I am thinking the Rock Krawler 3.5 X lift is a nice start

But what about also adding a 1" cradle spacer along with spindles that have the UBJ and tie rod points located 3.5" higher?

My thinking is a 1" cradle drop would effectively keep the CV's at a 2.5" lift change while also being small enough to not cause install headaches.
A different spindle would put the tie rods and upper control arms back where they belong correcting bumpsteer and travel issues.

I would think 265/75R16's would then fit and be the limit of not only the lift but also the front axle. In addition at that size a change of ratio should be considered. Still a very daily drivable lift with added off roadability...just thinking.

_________________
Matt
2003 Sport
In Honor of Our Veterans

The problem...no one produces custom spindles for the liberty. If someone would do that it would open up a whole new world of possibilities.

_________________
It may be that your only purpose in life is to serve as a warning to others.

06 CRD Sport
Built 5/11/06
Jeep Green
Rocklizard diff cover
V6 Airbox

See if you could use a WK/XK spindle.

_________________
LOST # 590
Not Jeepless anymore
97 TJ Sahara, 2.5" OME, SYE + CV driveshaft, JKS discos, some armor, some lights...

Looked into the WK spindle, the ball joint is reveresed, meaning its in the arm, not the spindle. Could see if the lower arms work, but looking at the manual cut, doesn't look hopeful.

The inch idea will work, however expect a lot of bump steer if you can't get the upper arms lower. I was looking a modify my arms to accept a bolt on ball joint this would allow me to drop just the ball joint, keep the arms even, thus no bump steer.

Look at:

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... hp?t=12513

Al

_________________
One Ruby, One Grand Cherokee, One YJ, One disassembled CJ, one Chevy Mason dump, one hotrod IH Pick-up, couple of antique tractors.
Former owner of a 5.5 inch lifted KJ

Hmmm, I once put a 4" lift on a '95 Tacoma that used a drop cradle and eliminated the upper arm, and instead added a strut. Weird setup but it worked well. I believe it was a Trailmaster or something.

_________________
#074642

Do you feel the bumpsteer is more associated with the upper control arms or tie rods not being horizontal?

_________________
Matt
2003 Sport
In Honor of Our Veterans

Since RK produces a super expensive H2 lift I would think maybe they could be swayed into adding a spindle for the KJ

_________________
Matt
2003 Sport
In Honor of Our Veterans

bump steer is all upper control arm and the angle of it. The arm moves in an arc. At rest it should be in the lets say the 9:00 position, as you hit a bump or drop into a hole it will move ever so slightly say to the 8:00 or 10:00 positions. The length viewed by the spindle doesn't really change that much. No raise the KJ, the arm now sits at the 8:00 position, or even thew 7:30 position. The ball joint is now closer to the spring, as the arm moves up into the 9:00 position, as the suspension is cycled, the ball joint moves further outward from the spring. The top of the spindle is pushed outward, pulling on the tie rod end, it wants to pull the tie rod outward also, it doesn't, the tie rod stays essentially static, but the forces from the spindle outward motion pulls the tires inward pivoting around the tie rod end causeing a toe in condtion. This movement is transfered into the steering wheel, as the tire tries to correct the toe in condition, pulling the steering wheel...you get bump steer. The tie rods do it also, but not as bad as the a-arms.

Now that everyone is confused I need to go back to work.

Al

_________________
One Ruby, One Grand Cherokee, One YJ, One disassembled CJ, one Chevy Mason dump, one hotrod IH Pick-up, couple of antique tractors.
Former owner of a 5.5 inch lifted KJ

Weird...I am not envisioning that completely. What I see is with the sever droop of the tie rod it makes it essentially shorter at rest. As the wheel is compressed like in a highway dip that rod gets longer pushing the tire out causing a toe out condition and if on just one wheel would actually steer the vehicle to the left on a drivers dip and right on a passenger side dip.

I do see how the UCA would also get longer in the same dip/scenario but as it and the tie rod travel the same arc the wheel would toe out and not in.

Seems to me what is needed for good highway manners is to have the UCA and tie rod horizontal at rest which would require a custom spindle but should the LCA pivot also be dropped for correction?

_________________
Matt
2003 Sport
In Honor of Our Veterans