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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2006 3:18 pm 
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The only reason I gave room for use of the stock hitch, is because the stock hitch is Class rated, whereas mine is "For Recovery Use Only". Basically, mine isn't rated, isn't going to be, and towing is at operators risk. Ted is going to put my integrated hitch to the test on the way to Moab since he is pulling his 4000lb pop up trailor from the 1940's through the Rockies to Moab, so if he makes it to and from Moab with that thing, then I guess it's pretty strong. Getting a hitch tested is expensive, and then it becomes a liability. So, if you don't trust my hitch, you can through your stock hitch back on whenever you need to tow something. Does that make any sense?

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2006 3:32 pm 
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That pretty much what I thought, but wanted some clarification :wink:

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2006 3:34 pm 
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Rock Lizard wrote:
The only reason I gave room for use of the stock hitch, is because the stock hitch is Class rated, whereas mine is "For Recovery Use Only". Basically, mine isn't rated, isn't going to be, and towing is at operators risk. Ted is going to put my integrated hitch to the test on the way to Moab since he is pulling his 4000lb pop up trailor from the 1940's through the Rockies to Moab, so if he makes it to and from Moab with that thing, then I guess it's pretty strong. Getting a hitch tested is expensive, and then it becomes a liability. So, if you don't trust my hitch, you can through your stock hitch back on whenever you need to tow something. Does that make any sense?


I guess my question was mainly aimed at the front bumper more than the rear.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2006 7:33 pm 
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Tell Ted to get rid of the C rations he's been keeping in the 1940's camper so it will be lighter.

If the hitch can survive pulling that thing through the Rockies, it should be pretty darn solid.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2006 8:44 pm 
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Man I just can't stop looking at this thread and those pics. My wife is even digging that rear bumper and really wanting one on her KuJo. How lucky am I that my wife is excited about a KJ bumper?! We are buying them for each other for our anniversary BTW. :D

I'm pretty sure I know the answer to this question and I know I will see it in person soon, but just for S's&G's..... The bumper mounts tie into where the hitch/ gas tank skid mounts on the "frame" rail correct? (i would guess Yes based on what I can see in the pics) Humina Humina!! :twisted:

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2006 9:35 pm 
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SFA doesn't snap at the ball joint
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Hey the trailer is from the 70's not 40's... At least it survived a tornado in Missouri, so I am keeping it regardless of what you all say!! And it only weighs in at about 2000 loaded, and no c rats, only the new style of MRE's :P

And yes it mounts where the skid and factory hitch does.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2006 9:39 pm 
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You better sleep with your head on that rear bumper Ted as I will be looking to steal it from ya!! :twisted:

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2006 9:55 pm 
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SFA doesn't snap at the ball joint
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steal Wally's, it will be at All J soon... Besides, his is the better prototype, closer to production version, mine is one of the first prototypes...

I guess Wally will have to sleep at All J with a shotgun huh...

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2006 10:24 pm 
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1970's? Then you better get those watergate snitches out of that camper......

I almost want to get the bumper also but I will wait for the front bumper.

I just started putting paint on my Skink Sliders. I decided, after long debate, not to get them galvanized. Only due to Moab coming so soon and I didn't want to deal with drilling holes in the sliders for drainage of the liquid metal. They do provide plugs for the holes, but I was getting too itchy to get them put on for Moab. See my other post on this.


The rear bumper: If the front looks as good, I'll be drooling for awhile. Drool cup ready for use (Monty Python skit). I will get it galvanized since no drilling of holes will be required on it.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 15, 2006 10:08 am 
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Hey Ted...did you guys weigh the old bumper/bumper/hitch parts after you took them off? I bet all that stuff together weighs at least 50lbs...which would mean that the new bumper would not add all that much weight.

John
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 15, 2006 11:09 pm 
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SFA doesn't snap at the ball joint
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no, we did not weigh the old stuff. If you have not mounted the hitch, you could tell us what it weighed and we could get a good guess then.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 16, 2006 10:39 am 
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USAFCOP wrote:
no, we did not weigh the old stuff. If you have not mounted the hitch, you could tell us what it weighed and we could get a good guess then.
They have both been on for several weeks now...though the rear one seems to be (guessing here) in the 40-50lb range...course I could just be weak too.

John
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 16, 2006 1:11 pm 
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I would believe 40lbs for the hitch, until we welded on the hitch part of the bumper, it was pretty light for its size! So you are probably right, only adding about 60-70lbs to the back with the tire carrier, I do not count the weight of the tire on the back since most have it on the gate already, the weight will just be shifted up...

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 16, 2006 1:46 pm 
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I KNOW my stock draw-tite hitch weighs more than 40lbs. I took it off to paint it and it weighs much more than the 40lb dumb-bells I do curls with sometimes.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 16, 2006 7:28 pm 
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So if it mounts to the hitch/skid holes in the frame, does that mean we can't use our hitch and the bumper? I already have a hitch and skid. I'm just wondering if it would be possible to have all three mounted to the same point or do I have to give up something.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 16, 2006 7:58 pm 
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My Rocklizard Bumper is suppose to arrive tomorrow..I already have a Hidden Hitch and a Kilby gas tank skid...I will let Rocklizard know if I we find any issues, so he can make any adjustments, I'm sure everything will work out fine...remember these are prototypes, there is bound to be little tweaks that have to be worked on before a production run of these bumpers will ship.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 16, 2006 10:19 pm 
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My "guess" would be to get longer bolts.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2006 9:46 am 
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If you get hit in the rear with this thing is it going to screw everything up? My gosh it would tare the entire frame out.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2006 11:04 am 
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Jeepjeepster wrote:
If you get hit in the rear with this thing is it going to screw everything up? My gosh it would tare the entire frame out.


For sure it will screw up whatever hits you. :shock: The way it is tied into so many points on the unibody, I would guess it should take a hit much better that the stock plastic setup.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2006 2:37 pm 
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I know most people don't like to leave their D-ring shackles or tow hitch balls in when not in use to prevent theft, but from my experience, people who get rear ended that have a hitch and ball mount on fair better than the person who hit them. It's kind of a dirty trick, and in some cases it won't matter, but it can act like a spear that drives through the person behind you's front end, and you may not suffer as much damage. Tons of variables for the physics on this, but I have seen 3 cases where the ball drove straight through a plastic bumper, radiator, and fascia, and did very little damage to the other vehicle.

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