clearance because my cv angle was negative of what u want. The front diff was lower than the center of the tire on my liberty. Now the cv is angled about 15-20 degrees pointing up towards the diff. I have not measured the ground clearance but maby later.

Tokyojoe · **Posted:** Fri Nov 03, 2006 10:40 pm

In that first picture, it looks like your boot is pushed up against the metal. Could lead to something serious down the road.

OzLtd · **Posted:** Sat Nov 04, 2006 12:14 am

Interesting. So does the front coilovers mount directly to the upper control arm ? I wonder how the load transfer shock would cope with those arms long term.

Is that front main drop cradle made from Aluminium ? or is it Nickel plated laser cut steel ? Its weird how they run those front support arms that make it look like a SFA long arm from a distance! Were they part of the original 7up kit or was that one of your design additions/mods.

Looks good.

Thanks for the pics (but keep them coming, the more the forum can see this the more informed we are!! )

Cheers
Stu

RiKMiL · **Posted:** Sat Nov 04, 2006 5:14 pm

The whole kit was 1/4 plate steel the upper a arms are RK design. Yes the boots re too close to the cradle Id like to find softer rubber ones that will conform to the space these are a lot bigger around tham they have to be. lucky I dont like mudding or my rack would be in trouble. Ill get it fixed soon.

OzLtd · **Posted:** Sat Nov 04, 2006 7:50 pm

RikMil, what is that spacer style thing you've got attached to your driveshaft, then Cardinal joint ? It loos like some sort of trumpet adapter thingy ? lol!!

Did the Driveshaft company do that ?

I'm about to find out this week how they will adapt mine. I want them to put it as close to the T'case output shaft as possible and lengthen the driveshaft.

For discussion.......RK 7up lift.......

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